Updated: 627PC trigger job, now getting some light strikes

[Eberhart]

Polished up the insides of my 627 PC, put in a 13 lb rebound spring. Stock main spring. Trigger felt great. If a 13 lb spring felt good, the 12 should feel even better right? It did, but now I am getting light strikes on my CCI primers, maybe 8% to 10% of my reloads. I could go back to the 13 lber, or try Federal primers but I still have a lot of CCIs and the 12 felt so nice. Will an extended Apex firing pin cure my light strikes? Thanks in advance.

 

[armorer951]

Not sure of the reason for your misfire issues, but the weight of the rebound spring does not effect the energy or "strength" of the hammer fall....that is controlled strictly by the mainspring.

 

[UncleEd]

CCI primers are known to be "hard."
Did they go off on a second time around?

Sometimes in reloads the primers are not
as fully seated for a variety of reasons
including slightly dirty pockets. On first
strike the primer is then "seated" and ready
to go on the second strike.

Doesn't hurt on loading primers to bear
down a little extra with pressure from the
loading handle to make sure a full seating

Another factor is the hammer striking from
single action position (usually a bit more
oomph) than from double action, especially
if the DA stroke isn't rigorous.

So, your spring set up may be OK but the
reloading technique needs a bit of finesse.
If I'm wrong, send me the bill for your
extra time.

 

[Eberhart]

Yes Uncle Ed, they will fire on the second hit, everytime. It just seems odd that I didn't have a single issue with a few thousand reloads in this gun til now (with 12 lb spring). Thank you

 

[ankona]

An Apex extended firing pin kit "MIGHT" alleviate light strikes with the emphasis on "might". CCI's are hard primers and may also be the culprit. Also as Uncle Ed mentioned if the primer is not seated fully you can get a light strike which essentially will then full seat the primer which will fire on the second go round. Apex extended firing pins are not expensive and it's worth a shot along with monitoring your primer seating when reloading.

 

[mike campbell]

IMO, ditch the CCI primers. Relegate them to another cartridge for another gun or sell them. Get some Federal primers for your "performance" gun and be happy. I reload for 24 different handguns. I use Feds @ 3.5-4 cents apiece when it counts and Sellier & Bellot from Cabelas @ 2 cents apiece for plinking.

 

[ScottN]

Is the mainspring screw tightened down all the way? Sometimes that little bugger will work it's way out resulting in light strikes.

 

[Eberhart]

Yes ScottN, I checked that twice. Good idea.

 

[Cardboard_killer]

IMO, ditch the CCI primers. Relegate them to another cartridge for another gun or sell them. Get some Federal primers for your "performance" gun and be happy.

Federal primers are the way to go. And check your polishing job to ensure you are as frictionless as possible on the rebound slide.

Personally, I do not like rebound springs lower than 14# as I don't like the feel of the reset. Obviously, I am in a minority.

 

[armorer951]

the "overworked" rebound spring

Well, what a job description. There are alot of things going on during that seemingly "simple" return cycle....all at virtually the same time. All these required operations are the responsibility of this seemingly unimportant little spring.

Swinging on the trigger stud, and held between the frame boss and the boss on the sideplate, as the trigger starts it's spring driven push forward, the SA tail/bevel has to pass down over the DA sear, overcoming the sear's spring resistance and rocking it out of the way......

Meanwhile, the hook at the front of the trigger is overcoming the spring tension of the cylinder stop as it interfaces with the bevel to push the whole cylinder stop forward and out of the way.

At this same time, as the trigger cams forward, it also has to pull the hand back down in the hand slot, and over the next in line ratchet patiently waiting below, and..... this little rebound spring has to overcome the "at rest" portion of the mainspring tension, as it shoves the rebound block back forward to it's position under the rebound seat on the bottom of the hammer.

