To Re-Load or Not???
- Thread starter stavman11
- Start date
thanks guys I was reading the new lymans book I got and saw that for semi's it was recommended so I got to get one more die and I havent yet purchased any rounds ,primers or powder yet I'm still getting the basics lol 
JaPes
Member
thanks guys I was reading the new lymans book I got and saw that for semi's it was recommended so I got to get one more die and I havent yet purchased any rounds ,primers or powder yet I'm still getting the basics lol
Oh man are you in for it. There are differences in powder, primers, and projectiles.
Ball, flake, extruded, burn rates, clean/dirty, how easy is it to meter out. Primers...CCI, Winchester, Federal, small/large pistol, rifle, magnum...
I went into sensory overload the first time I went to the powder aisle at a Cabelas.
Bought a pound of W231. Thought I'd be set. Then came a bottle of Unique. Yesterday a bottle of Bullseye.
Lol. There's so much to learn...
JaPes,
Bullseye and Unique have been my primary pistol powders since the late 80s.
Bullseye is my 44 mag target load powder (5.5g behind a 180g LRNFP) gives me about 850fps out of my Model 29. And 11g of Unique behind the same bullet gets me 1575fps out of my Winchester '92. not the cleanest burning powders out there, but both are great for maximizing the amount of loads you get out of a pound of powder.
Bullseye and Unique have been my primary pistol powders since the late 80s.
Bullseye is my 44 mag target load powder (5.5g behind a 180g LRNFP) gives me about 850fps out of my Model 29. And 11g of Unique behind the same bullet gets me 1575fps out of my Winchester '92. not the cleanest burning powders out there, but both are great for maximizing the amount of loads you get out of a pound of powder.
storeyteller
Member
JaPes is right about the sensory overload. After a lot of experimentation, I have yet to find a powder that my sport doesn't like, only powders that my meter doesn't like. I have also shot nearly every .224 bullet made from 50-80grain and the sport loves every one of 'em. Never got too anal about primers as long as they are all the same kind. I am down to 3 rifle powders now and I load for .223, .243, .260 and 30-06.
Also, I don't crimp rifle ammo. When anyone asks why I give them a round and a bullet puller. The smarter ones usually figure it out after about 3 whacks.
Also, I don't crimp rifle ammo. When anyone asks why I give them a round and a bullet puller. The smarter ones usually figure it out after about 3 whacks.
JaPes
Member
That kernel of wisdom is worth it's weight in gold.
I'm working up loads for 9mm using W231 and Unique. The unique fills up the 9mm case. I have yet to try the Bullseye out.
W231 ball powder is much more "dirty" than the Unique. But that doesn't bother me too much. I'm on the range & not a firefight. I get home, I clean the firearm.
I'm staying away from Titegroup. From what I gather, it's a fast burning powder that leaves little margin of error. This newbie reloader isn't ready to mess with that yet.
I've noticed the difference in the speed at which my Hornady auto charge meters out a charge. It speeds through ball powder nice and quick. Unique (sort of flake-ish) takes more time for it to meter out.
That is nuts. LOL.
I used to shoot .45 Colt when I had a Taurus Judge. I was amazed at how soft shooting factory loads were.
You've got to tell us how that monster V-Max projectile shoots, and the felt recoil of your hot loads.
JaPes
Member
I havent yet purchased any rounds ,primers or powder yet I'm still getting the basics lol
Oh yeah....
The first time I went out looking for powder, I tried to find one that was compatible with the dipper that comes with a Lee die set. I looked high & low for VN-350 powder to no avail.
I thought I'd be smart. Everything can be found on the internet! Went home, found the powder, and ran head-first into the haz-mat fee. Coincidentally a few moments later, Grover PM's me to beware of the haz-mat fee when shipping powder.
For me, it's more economical to purchase powder locally. It might be for you too.
