Thinking of a new 686

[Rpg]

Neither of the guns you're considering are suitable for carry: they're range guns.

I've always thought Ruger revolvers clunky and unattractive with miserable triggers.

I'm not a fan of Smith's current L frame guns' appearance.

If I was using a handgun for OPs purposes, I'd buy the Smith.

 

[ProCarryNAustin]

Bought a 3 inch 686 plus a couple years ago. Fit and finish are perfect. I prefer the S&W trigger over the Ruger.

 

[ike1518]

I purchased a 686-6 used that was built in 2017, so a newer model. It has been excellent for me and with no issues. I could care less about the internal lock one way or the other. I don't use it so I just ignore it plain and simple. I truly don't understand why people get so worked up over it.

Rugers never fit my hands properly so I always struggled with them, but they just might fit you perfectly.

Good luck!

 

[BabaBlueJay]

I purchased a 686-6 used that was built in 2017, so a newer model. It has been excellent for me and with no issues. I could care less about the internal lock one way or the other. I don't use it so I just ignore it plain and simple. I truly don't understand why people get so worked up over it.

Rugers never fit my hands properly so I always struggled with them, but they just might fit you perfectly.

Good luck!

Three reasons people get worked up over it.

1. It is a symbol of the anti gun movement (which is honestly reason enough)
2. They have malfunctioned (extremely rare) but it has happened.
3. They are ugly.

All that said I'd still take a 686 with the lock over the Ruger. I can't help myself, I won't blame the poor gun for what Smith & Wesson has done to diminish it's good name. The 686 is one of the best handguns on Earth lock or no lock.

 

[ike1518]

Goudy686,

Thank you for your insights. I didn't get into firearms until 2008 so I don't have any knowledge or history with items like the internal lock. Thanks again!

 

[S&W629]

Having a no dash 686...and a Ruger GP100.....it would come down to an inspection....and picking the better of the two....which means having the guns in hand...no on order....

 

[CH4]

To my mind it's a toss up. Shop for the best price. Personally, I'd look for a dash 4 or earlier.

Here are my:

2.5" 686 no dash Lew Horton
2.5" 686-3
2.5" 686-4+

 

[Condemned Saint]

I recently bought a new 686 Plus Performance Center. It is now my favorite revolver. I have zero experience with Ruger revolvers so I can't speak on them much. However, I have heard if you get a Ruger revolver and have it get a trigger job then they are great shooting guns. To me it comes to how much money you can afford since Smith & Wessons usually are very expensive. And if money isn't an issue, I would just buy both.

 

[BabaBlueJay]

Goudy686,

Thank you for your insights. I didn't get into firearms until 2008 so I don't have any knowledge or history with items like the internal lock. Thanks again!

No worries, I did not grow up with guns either, and I am far from an expert on most things gun related. The 686 is the one exception, I fell in love with the platform and have dedicated a lot of time learning about my all-time favorite gun. If you ask me about any other firearm I am a novice, it is just the 686 which I am an expert with.

686 (1980): No dash, Begin regular production.
686-1 (1986): Radius stud package; floating hand.
686-M (1987): Recall by S&W and overstamped to indicate a modification by the factory or warranty station; applies to 686 and 686-1 only.
686-2 (1987): Change hammer nose, bushing and associated parts.
686-3 (1988): New yoke retention system.
1990: 2-1/2" barrel introduced.
686-4 (1993): Change rear sight leaf, drill and tap frame, change extractor, introduce Hogue grips.
1995: Introduce power port barrel.
1995: Introduce 7-shot cylinder with seven flutes in 6" barrel length with round butt frame. Serrated backstrap, smooth trigger, 7-point star extractor, RR front sight, service hammer WO rear sight blade, Hogue grips with S&W logo.
1996: Delete square butt; begin shipments in a foam-filled blue plastic case.
1997: Change thumbpiece; ship with Master trigger lock.
686-5 (1997): Change frame design to eliminate cylinder stop stud; eliminate serrated tangs; change to MIM hammer with floating firing pin, change to MIM trigger, change internal lockwork.
686-6 (2001): Internal hammer and trigger key lock.
686-7 (2002): Performance Center variation in .38 Super.

Here is a list of changes made with each generation for your reference. Mine is a -1 modified (M Stamp) to be a dash 2 technically. The inside of the grips will tell you the year mine is 1987, I was born in 1988 so I was one year off from a birth year gun but I do not get too hung up on that.