Not to mention static pressure from the shooter's finger as it takes a ride courtesy of this 17 coil wonder, and the hammer block's free ride upward to it's position under the hammer face. Oh, I forgot to mention the shooting debris, bearing grease, Lubriplate, motor oil, leftover dried Semichrome polish, sandpaper grit, toothpaste, sesame seeds, vasoline, WD40, and other assorted dust bunnies and dirt I've found over the years trying to get in the way.

No love for the lowly rebound slide spring?

Wow, makes me tired just thinking about it.

 

[jaymoore]

One likely suspect for "sudden misfires" after having the sideplate off is a very slightly bent hammer pivot stud. Especially if the action was cycled under full mainspring tension. Check for new rub marks on the sides of the hammer.

 

[BLUEDOT37]

IMO, ditch the CCI primers. Relegate them to another cartridge for another gun or sell them. Get some Federal primers for your "performance" gun...

IMO, that's just silly advice. Any revolver that can't ignite any fresh factory primer has an issue. I've used CCI primers exclusively for years in all my revolvers & pistols, without issues. I go thru about 1000 rounds a month which is more than enough to know there's nothing wrong with CCI primers.

I'd never limit myself to one brand of primer just because it's the only one that works in my revolver. I'd fix what's wrong with it.

.

Will an extended Apex firing pin cure my light strikes?

It might. My 625PC had light strikes right out of the box but my 627PC is running fine with the factory firing pin & mainspring and otherwise only has a Wolff 14# rebound spring with 1-1/2 coils cut-off in it.

I prefer the C&S extra length firing pin over Apex's because it has a rounded nose & is a little longer.

I agree the 12# rebound spring is not likely the cause though.

Have you checked to see if your revolver may have developed some endshake which potentially could be causing your problem now?

Has the strain screw's tip gotten flattened/mushroomed?

.

 

[xuout1]

My go to primer for light trigger pull Smiths are the S&B primers. Cheaper then federals reliable and just as soft.

 

[Eberhart]

Great stuff, thanks a lot for all the suggestions

 

[UncleEd]

Factory specs for Smith & Wesson revolvers
or specs for Ruger revolvers take into account
the possible variances in factory ammo.


When it is suggested as done here to dump a
particular brand or brands of primers,
then it's a clear cut case that the revolvers
have become pure toys, not defensive weapons.

In fact, a number of reloading companies warn
against using Federal primers because of the
greater danger of chain detonation in their
loading machines/tools.

 

[Cardboard_killer]

When it is suggested as done here to dump a particular brand or brands of primers, then it's a clear cut case that the revolvers have become pure toys, not defensive weapons.

They might be both. If the fire arm is 100% reliable with federal ammunition, why couldn't it be a 100% reliable defensive handgun?

The only reason to keep the handgun reliable for ammunition you are never going to use is to satisfy a fantasy where zombies have taken over the world and you don't know where your next bullet is going to come from. And then it becomes a clear cut case of owner delusion.

 

[Eberhart]

My 627 is pure toy for range fun.

 

[Nightowl]

For my money, any gun not specifically set up for competition should be able to shoot any ammo that is inserted into the chamber. Almost always, the problem is the mainspring has been messed with, or the screw is not long enough. On frame mounted firing pins, there is a possibility that the firing pin is too short, or there is some foreign matter around the pin, or that it is broken.

 

[mike campbell]

Silly me.

My 625 steel challenge gun with the buttery 8 lb DA pull that runs 100% on Federal primers won't ignite CCI primers with any reliability. Maybe I should fix it with some Acme springs so it will work with Slovakian primers when my 16,000 Federal primers are gone.

Smith & Wesson certainly can't make a revolver that Acme springs can't fix.

But then, GM doesn't know squat about cars either...my '68 Firebird 400 won't run on 87 octane . Maybe I should just fix what's "wrong" with it.

 

[Eberhart]

Update: As suggested above, the Apex firing pin did not solve the problem. I loaded up some .38s with Federal primers, those all fired no problem. I put the primer cup between the main spring and the strain screw, that also solved the problem. Thanks for all the help.