Tula .223 is it as bad as they say?

I'll agree, this thread is about Tula....which was why I commented on your post since you weren't specifying Tula as being inconsistent....just "steel cased ammo".

I was just clarifying for the folks that are new to ARs and steel cased ammo. Hate to see them get the wrong idea and classify all of it into the low grade bucket, so to speak. :)
 
i was using some reloaded hornady vmax for the zeroing.... i ran through clips in quick succession with the wolf and tulas.... i love my gun... its so fun and i havent even bought any accessories for it :D
 
i was using some reloaded hornady vmax for the zeroing.... i ran through clips in quick succession with the wolf and tulas.... i love my gun... its so fun and i havent even bought any accessories for it :D

As someone else once said "once you start you can't stop"
 
I used Tula yesterday to zero my scopes (new Aimpoints), cleaned the chamber, and followed up with some olake City brass. Zeroing with the Tula did not have any ill effects, and the LC brass was no more accurate that the Tula was.
 
I have shot hundreds of rounds of tula/wolf/bear with no ftf/fte issues. The only reason I shoot brass now is because I plan to reload.
 
dont like it at all.too damn dirty,smells funny and if you cant hit a garbage can lid at 100 yds with it ya dont need to use it, but my idea of plinking is differnt than everybody else's,i like to hit what i aim at,i have 2 ar's,they do not like it at all
How small is your garbage can? Tula shoots under 1.5" at 100 yards in my Sport. I have had a couple short stroke. But I'm okay with that for just plinking.
 
Ive had pretty bad luck with it in an AR and a 9mm. Lots of short stroking and inconsistent powder charges. Kudos to those of you who havent encountered these problems. One thing though the ones that do go bang properly have always been pretty accurate.
 
My M&P15 hates it. Won't feed more than one round at a time. Brass case has ZERO issues. I've tried a few times using pmags only and have had no luck. On my previous AR it would feed but then proceed to stick in the chamber, only way to remove it was a cleaning rod. I stay away from the .223. I've had no problems with the 9mm though. Brass cased ammo really isn't that much more expensive, especially at Walmart. I really don't see a need to shoot steel case.
 
As to the ammo, and to the specs, and warranties: ANY SAAMI rated ammunition that is chambered for your gun; wether it be pistol, rifle, or shotgun can be used, and WILL NOT void any warranty.
If you look to new rifle warranties, not one I have read in the last 2 years has any mention of steel cased ammo. Because- they can't really call you on it. It's rated for your gun, PERIOD.
The rifles I have read the warranty on in the last 2 years (I work part time for an FFL NOT ONE of these has any specific recommendation to not use steel case int he instruction manuals, nor in the warranty. It says "Use only high quality ammunition chambered for the firearm you are using it in. Use only SAAMI rated ammunition.".

many do recommend not using steel and some will void warranty. CMMG comes to mind.

"With the growing popularity of the AR-15/M16 family of rifles the demand for ammunition has risen sharply. Unfortunately, this has made quality ammunition hard to find. CMMG recommends using only domestic, commercially manufactured ammunition or high quality surplus NATO specification ammunition.

Using any reloaded ammunition, any steel cased ammunition or Wolf Ammunition VOIDS your Limited Lifetime Warranty. "

There are a few others that void warranties but I dont feel like digging them all up, I was looking at budget AR builds earlier and stumbled across that haha so it was fresh in my mind.
 
Tula Primers

while shooting today I was watching my ammo very closely. I was expecting stuck cases as I was switching between steel and brass. Anyhow I noticed a non-uniformity with the depth of the Tula Ammo primers. Until I found this one:
tulaprimer1.jpg

Tulaprimer2.jpg

Would you have attempted to shoot it or not? I did not.
 
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Ok it was hard to do but I got better pics the others were with my cell phone...ok here they are wish my camera did better.
 
Ok it was hard to do but I got better pics the others were with my cell phone...ok here they are wish my camera did better.

That looks like the new ultra-high-performance square primer that Tula's starting to use. :)
 
I watch what ammo I shoot because of extractor damage(steel case) and squibs. I know this could happen with good factory ammo as well but I'll take my chances with the good stuff. But hey that is just me.
 
Ive had about 750 rounds of everything go through my rifle with cleaning every 200-250 rounds. The last time I went to the range I had an issue with the TulAmmo round gettin stuck in the chamber. It was my last 40 rounds I started havin issues. Turns out it my bolt carrier group got real dirty and started to bind.
 
I had problems with 40 cal tula feeding in my pistol but never tried 223 yet. I had problems with Wolf ammo when I first got my M&P15a about 4 years ago. I primarily shoot brass case PMC or Hotshot that I get at my lgs and its cheaper than getting brass ammo at Walmart .
 
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I have shot Tula & Wolf steel cases and Federal brass case through my M&P 15 with absolutely no issues. I have switched between brands in the same session multiple times and never had a single issue. Everyone needs to make decisions based on their own weapon and not what someone else had happen to them.
 
Ok it was hard to do but I got better pics the others were with my cell phone...ok here they are wish my camera did better.

The primer rotated 90 degrees as it went in. I have had it happen when setting primers in my hand loads. There is a possibility it would ignite when the firing pin struck it....and if so, you would have a lot of gas blow by....like a pierced primer only worse, IMO. Good choice not to shoot it.
 
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Ok we are goin round and round about this stuff. I am new to this ar thing. Have one on the way. Anyway can we agree on an ammo that is still cheap to shoot and works well in most if not all the rifles? I know I have to experiment when my rifle gets here so I won't be buying 1000 rounds or anything until I know it works. I guess the question is where should I start?

thanks
 
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