Thoughts on current-production 686+

[Lou_NC]

I'm considering purchasing a new S&W 686+ catalog number 164194 which is offered as part of the S&W Certified Instructor Purchase Program. I can purchase this revolver for $610 shipped to my FFL.

I own a 6" 686-2 that I bought new in 1988. It has always been one of my favorite guns. I would like to acquire a 4" 686 to give my 6" some company.

Two questions:
1) What is the opinion on the quality of the current 686 production compared to older pre-lock 686's? (I'm aware of the MIM and lock differences in current production compared to my 686-2.......but am wondering more about S&W's "overall" quality control these days).

2) What should I expect to pay for a pre-lock 4" 686 in reasonably good condition?

Thanks,
Lou

 

[msinc]

I have a 686+Deluxe and I like it. It shoots good and the quality that I see is not bad. I did two things to mine, I cut a Taylor throat in the barrel and recrowned the muzzle. I shot alot of cast bullets and the Taylor throat doesn't lead up as bad. It will sometimes help accuracy but this gun shoot plenty accurate to start with. The muzzle looked like a mad gorilla tried to cut the crown with a chainsaw so I recut it. Later guns have EDM cut rifling that looks like somebody bead blasted the inside of the bore. It shines up after a few hundred rounds and works fine. All in all, I would by another one...rest of the gun is perfect.

 

[mauiblue]

I own a 686 Plus 4" barrel (MIM with lock) and it is my favorite gun. I can shoot it all day without any fatigue and I am quite accurate with it. I've put over a thousand rounds through it without a hitch (American Eagle and some Winchester ammo).

 

[murphydog]

I have not handled or shot a newer 686, but careful shopping will find you an older 4" 686 in the $450 range. Food for thought.

 

[snubbiefan]

I recently obtained a 4-inch 686-4 (which many consider to be the best of the bunch) for $510. No fees or taxes were involved, so that was OTD.

I had a 6-inch ND, but dumped it after the "M" upgrade. I really prefer the 4-inch....it just seems to feel and handle better and is not so bulky in carry-mode. It may vary from area to area, but the going rate for a pre-lock 686 in about any barrel length in my neck-of-the-woods is $500-$550.

 

[Jeff45]

My preference is for the older no dash, to dash 4 686's. As you know, they have the forged hammer and trigger, hammer firing pin, and no lock. The factory fit and finish are generally well done. And yes, you can pick up an excellent one in my area for $450 - $550. It will take a little homework to fine a nice one but well worth it.

 

[stantheman86]

I find nothing at all wrong with the new S&W's, and the advantage of buying new is that you know that no one has monkeyed with the gun, i.e. kitchen table gunsmith jobs.....

You also get +1 capacity over the older 686's if that's a factor, and the gun will also be supported by the S&W warranty.

A lot of people trash the MIM and IL guns, but I've got a 64-7 with thousands of .38's through it and the gun is tight as a new one, and it shoots as well or better than any of my older Smiths.........of which I have a pretty good number of.

I have a 586-2 made in 1989, and although I don't have a 686 I wouldn't hesitate to buy a new one.

 

[Titegroups]

The older guns will hold their value, you'll lose money on a new one.

 

[18DAI]

One more vote for the 686-4 or earlier 686's. Nicer gun for less money.

The 686-4 and 686-5 were both made in 7-shot versions too. Good luck with your decision! Regards 18DAI

 

[Lou_NC]

Thanks, everyone!

I think I will hold of a few weeks while I start looking for an older (pre-lock) 4" 686. I can always buy the new one through the end of December, the instructor pricing I have is good through 12/31/11.

One more question, though.

I see that there is mention of an "M" factory upgrade/re-work to the 686. What is that? What dash numbers does it apply to, and how would I verify that it has been done to a revolver by looking at it (where is it stamped)?

Is the "M" upgrade something that my 686-2 6" should also have done to it by S&W?

Thanks,
Lou

 

[dentkimterry]

I have a current 686+ with 3" barrel. It is a great shooter and is as accurate as the 4" 686 which I also have. The 3" makes a nice conceal carry weapon also. The 4" I would not carry. $610 is a great price and remember you get a lifetime warranty

 

[murphydog]

The M work only pertained to the 686 and -1; your -2 had the upgraded "hammer nose bushing" (the little round thing through which the firing pin protrudes on the recoil shield).

 

[raveneap]

I bought a new 686-6 P 5 years ago. It's a well made gun and a good shooter. While I agree that the finer details of craftsmanship in the older guns is perhaps a bit better than new ones, I find no problems with the 686 P.

 

[Wayne M]

The only caution on a new one is to look it over carefully for an overindexted barrel and the only problem with that is that it's ugly. I'd buy after examination in the shop rather than ordering it if I could.

 

[snubbiefan]

I also remember a few posts about that issue. Just look down the top of the frame and see if the barrel lines-up.....if it bugs you.

 

[msinc]

I have not handled or shot a newer 686, but careful shopping will find you an older 4" 686 in the $450 range. Food for thought.

Agree 110%...and that $450.00 will get you a more desirable easier to sell one as well.

 

[Dpris]

Have a brand new four-inch 6-shot 686 here, the barrel's slightly over-torqued. Haven't fired it yet, dunno what kind of sight adjustment it'll need.
Denis

 

[stantheman86]

I have two early 581's with canted or "over torqued" barrels, they shoot like a dream so I'm not worried about it......... but canted barrels are not a new thing with S&W or any other revolver maker I'm sure if we broke out the micrometer and measured the barrel alignment of every revolver we own, few if any would be absolutely perfect.

Don't overlook the actions of the new S&W's and the ease of which they can be "tuned".......it's easier to drop in a C&S extended firing pin and lighter Wilson Combat springs and slick up a new S&W than to try to do it with an earlier pin in hammer gun. I did this with my 10-14 and it has one of the slickest DA pulls out of all my wheelguns, with 0 misfire issues. My bone stock 64-7 is a tackdriver, and the DA pull is fantastic.