Two more .380s, two more fails

.380 ammo is the most inconsistent of the major calibers I have seen.

Different power factor. Some more powerful than others. Extractor rims with differing dimensions.

I went through a .380 kick about 10-12 years back. Bought about every small .380 on the market. Most of them choked hard. I also bought thousands upon thousands of dollars worth of expensive (back then) .380 ammo. Like ALL the brands of ammo, from Serbian, to Italian, to American, to Mexican, etc.

Basically, what I learned was many .380 pocket pistols are not reliable. Some of them were. When you do find a good, reliable, .380 pocket pistol, DON'T sell it or get rid of it. Its a gem. I had a Kel-Tec .380 with over 1000 rounds through it that never jammed. I sold it, unfortunately, and spent literally thousands of dollars in my quest to find my next reliable pocket .380. That gun ended up being one of the first Ruger LCP pistols. It currently has over 2000 trouble free, jam free rounds through it. I will never sell it.

I bought a newer LCP with the better trigger and it was a pile of junk that jammed 10 rounds out of 100. So they are not equal. Some work, some don't.

I am a perfectionist in every sense of the word and a maintenance freak, and I overly maintain every single piece of mechanical equipment I own. I can tell you that an LCP recoil spring would be absolutely shot out at 1000 rounds, let alone 2000 rounds. I change them at 500 rounds. Also, the magazine springs take a huge set, compared to any other magazine spring I have ever seen. A one year old magazine spring is literally an inch shorter than a new spring. I change my magazine springs about every year. I also meticulously lube my guns, and make sure that they are "properly" lubricated. Proper means that the lube hasn't evaporated or ran out of the gun.

Basically, what I'm getting at, is it takes a lot of work to keep a small .380 reliable, if you shoot it. I put WAY more care and effort into maintaining my guns than probably 98% of the public. And I typically have good results because of it.

Most folks I see at the range have a dirty, unlubricated/dry gun. If the gun is older, do you think the person inspected the condition of the gun, to include the springs, and repaired/replaced them as necessary? The majority of folks you see at the gun range just do not know how to lubricate and care for semi auto pistols. Which can be a good reason why they tend to jam. Especially the small .380's that have less margin for error.
 
Why do some folks come to a forum looking for answers when there not going to be found here . I stopped buying factory lower priced ammo do to inconsistency ion QC of the years . Our family has 2- bersa 380cc and a thunder plus , 4 years with a P250 380sc along with 2- tcp's and there has have not been a single failure to function yet and practice ammo is home rolled 95gr hi-tek coated rn . These pistols have been used as part of the learning curve for our girls and grand son when about 8 or 9 years old and all serve at some point as a carry option . All pistol are run wet with synthetic 0w20 motor oil . HP ammo is mainly Remington 102gr golden saber or underwoods same bullet standard load .
 
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What else can you tell us?

"Captain in the Marines" tells me he's youngish and probably has never fired a 1911. You lube a 1911, or its mini versions a lot differently than you do the current crop of polymer framed guns and if you try to run one almost dry like you would a Glock, it will fail.
Well, I don't know what else to tell you. The gun wasn't brand new, but well maintained. He told me he had about 300-500 rounds through it.

Also, I must be doing something wrong. I lube my 1911s exactly the same as I do my M&Ps and they both work fine. I don't have it dripping with oil, but it isn't dry either.

If the .380Auto needs to be precision lubed in a very particular way and if not followed will lead to a malfunction, that would just add to my doubts about it being a reliable self-defense tool.

What ammo were they using? and were the failures resulting in a particular magazine or in all of them.
See post #192

All of the failures you describe appear to be failures to go completely into battery, given the lack of any mark on the primer.
I thought so too at first. However, that was not the case. The slide was fully closed and the round fully chambered when we had the fail-to-fire malfunctions.

It should not be doing that, and I suspect a QA issues, regardless of being a Sig.
On this we are in complete agreement.
 
If the .380Auto needs to be precision lubed in a very particular way and if not followed will lead to a malfunction, that would just add to my doubts about it being a reliable self-defense tool.

It doesn't. The answer to your questions:

*Bad shooters
*Bad ammo
 
Funny tread with 205 post . Rastoff worry's about 380 brands and models of pistols many of use have never had problems with and with no cure to be found here for rastoff's problems .
 
It doesn't. The answer to your questions:

*Bad shooters
*Bad ammo
I agree, it shouldn't need to be lubed in a special way.

In the case posted in #192, the fail-to-fire can't be the shooter or ammo. It has to be the gun. The shooter can't induce the firing pin to not hit the primer. It can't be the ammo because the ammo can't prevent the firing pin from hitting the primer. Sure, the primer could be seated too deeply, but that wansn't the case here.
 
I wish I'd never sold my Bersa 383.
Trigger was good. Gun was as reliable as any auto I've owned.
Very comfortable in the hand.
Then again, I have a Makarov 9x18 and a CZ82 9x18.
The Mak has a thinner grip and is better for CC and the CZ has ambi controls and holds 12+1.
Plus, night sights are available for the CZ, AND mine has the best DA pull of ANY DA auto I've owned.
 
