TRIGGER OVER-TRAVEL STOP

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Hey, Guys 'n Gals:

Last Dec. I inherited a Smith 66-1 (2 1/2") that has a small metal bar protruding thru a slit in the frame just behind the trigger. Didn't notice it & took it to my favorite gun smith to completely disassemble/clean/lube. Before I even left his facility, he asked if I wanted the trigger stop to remain disengaged. Hell, I never even heard of Smiths having such a thing! Since it was/is going to be a SD gun & I only practice DA, I had him set it up that way (SA no longer will work, but that's fine with me). Is there any where in the 3rd Ed. of the S&W Catalog that discusses this item?

Thanks, Hank M
 
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These are extremely common. Most all target sighted K-frames had them for many years in the 60s-70s-80s era. Not sure when they came in or when they were replaced

At one time, one or more of the screws came loose and most LEO agencies removed the stops completly.

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Today's revolvers still have an overtravel stop. The little rod inside the rebound spring now serves this purpose.
 
The N frames had the rods back in the day. These have to be fitted very precisely in order to work properly. The little cam used on the K frames was discontinued in the early '80's. My 19-5 still has the slot cut in the frame for it. I had several guns with this feature and sort of liked them. Maybe not the best thing for a carry gun, though. Sort of like the internal lock.
 
Hang-Fire
As others have posted the trigger over travel stop, was common on many Smith and Wesson revolvers. There were/have been reports of these working loose and freezing the trigger. Many owners had this feature removed, which is an easy operation.

If your M-66 is to be a self-defense gun, I would suggest having it removed. If this revolver is to be part of your assortment of revolvers and only shot on occasion I would not bother to have the trigger over travel stop removed.

If you do have the over travel stop removed, do save it so you will have a factory complete revolver if you ever wish to sell it.
 
What I don't understand is when you say "SA will no longer work"? Removing a trigger stop has nothing to do with Single Action capability, either the Mod 19 kind (behind the plate screw or the N Frame kind (internal rod in the rebound spring slide).
 
What I don't understand is when you say "SA will no longer work"? Removing a trigger stop has nothing to do with Single Action capability, either the Mod 19 kind (behind the plate screw or the N Frame kind (internal rod in the rebound spring slide).

Maybe the 'smith set the stop to work for DA only as the trigger does not have to go as far back for double action as it does to set it for single action? As I read it, the 'smith left the trigger stop in and just set it for DA only.
 
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What I don't understand is when you say "SA will no longer work"? Removing a trigger stop has nothing to do with Single Action capability

If it's removed, it wouldn't affect the SA, but locking it in place to end over travel in DA mode keeps the hammer from pulling back further if you tried to cock it for a SA shot.
 
Maybe the 'smith set the stop to work for DA only as the trigger does not have to go as far back for double action as it does to set it for single action? As I read it, the 'smith left the trigger stop in and just set it for DA only.

Exactly right!
 
Thank you!

Thank you all very much for your comments, thoughts, & photos. Very enlightening. No one ever did tell me whether there's any info on this item in the 3rd Ed. of the "Smith Catalog".

My respects & have a great week!

Hank M.
 
Don't mean to hijack the OP's thread - but I'm curious if there is a purpose for the trigger stop?

Let me explain; my 36-1 trigger over-travels a bit such that the only mark on the gun is where the trigger comes all the way back and rubs the frame. I've seen pics of other 36-1's that had the exact same issue. So I've never worried about it.

My question is; is there a purpose for the trigger stop to prevent this 'rubbing'?
 
My 19-2 had a trigger stop problem. It rotated around in such a way that it prevented the trigger from fully resetting. Thus, the hammer did not fully go down - barely visible, but prevented the cylinder from opening as the hammer was blocking the bolt. It happened at a range and was a real head-scratcher. Once I figured it out the stop was removed completely to prevent a recurrence.
 
When I buy a gun that has the stop I remove it and the screw, clean and degrease the screw and threaded hole, put a fraction of a drop of blue Loctite on the screw and reinstall the stop being careful to set it for minimum overtravel in both DA and SA modes. Never had any problems with the screw loosening and stop rotating. One does have to be careful with the screw, it is tiny with fine threads and you don't want to twist the head off when snugging it down.
 
Don't mean to hijack the OP's thread - but I'm curious if there is a purpose for the trigger stop?

Let me explain; my 36-1 trigger over-travels a bit such that the only mark on the gun is where the trigger comes all the way back and rubs the frame. I've seen pics of other 36-1's that had the exact same issue. So I've never worried about it.

My question is; is there a purpose for the trigger stop to prevent this 'rubbing'?

The trigger stop is not to prevent "rubbing". It is for over travel of the trigger. Once the hammer releases to come forward, the stop prevents the trigger from being pulled to the rear anymore. This was supposedly to prevent jerking the trigger and keeping the gun on target easier.
 
I've got Smiths both with and without the trigger stops and it really makes little difference to me. I have never had one work loose unintentionally and I leave them in place if there and don't bother adding one if absent from a particular revolver.
 
A trigger stop is a great help in controlling movement of the entire gun at the moment of firing . Look at the High Standards that advertise their triggers break like a piece of glass .,crisp and NO after travel . From my experience the trigger stop can be set for single action without affecting the D.A. mode but NOT reverse.I have installed the rod in the trigger return spring and it is a trial and error to get it to work properly . 1-2 extra swipes with a stone and you can start over with a new rod. It teaches how precise the fitting process must be . If you set it up for D.A.you cant get the hammer to reach the sear to cock in S.A.mode .If fitted properly the rod (stop)will not function if reversed in the spring. the hammer won't reach the sear to engage .
 
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