Yeah. You need to do a large bulk order for the hazmet fee to be rendered painless. In fact some vendors will pay the hazmet fee if you order just six 8-lb jugs of powder. haha
The 45colt reloads I am doing are not really "hot" they are about 2/3rds the Chamber pressure I can safely shoot. The big difference is the OTC ammo that I can buy are about 1/5th of what my gun is rated for. They are loaded for 100 year old pistols, actually over 100 when you consider how old the caliber is. I loaded some up earlier not quite up to this but running about 1400fps, there is definately a noticeable difference. Cant wait to try these. The charge is 23gr of H110, should be pushing around 2000fps. According to the Hornady H.I.T.S. calculator they should be good for any game animal in North America, and most in Africa LOL!
The more I learn the less I know!!
The more I learn the less I know!!
I am still waiting for all the parts to come in to reload but I just bought 1000 Winchester Bullets 22 Caliber (224 Diameter) 55 Grain Full Metal Jacket Boat Tail from midway and 8 lbs of CFE223 from Grafs as well as 2k CCI # 41 primers. any Idea how many rounds 8 lbs will reload guys?
How many ?
I have not used this powder , but I know that 8 # of my favorite powder for that bullet in 223 will load up 2,333 cartridges !!
I would imagine that would be close for you too.
Chris
I have not used this powder , but I know that 8 # of my favorite powder for that bullet in 223 will load up 2,333 cartridges !!
I would imagine that would be close for you too.
Chris
There are 7000 grains in a pound of powder. Typical 223 loads are in the 26-28gr range so you'll get 2000+ reloads out of 8lbs of powder.
-Bill
philevans
Member
ordered a 8 pound jug of varget, @25gr/load, i'll load ~2240 .223 or half that for .308.
i always loaded plain vanilla velocities as it saves the barrels, started this in 1962 with a .243 which is overbored.
i always loaded plain vanilla velocities as it saves the barrels, started this in 1962 with a .243 which is overbored.
Buffalohunter60
US Veteran
I used to reload alot...everything I shot...never used commercial ammo. I used to shoot lots of .338, .458 and other big bore rounds. The only way i could afford it was to reload...plus you can develope a load that shoots tight groups and experiment..lots of fun. I used to get together with friends and we would cast both rifle and pistol bullets and size and lube them....we had a good set up and would do 5000 357 rounds in a day...4 of us working on it. It was absolute fun and I enjoyed it. I gave away my reloading equipment to my buddies son....I dont shoot the big stuff anymore (sold my 460 S&W) and if I shop..I can buy ammo cheap....but it will never shoot as good as my reloads did.
Now if the bug bites me...I can go to my friends son and reload if I feel like it and have the time. Most of what I shoot today.....is cheap enough so it does not pay for me to reload it....but I will never get the results I could get with custom ammo...its all in what you have time for....the older I get...the simpler I like my life to be....more fun just squeezing the trigger now. But that said...I loved reloading and could never have shot all the rifles I had as much as I did if I did not reload. 100 hornady bullets for 30 cal used to be about $8-$10...how times have changed.
Now if the bug bites me...I can go to my friends son and reload if I feel like it and have the time. Most of what I shoot today.....is cheap enough so it does not pay for me to reload it....but I will never get the results I could get with custom ammo...its all in what you have time for....the older I get...the simpler I like my life to be....more fun just squeezing the trigger now. But that said...I loved reloading and could never have shot all the rifles I had as much as I did if I did not reload. 100 hornady bullets for 30 cal used to be about $8-$10...how times have changed.
I have some really old bullet boxes a friend gave to me that have 30 cal (308) bullets in them, Hornady, Speer and Sierra. I was looking at the price stickers on them $4.25 for 100 Hornady 150gr Spire Points, $8.67 for 100 Speer 130gr HP. There are a couple of boxes in the $3 range. Lord knows how old they are but I am amazed at the prices and the bullets are still just as applicable today.
OP
stavman11
Member
Hey Guys
was wondering about Primers
I have only used CCI 400 primers.... If i Change to a CCI 450 or Winchester 7-1/2 how will that effect my loads
Cant seem to find any CCI 400's localy
Thanks Guys
,...
was wondering about Primers
I have only used CCI 400 primers.... If i Change to a CCI 450 or Winchester 7-1/2 how will that effect my loads
Cant seem to find any CCI 400's localy
Thanks Guys
,...
It's hard to say.Sometimes the groups will open up,sometimes they won't.If you are using a max powder charge,you might want to back off a bit and work your way back up.
