OP
Rastoff
US Veteran
Does the 15-22 use the same trigger as the regular AR?
Trigger ideas?
- Thread starter Rastoff
- Start date
Yup, it does.
sgtsandman
US Veteran
So, Mother's Polish would be the next step after toothpaste or instead of toothpaste? Just want to be clear.
It may be a bit before I actually get to a trigger job project. Too many irons in the fire at the moment.
OP
Rastoff
US Veteran
I wouldn't use toothpaste at all. I just used Mother's and it seems to have smoothed it out nicely.
rojodiablo
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Start with rubbing compound for auto body scratch removal. It's ideal. 5 minutes light rubbing with a fine emery cloth (Synthetic steel wool) that has a liberal amount of rubbing compound in it. After that, clean the trigger, and then lightly buff for another 2 minutes with just the ultra fine emery cloth. Done.
sgtsandman
US Veteran
Ok, thanks!
robkarrob
Member
This trigger job, as listed in an earlier post works good: Junk Yard Genius.com AR-15/M-16 Pages, page 1.
However you have to test the reset. It may take some grinding or filing on the connector, to get all timed right. I have mine adjusted with a very short pull to break, and an equally short reset. I use the JP light springs, and have a sub 3 pound pull, by adjusting the trigger spring weaker, with no adjustment to the JP hammer spring. This is where I want it, but it is too low for most people. I did polish the sear and hammer face, and even the reset faces, for a smoother reset with the lower pressure trigger spring. Be careful not to take any material off the sear and hammer faces, just smooth/polish them. Also to lube the sear and hammer faces, use a very light coating of anti-seize. This makes a very slick surface and helps reduce the pull weight a few more ounces. I use Permatex brand, #133A, in a small toothpaste type tube, that can be found in auto parts stores. One tube will last forever. It works like the expensive sear lubes. I've tried all kind of lubes, oils, etc., and the anti-seize works best for pressure surfaces.
See post #4 of this thread, for more information regarding the disconnector and reset: http://smith-wessonforum.com/smith-...9217-joe-bob-grip-screw-trigger-adjuster.html
This trigger works great, and is much better than the stock trigger. But it will never match the expensive custom triggers, as they have a different geometry to the sear and hammer releasing angles. With these expensive triggers, the sear only releases the hammer, while with the stock Mil-Spec triggers, the sear continues to pull the hammer back more, as the trigger is pulled back to break.
Bob
However you have to test the reset. It may take some grinding or filing on the connector, to get all timed right. I have mine adjusted with a very short pull to break, and an equally short reset. I use the JP light springs, and have a sub 3 pound pull, by adjusting the trigger spring weaker, with no adjustment to the JP hammer spring. This is where I want it, but it is too low for most people. I did polish the sear and hammer face, and even the reset faces, for a smoother reset with the lower pressure trigger spring. Be careful not to take any material off the sear and hammer faces, just smooth/polish them. Also to lube the sear and hammer faces, use a very light coating of anti-seize. This makes a very slick surface and helps reduce the pull weight a few more ounces. I use Permatex brand, #133A, in a small toothpaste type tube, that can be found in auto parts stores. One tube will last forever. It works like the expensive sear lubes. I've tried all kind of lubes, oils, etc., and the anti-seize works best for pressure surfaces.
See post #4 of this thread, for more information regarding the disconnector and reset: http://smith-wessonforum.com/smith-...9217-joe-bob-grip-screw-trigger-adjuster.html
This trigger works great, and is much better than the stock trigger. But it will never match the expensive custom triggers, as they have a different geometry to the sear and hammer releasing angles. With these expensive triggers, the sear only releases the hammer, while with the stock Mil-Spec triggers, the sear continues to pull the hammer back more, as the trigger is pulled back to break.
Bob
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SmokeStack Lightning
Member
I just dropped in 2 CMC's straight (one 15/22, one "T") and both are breaking @ 2lbs-9oz.
I really like the toe on the end of the trigger lever. Easy to find the same spot on the lever every time.
With the oversized trigger guard on M&P's, even with the straight lever, there room for my BAD and SBR.
The "T's" OE broke at 6lb-11oz and the 15/22 @ 7lb-4oz.
Nice to have consistency between the two weapons, now.
Also used the KNS 'anti walk/rotation' pins on both weapons.
I really like the toe on the end of the trigger lever. Easy to find the same spot on the lever every time.
With the oversized trigger guard on M&P's, even with the straight lever, there room for my BAD and SBR.
The "T's" OE broke at 6lb-11oz and the 15/22 @ 7lb-4oz.
Nice to have consistency between the two weapons, now.
Also used the KNS 'anti walk/rotation' pins on both weapons.
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78Staff
Member
I'm considering the ALG ACT, RRA Match, and Bill Springfield models, all mentioned here in this thread, but haven't decided yet. RRA is 2 stage, the others are based off the mil-spec/stock trigger so 1 stage. Don't need a super light, 4lbs +/- is will probably work fine. Plan is to go with one of these and keep the oem parts as a backup kit. Just have to pick one, I guess.
JaPes
Member
You already know what a single stage is like. Go for the RRA and try something new.
You'll like it.
78Staff
Member
Is there any significance to the instruction card colors? I notice the are listed as "come with blue instruction card..." or "comes with yellow instruction card..." etc.
The chrome version is appearance only or does it have tangible benefit?
Rock River Arms: RRA Trigger Kits
JaPes
Member
The different card colors indicate trigger type: national match, varmint, large pin. I suspect the different colors are used to enhance inventory management and order picking.
As to whether or not the chrome version has any tangible effect, I do not know. I only have experience with the national match and varmint.
I went thru and polished the trigger but didnt cut or bend the spring or chop the back of the hammer off. ill admit it I was scared lol but it really did improve a lot. I don't have any way to gauge the pull weight but it "feels" smoother and lighter. I did also put the set screw in and it has worked great. I would've been scared to do that except your really only cutting a few more threads and some lowers are already fully tapped. I did not buy a kit I went to the hardware and bought a 10 cent set screw. If you don't like it take it out. No harm no foul.
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BadKarmaZeroSix
US Veteran
+1 on RRA 2-stage NM...just installed one on my 300 blk pistol (soon to be sbr) build...love the feel...not as gooad as geisselle ssa-e but much better than base LPK triggers i have used
OP
Rastoff
US Veteran
Today I went shooting for the first time since I modified my trigger. It still has kind of a long pull, but it's quite smooth and much better than it was. Every round fired fine so, my concerns about light strikes are gone.
Couldn't be happier with the results.
Couldn't be happier with the results.
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