I'd kind of like to have a small .380, but I have yet to come across one that meets my personal reliabilty standards and that I'd have confidence in. Getting a reliable one is often hit or miss based on a lot of what I've read.

Many .380's just seem to be inherently unreliable. Maybe it's simply due to the small size and perhaps that combined with less of a recoil pulse to keep the slide cycling reliably on such a small gun that's difficult to get a good grip on. Just a theory.

In a defense situation, I can't count on having a perfect grip like can be established in range conditions, so any gun that requires it is a no-go for me. Carrying one is definitely better than nothing even if it's not the most reliable option, but I just haven't yet found one I consider worth purchasing. Just my perspective, YMMV
 
Last weekend I went to the range to try out a 1965 Walther PPK in .380 acp.

I was using S&B and Aguila Ammo.

The S&B will continue fail to ignite......try it in my Sig Sauer P250, same issue. I think the primers used on this ammo are too hard.

One round in the PPK took 3 strikes to fire, one on the Sig took 4!

I change to Aguila ammunition, both guns fuction perfectly. Other shooters at the range fired both guns using Aguila, no failures.

Bottom line I stick with Aguila for this two guns, I have to try my G-42 with S&B and see if it likes it.
 
Plus, night sights are available for the CZ, AND mine has the best DA pull of ANY DA auto I've owned.

Those Cz are awesome guns. Last week end at the range I fired a CZ P07 (In 380 acp....Mexican Market version). Excellent handgun!
 
I agree, it shouldn't need to be lubed in a special way.

In the case posted in #192, the fail-to-fire can't be the shooter or ammo. It has to be the gun. The shooter can't induce the firing pin to not hit the primer. It can't be the ammo because the ammo can't prevent the firing pin from hitting the primer. Sure, the primer could be seated too deeply, but that wansn't the case here.

Primer seating depth, cartridge headspacing (case mouths, where do they go?). Besides, not like the same thing hasn't happened on other guns.

In your #192, the secret is "failed to go into battery". Could be the gun (dirty chamber, weak recoil spring), could be bad ammo--American Eagle is garbage Federal--very frequently it's shooters squeezing their hands all over a tiny gun.

And again, "experienced" means nothing.

Since your argument is anecdotes, my dad's RM380, I think, has not jammed once yet, even shooting my handloads for it--100-grain plated RNFPs over 2.6 gr of AA#2.
 
.380

Never a FTF problem with my Sig P238 and any ammo. Generally keep it fed with Hornady Critical Defense for CC use. Since I have no intention of engaging in a long distance gunfight I have total confidence in a well placed 2tap at any range that I would engage.
 
Interesting thread. I had an LCP, and my daughter still has one. They shot (shoot) ok. The gun shop where she bought her's told her to use full power hps to avoid functional problems. I thought this was bs, but learned it to be good advice.

My Colt pocket Lite mini 1911 is reasonably accurate and reliable. It will digest about any quality ammunition. It is very reliable with Federal, Speer or Hornady HPs.

As with other caliber guns, some are better than others. Buying cheap is generally not the best way to get a good one.
 

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My original LCP was flawless during several years of pocket carry except it beat the **** out of my trigger finger. I replaced it with an LCP II which I belt carry and it has also proven to be completely reliable. I load it with Precision One 90 grain XTPs and I fire at least one mag on every range trip. Still waiting for the first issue.
 
In your #192, the secret is "failed to go into battery". Could be the gun (dirty chamber, weak recoil spring), could be bad ammo--American Eagle is garbage Federal--very frequently it's shooters squeezing their hands all over a tiny gun.
No, it was fully in battery. I was standing right next to them when this happened. Since I had seen it once, I was watching closely to be sure it was in battery.

As I stated before, the gun was clean and lubed. Yes, I checked.

If it were bad ammo, why was there no mark on it?

Yes, all these malfunctions happen on every other kind of semi-auto. It just seems to happen to the .380Auto with more regularity.

I've said this a bunch of times and will continue, I'm really happy to see that many out there have flawless service from their .380 guns. I've only seen it once that I can recall and that was only 12 rounds.

One day I will buy my own and hopefully I will get the same service many of you claim.
 
I'm really happy to see that many out there have flawless service from their .380 guns. I've only seen it once that I can recall and that was only 12 rounds.

One day I will buy my own and hopefully I will get the same service many of you claim.

There was a member on here awhile back that touted he had hundreds of flawless rounds through his Remington .380, so I followed his posts since I was kind of interested in that particular pistol. One day he puts it up for sale saying it had never been fired. I sent him a message asking if he had more than one and he said that's the only one he ever owned.
 
And then . . . ?

There was a member on here awhile back that touted he had hundreds of flawless rounds through his Remington .380, so I followed his posts since I was kind of interested in that particular pistol. One day he puts it up for sale saying it had never been fired. I sent him a message asking if he had more than one and he said that's the only one he ever owned.
 
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