I don't even try to buy reloading supplies locally anymore...not with a block of primers (1K) going for $44.50 at my LGS (vs $26 online). If I order 3000 primers I'm saving money online even after paying shipping and hazmet fees.
OP
stavman11
Member
EMERGENCY Averted
Went to Randal's guns and they had Plenty of CCI 400's in stock.... so 2000 more came home with me... had ta drive 6 miles farther.. you say ahh no biggy... its Currently 106deg and 27% humidity out..... Heading BACK into the pool soon
Cabelas did have them for $29.99, raised to$34.99 but no stock.. Randal's had em for $32.99.. ya i pay Tax but still only $.0362 each
Sorry for yer Struggles in the Kommunist State of Kalifornia Bill...
... but guess yer used ta it....
Side note... cant wait ta shoot my Browning Buckmaster Tomorrow... just added a small Reflex to it..... DIALED
...
Went to Randal's guns and they had Plenty of CCI 400's in stock.... so 2000 more came home with me... had ta drive 6 miles farther.. you say ahh no biggy... its Currently 106deg and 27% humidity out..... Heading BACK into the pool soon
Cabelas did have them for $29.99, raised to$34.99 but no stock.. Randal's had em for $32.99.. ya i pay Tax but still only $.0362 each
Sorry for yer Struggles in the Kommunist State of Kalifornia Bill...
... but guess yer used ta it....Side note... cant wait ta shoot my Browning Buckmaster Tomorrow... just added a small Reflex to it..... DIALED
...
OP
stavman11
Member
The best part of my reloading supplies shelf!!
Left to Right:
55gr V-Max .224
155gr A-Max .308
160gr FTX LeveRevolution .308
225gr FTX LeveRevolution .452
Just think of it a pointy nose, boat tailed 30-30 bullet. 200yds Here I Come!!!
Left to Right:
55gr V-Max .224
155gr A-Max .308
160gr FTX LeveRevolution .308
225gr FTX LeveRevolution .452
Just think of it a pointy nose, boat tailed 30-30 bullet. 200yds Here I Come!!!
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Holy Cow batman, I was removing the primers my first batch of rounds when the end ring pulled clean off. I was able to remove the deprimer from the die and tried to use a punch to knock the blasted thing out and succeeded in removing the bottom of the case so I tried a tap and still wouldnt come out, I dont give up so I had a idea I took a can of compressed air and sprayed liquid on the brass and got it real cold and from the top sprayed wd40 and ya know it actually worked . First thing I did was completely clean the die with hoppes removing the oil and brass shards, fortunatly no damage wasdone to the die but it sure was stuck.
. First thing I did was completely clean the die with hoppes removing the oil and brass shards, fortunatly no damage wasdone to the die but it sure was stuck.Holy Cow batman, I was removing the primers my first batch of rounds when the end ring pulled clean off. I was able to remove the deprimer from the die and tried to use a punch to knock the blasted thing out and succeeded in removing the bottom of the case so I tried a tap and still wouldnt come out, I dont give up so I had a idea I took a can of compressed air and sprayed liquid on the brass and got it real cold and from the top sprayed wd40 and ya know it actually worked
I sacrificed a decapping rod to free my one and only (so far) stuck case. Luckily for me the case rim bent and slipped out of the shell holder before the case head could separate. Like you I applied a liberal dose of WD40, but I was able to free the case by unscrewing the decapper from the die, then using just the rod as a punch.
I now know that any bit of binding as I raise the shell into the die means I need to lube the case more. haha
I will never make that mistake again either just in case i did order a new set of dies to have on hand as backups. Watching Burn notice sure saved the day before that I didnt know canned air turned upside down and sprayed on a object would get it very cold just watch you fingers lol
It took me a while to figure out what you were doing with the compressed air mafter reading your post the first time. All I could think was how the heck were you going to blow the stuck case out of the die with the case head torn off. haha
storeyteller
Member
Keep 'em lubed.
Thanks for the compressed air tip... interesting. Have yet to get one stuck, but I have seen someone else do it and learned from his painful experience...I hope.
Thanks for the compressed air tip... interesting. Have yet to get one stuck, but I have seen someone else do it and learned from his painful experience...I hope.
