My 629-2 and two 610's have non-fluted cylinders and I like the way they look.
I say to each his own.
I like them too! 657-2, 627-0, 686-3

My 629-2 and two 610's have non-fluted cylinders and I like the way they look.
I say to each his own.
I have a 627-0 . Are you saying that it does have the upgraded bolt and stop notches ?There is one incident that does show added wear. When the 1st stainless 357 magnum N-frame was introduced in 1989(product code 101024) the stop notches were being peened fairly quickly. Only 278 of the initial engineering release were produced. The bolts were significantly enlarged and the stop notches milled accordingly. This change created the 627-0.
It took the weight of an unfluted N-frame cylinder to show problems. Additionally it needed the mass created by the smaller 357 Magnum chambering. Unfluted cylinders had already appeared in the 44 Magnum a few years earlier.
Today, all N-frames have the larger bolts and stop notches. I have never heard of a problem since.
An unfluted J-frame will probably never exhibit significantly different wear vs. a fluted cylinder over a shooters lifetime.
That is correct. The 627 was dropped after only 278 revolvers produce and a larger bolt and stop notch were the change from 627 to 627-0I have a 627-0 . Are you saying that it does have the upgraded bolt and stop notches ?
There is one incident that does show added wear. When the 1st stainless 357 magnum N-frame was introduced in 1989(product code 101024) the stop notches were being peened fairly quickly. Only 278 of the initial engineering release were produced. The bolts were significantly enlarged and the stop notches milled accordingly. This change created the 627-0.
It took the weight of an unfluted N-frame cylinder to show problems. Additionally it needed the mass created by the smaller 357 Magnum chambering. Unfluted cylinders had already appeared in the 44 Magnum a few years earlier.
Today, all N-frames have the larger bolts and stop notches. I have never heard of a problem since.
An unfluted J-frame will probably never exhibit significantly different wear vs. a fluted cylinder over a shooters lifetime.
On the TV show Shooting USA I saw Jerry M shooting a M&P 327 that was ported with an non- fluted cylinder.
Now, I think this whole issue is over analyzed!
"SPEED" would certainly apply to the 30 mm Vulcan cannon on the Warthog, or the 20 mm Gatling Phalanx, but I really doubt the human hand would notice a difference.
Probably because the guns he builds are not for speed!
I guess this factor would only apply to those that shoot for competition.
Stick with your fluted cylinder on your Model 60. Unfluted cylinders on Smith & Wesson revolvers are just WRONG. I don't care what model you have, they are butt ugly on a modern revolver.
Unfluted cylinders on Smith & Wesson revolvers are just WRONG. I don't care what model you have, they are butt ugly on a modern revolver.
You state your opinion; as a verified FACT !... Any wiggle room ? Say; for instance on a Lew Horton 629 three inch with combat grips ?
If not, I guess I'll chunk mine in the back gully.
Been shooting and collecting a LONG time and have never heard that.
Stick with your fluted cylinder on your Model 60. Unfluted cylinders on Smith & Wesson revolvers are just WRONG. I don't care what model you have, they are butt ugly on a modern revolver.