*UPDATE* HELP! Hammer difficult to fully cock on single action 686-4 4"

[wellthought1]

I bought a used 686-4 4" on gunbroker about two years ago. I shot 18 rounds of American Eagle 158 grain JSP. Almost every time I attempted to fully cock the hammer to fire it in single action the hammer would get stuck at the very end of the cocking cycle forcing me to use extra muscle to get it to fully cock. This problem does not occur on an empty cylinder. The gun is EXTREMELY accurate and I don't want to sell it. I sent it to Smith & Wesson for repair and they charged me $100 to repair it.

Today, nearly two years later, I took it to the range for the first time after getting it back from Smith & Wesson. Guess what? The problem still exists! Today, I shot 12 American Eagle 158 grain JSP, 12 Federal 125 grain JHP, and 12 Hornady 125 grain JHP. All factory loads and the problem exists with all ammo.

What should I do? Send it back to Smith & Wesson? Take it to a local competent gunsmith? Sell it with full disclosure of this problem?

Any ideas?

 

[moosedog]

Take it to a competent gun smith.

 

[armorer951]

Probably oversized (improperly fit) ratchets. The hand has to have the proper clearance to "pass by" the ratchet after the gun has carried up and the cylinder is locked in place. If the ratchets are not properly fit, and this proper clearance has not been provided, the hammer will be very difficult to cock back to the SA cocking notch.

As mentioned above, a competent, trained gunsmith should be able to finish cut the ratchets for you and eliminate the problem.

You can confirm the "long ratchet" condition by opening the cylinder, holding the thumb latch back, and then cocking the gun single action. If the gun cocks normally with the cylinder open, and the thumb latch held back, then it's probably a long ratchet issue.

 

[stansdds]

Since it only happens when rounds are in the cylinder, it is most likely the case heads dragging against the recoil shield and/or firing pin bushing. This could be the result of debris under the extractor, insufficient head spacing, or a firing pin bushing that is not seated flush with the recoil shield or a bur on or around the firing pin bushing or maybe the slot for the hand.

 

[wellthought1]

Probably oversized (improperly fit) ratchets. The hand has to have the proper clearance to "pass by" the ratchet after the gun has carried up and the cylinder is locked in place. If the ratchets are not properly fit, and this proper clearance has not been provided, the hammer will be very difficult to cock back to the SA cocking notch.

As mentioned above, a competent, trained gunsmith should be able to finish cut the ratchets for you and eliminate the problem.

You can confirm the "long ratchet" condition by opening the cylinder, holding the thumb latch back, and then cocking the gun single action. If the gun cocks normally with the cylinder open, and the thumb latch held back, then it's probably a long ratchet issue.

Could this be something you could repair for me; if so, how much would you charge?

 

[armorer951]

If the problem is long ratchets I would be more than happy to fix it for you. The problem is, I gave up my FFL and liability insurance long ago.

I'm now just sort of a "rogue" S&W armorer.....and opinionated old man.

 

[wellthought1]

If the problem is long ratchets I would be more than happy to fix it for you. The problem is, I gave up my FFL and liability insurance long ago.

I'm now just sort of a "rogue" S&W armorer.....and opinionated old man.

LOL! I understand. Thanks anyway. I know a guy where I live that's been working on guns for forty years or so. I'm sure he can repair it. Thanks for your input on the potential problem area! I'll get it repaired soon.

 

[RevolverJim]

I would make sure that everything is nice and clean before taking it to anyone............

 

[wellthought1]

Thanks for the replies. I'm gonna have it repaired soon by a local, competent, gunsmith.

 

[mod29]

Can we assume you have cleaned under the extractor really well?
One of my 29-2s is really sensitive to unburned powder under the extractor, so I bring a cleaning toothbrush to the range with me to occasionally brush that area clean.

 

[wellthought1]

Can we assume you have cleaned under the extractor really well?
One of my 29-2s is really sensitive to unburned powder under the extractor, so I bring a cleaning toothbrush to the range with me to occasionally brush that area clean.

Absolutely clean. I keep my guns in like new condition at all times. Thanks for the input!

 

[wellthought1]

UPDATE:

I took it to a Smith & Wesson gunsmith today. He did all kinds of tests on it and in the end he discovered that the gun has a somewhat short cylinder and zero endshake. He filed on the round end of the yoke that inserts into the frame and took off about 1/1000th. Now, the problem is gone! He could see where the gunsmith at S&W had filed on the firing pin bushing. Apparently, the S&W gunsmith didn't test his work since the problem persisted. I paid my local gunsmith $20 for his 15 minute work. He's such a nice guy for only charging me $20. I'm just glad it's finally repaired! I still can barely notice any endshake though. But, he added just enough.

 

[wellthought1]

I need some opinions. I can determine that the problem is gone simply by loading up with the same ammo and manually cocking in single action on each chamber. I've already cleaned up the gun sparkling clean and I have limited expensive ammo; so, should I just leave it well enough alone for now or is there any reason why I should go shoot it to be sure the problem is gone?

 

[Pine_Worker]

Get some cheap ammo (if that still exists) and shoot the snot out of it. That should tell you if the problem is gone.

 

[steelslaver]

High primers?? Non factory grips. I have seen the hammer spring hit the grip screw. With one fired cases in the gun can you rotate the cylinder so that case goes all the way around smoothly while holding the hammer about 1/3 the way back?

If It only happens with a loaded cylinder it could be a head space problem.