The most coveted tend to be the no dash due to being the original and the -4 because it is considered the pinnacle of pre-lock versions. I think they are all great, and even lock versions can be cool, especially the 7 shot ones. Having an extra round of 357 is a phenomenal improvement IMO. The 3 inch 586 pre-lock also tend to be considered pretty rare, I would love to get my hands on one personally as my 4 inch is a little too long for daily carry.

Edit:
Almost forgot to mention the 586 is just the blue version of the 686, and the 3 inch 586 is one of my personal grail guns.

 

[lppd4]

I hope I don't get banned for saying this but, if I could not find a pre lock 686 I might lean towards a new Python. If you can't work with the trigger send it to Mike Hefron he will fix it up for you.

 

[BabaBlueJay]

I hope I don't get banned for saying this but, if I could not find a pre lock 686 I might lean towards a new Python. If you can't work with the trigger send it to Mike Hefron he will fix it up for you.

I do not think personal preference will get you banned, at least I would hope not. The Colt Python is a phenomenal firearm, nothing wrong with liking it over a 686. I personally cannot stand the pull release on Colt Revolvers but even a Smith fan can acknowledge Colt makes some phenomenal firearms.

 

[Bald1]

686 and it ain't even close. Now if you wanted a debate you'd have said S&W or Colt.

 

[Hylander]

686 and it ain't even close. Now if you wanted a debate you'd have said S&W or Colt.

Well ok.
How about the new 686 vs the new Python.
I have one available at the lgs.
Going to start a separate thread.

 

[BabaBlueJay]

Well ok.
How about the new 686 vs the new Python.
I have one available at the lgs.
Going to start a separate thread.

I am starting to think we have the same LGS because mine has a new Python for 1500$ maybe just coincidence.

I've heard the new Python had issues at first but they quickly resolved them. Python is a fantastic gun but if I am going to shell out half a grand more I'd want a classic Blued Python the one my LGS has is stainless.

 

[.38SuperMan]

What answers would you expect to get when you as a group of Smith owners? Go to the Colt forum and ask. Go to the Ruger forum and ask. What do you think the answers will be? You just need to handle each of what you're considering and shoot them if possible. All three are good choices and owners of each will swear by the guns they own.

I'm going to make an alternate solution to your needs. A vintage Smith model 28 or 27 would be an excellent choice. They're available in 6" and built on Smiths toughest frame, the N frame. Both are built to the old standards with hand fitted forged parts not MIM. No lock and the strongest 357 Smith has built. They're old world classics and in my opinion much better built, fitted and finished than the newer Smiths. In addition the increased weight will help with recoil.

 

[Mehutch]

I have lots of 586 and 686's. Here is my 6" 686-4 seven shooter.

 

[lppd4]

What answers would you expect to get when you as a group of Smith owners? Go to the Colt forum and ask. Go to the Ruger forum and ask. What do you think the answers will be? You just need to handle each of what you're considering and shoot them if possible. All three are good choices and owners of each will swear by the guns they own.

I'm going to make an alternate solution to your needs. A vintage Smith model 28 or 27 would be an excellent choice. They're available in 6" and built on Smiths toughest frame, the N frame. Both are built to the old standards with hand fitted forged parts not MIM. No lock and the strongest 357 Smith has built. They're old world classics and in my opinion much better built, fitted and finished than the newer Smiths. In addition the increased weight will help with recoil.

great response

 

[raygixxer89]

To my mind it's a toss up. Shop for the best price. Personally, I'd look for a dash 4 or earlier.

Here are my:

2.5" 686 no dash Lew Horton
2.5" 686-3
2.5" 686-4+

That LH is one of my grail.guns. Stunning piece you have there!!

 

[mikeruns]

I own 3 early L-frames and they are my favorite S&W revolvers. I have a 4" 586-3, a 6" 686-3 and a 4 "686 no dash, all newish old stock. I did fire 12 shots thru the 4" 686. That being said, I would not worry about the lock hole, I do have a model 29 Mountain Gun, which has the lock and it doesn't bother me as much as when I purchased it 10 yrs or so ago. Turns out, that gun is about the tightest most accurate S&W I own. That being said, I would not turn up my nose at a GP100 either....many years ago-probably at least 20 yrs ago, I sold a GP100 to my good friend and I regret losing it although I am happy that he has cherished it these many years now-I do have an SP101 and a blue speed-six, both are Rugers in .357 mag too, and I regard them highly, so go see and shoot for yourself at a shooting range that rents out if possible...cheers and good luck pard!

 

[theprincipal]

I purchased, over the summer, a 686+ 2.5 inch. It had a very good trigger right out of the box. I am thinking of purchasing a 4" as well. Great firearm!