True Oil application ~ Update 3/7

[hittman77]

I'm trying my hand at re-finishing a mid-80s set of N frame factory target stocks. Stripping them with acetone and have a bottle of Tru Oil for the finish.

What's the best way to apply the Tru Oil? Brush or rub it on with a lint free cloth? 0000 steel wool between coats you think? Do you try to steel wool the checkering or leave it alone?

Any other ideas or suggestions are appreciated.

 

[Bill Bates]

First you will want to thin the TruOil...I prefer turpentine other use mineral spirits at 1 to 1 or maybe a bit thinner.

I rub it in with my hand until the it gets hot. Let the grips dry about 24 hours. Then I find sanding with fine wet dry sand paper lubricated with the thinned TruOil works best. On the first couple of standings when you get kind of slurry of oil and sawdust and it is getting tacky I go back to my bare hand and push the slurry across the grain. That fills the grain well. Again wait 24 hours and sand each coat going with the the grain using progressively finer sand paper lubricated with thinned TruOil. I like to stop at about 1000 grit for a nice satin finish. If you want a high gloss go more costs with using even finer sand paper. After the last coat let the finisher for a couple of months and then I use 0000 rotten stone mixed with mineral oil to polish up the wood.

The key is light thin coats well dried between sanding applications.

 

[bushmaster1313]

I'm trying my hand at re-finishing a mid-80s set of N frame factory target stocks. Stripping them with acetone and have a bottle of Tru Oil for the finish.

What's the best way to apply the Tru Oil? Brush or rub it on with a lint free cloth? 0000 steel wool between coats you think? Do you try to steel wool the checkering or leave it alone?

Any other ideas or suggestions are appreciated.

1) I put half a teaspoon in a a shallow plastic cup. Then I fold up a small piece of white paper towel and use the folded edge to apply a very thin coat. The corner can be used to trace the edge of the checkering. Keep the oil out of the checkering. The oil can be diluted with a couple of drops of clear mineral spirits.

2) Then you let it dry completely and sand with very fine sand paper.

3) Then you wipe it down with a little rubbing alcohol on a paper towel to get rid of the dust.

4) Throw away the Tru-Oil remaining in the cup.

5) Do not leave dirty oily stuff in the basement

6) Repeat 1-5 at least 5 times

 

[Cardboard_killer]

There are about a hundred videos on youtube going over this or other tung-oil based varnishes like tru-oil.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rv5IyHhgtxM[/ame]

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=99VqoL9U22I[/ame]

 

[Cardboard_killer]

Stripping them with acetone and have a bottle of Tru Oil for the finish.

Acetone seems to be what everyone is using, but I recommend using a stripper agent instead, if possible (I use citrus strip). The acetone is hard on the wood (melts plastic, too). Sometimes you have to use it because oil has seeped into the wood, but often you'll just need the surface stuff off.

 

[Rule3]

https://www.birchwoodcasey.com/manage/literature/refinishing-guide-2013.aspx

[ame]https://www.amazon.com/Klean-Strip-SR-72-Premium-Stripper-18-Ounce/dp/B0002YU79S/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1519736049&sr=1-2&keywords=paint+stripper[/ame]

 

[H Richard]

The best and old ancient method of applying Tru Oil is with the naked finger. Dip into the bottle, and get it just a drop or two. Then rub into the wood, don't layer it on the wood. When it is fully covered using the heel of your hand wipe over the entire surface and smooth out the tru oil, then hang in a dust free place to dry. Wait 24 hours, then repeat after a gentle wiping off with 0000 steel wool, and a tack rag. Coat again and wait another 24 hours. Apply 5-6 coats this same way, waiting 24 hours in between each coat. Remember every coat is very thin, you are building up a finish. After the 5-6 coats wait for 7 days, then rub down with a solution of rottenstone mixed with mineral oil to get a "paste", this will knock down the high gloss and make a rich smooth finish. A coat of Renaissance wax every year keeps it that way.

 

[jrm53]

I always used my finger and I have done many rifle, shotgun stocks and S&W grips and they all came out nice. You will be proud of your work. Jeff

 

[Steve912]

5) Do not leave dirty oily stuff in the basement

I'm not familiar with Tru Oil, but rags soaked
with tung oil or linseed oil can spontaneously
combust. Chances may be low, but consequences
could be high--put soaked rags outside to dry, layed flat
in single layer, on non-combustible surface.

 

[JH1951]

You have received excellent advice, so I will not repeat it.
Five or ten coats as noted above will give you stunning results.
I often use plain boiled linseed without the TruOil lacquer component. It takes a bit longer to dry but gives a traditional finish. Often now I will do a few coats of linseed and finish up with TruOil.
Worthy of repeating, although, is what Steve912 mentioned about the rags.
TruOil has Linseed oil as a component, which is notorious for spontaneous combustion. I have been on several fire scenes where spontaneous combustion of linseed laden rags were determined to be the culprit.

 

[DWFAN]

I must be doing something wrong. The only thing I agree with here is H Richards use of a finger.

DW

 

[hittman77]

Holy cow! What a great response ..... thank you all for your help. I'll let you know how it goes.

 

[BC38]

FWIW, I use a 50/50 mix of Tru-oil and boiled linseed oil, and I rub it on with a piece of cotton t-shirt material. Multiple very light coats with 24 hours dry time in between. It doesn't fill the pores and grain of the wood that way and gives a very nice color.

 

[JayFramer]

I use my fingers. Rub until warm, helps. Really shines it.

 

[Bill Raby]

I use a brush on checkering and carving. Always worked out great. Finger does not get it into the low spots.

 

[wundudnee]

I'm not familiar with Tru Oil, but rags soaked
with tung oil or linseed oil can spontaneously
combust. Chances may be low, but consequences
could be high--put soaked rags outside to dry, layed flat
in single layer, on non-combustible surface.

HEED THIS!

I once used linseed oil on some rifle stocks and had used cheese cloth. When finished I just threw the rags into my garage trash can. About two hours later I went back into the garage and it was filled with smoke. The rags were glowing and smoking. I pulled them out of the trash and they instantly broke into heavy flame. I was very fortunate and now any oily rags and oily steel wool go immediately to a outside container. I am a slow learner, but some lessons are so impressive you just don't forget.

 

[hittman77]

Now have 3 coats of Tru Oil on the grips. I'm waiting 24 to 36 hours and using 0000 steel wool and a tack cloth in-between coats.

Amazing to me how far just a couple of drops of goes when applying it with my finger. Hindsite being what it is, my first coat was a little heavy which is why I allowed 48 hours for it to dry. They look better with each coat.

Thanks to all for the advice.

 

[Rule3]

Much beyond 3-4 coats is overkill IMHO.

Yes, the first coat should be thinned 50:50 and allowed to penetrate.

 

[hittman77]

Four coats of Tru Oil using 0000 steel wool in between. I'll get the stuff H Richard recommended and do a final "polish" soon. Thanks to all for your help.