UPDATED///Hammer block problem/Cured

[GM4spd]

Never encountered an issue with this until now. Older K frame
revolver trying fitment with a wide trigger. Got a lot of help in
prior thread about dressing boss holes in side plate,etc. was a
little help but trigger was still not returning properly. Just to check
I left the block out and reinstalled the side plate now the trigger works fine. I did have another hammer block in parts,tried it and
was almost problem free but still would occasionally hang up. Is there some work you can do on these blocks so they don't cause these type problems? Do not like the idea of leaving it out.

 

[chief38]

You should NEVER leave the Hammer Block out! Inspect it under a magnifying glass to make sure it is not hanging up an any burrs. Also inspect the slot for the Block that is cut into the Side Plate - there may be an obstruction or burr in there as well. Check for dried up oil or grease in the slot too.

 

[Protocall_Design]

I agree - the hammer block should always stay in the gun.

The main problem with these is they can catch on the bottom of the hammer cutout right below the firing pin when they raise back up, as the trigger returns forward, or hang up on the frame on the opposite side of the flag. This is partly dependent on the way the slot was cut in the sideplate and partly on the timing of the action. The solution for this is to radius or chamfer the top corners of the flag on the hammer block and the opposing areas of hammer and frame. This will allow the hammer block to freely slide past those areas as it goes up. You can easily see these catch points if you move the HB up and down with the sideplate off.

The other common reason a hammer block is left out when an action job is done, is the trigger has a rough return with it in, but not with it out. The problem there is roughness in the hole at the bottom where it rides on the rebound slide pin. The HB parts are blanked on a punch press. Any time you do that, there is a broken edge all the way around the part, AND in any holes. The fix for that is to use a needle file and smooth the surface of the 2 long sides of the triangular hole. Then the hammer block will slide smoothly over the rebound pin, and you never know it's there.

 

[armorer951]

Remove some material on both sharp corners at the top of the "flag" at the very top of the hammer block......see post #3 above ^^^^
This will allow the hammer block to properly return to it's position between the hammer and the frame during the trigger return cycle.


top of "flag", unmodified:




modified top edges (stone or file)

 

[GM4spd]

Thanks for all the tips. This gun has the TIGHTEST side plate I've encountered. I'm going to work on the hammer block as suggested. I did
note with the hammer block in place it's a bear to get back on. Also when
tightened with the block in place,the trigger has lateral play in it,not much but should not be there.

 

[Rolandag2]

Hammer block problem

I think you have other issues, I've experienced the same issue when I replaced a trigger and found that even though the triggers are suppose to be drop in they sometimes will cause binding in the hand and ratchet. Your problem is not the hammer block. I would install the trigger and hammer block and trigger rebound slide and rebound spring and back into position without the hand and try cycling the trigger if you don't have any issues with it returning and operating smoothly with the side plate in place and tightened then the issue is in the hand and ratchet binding. I know it doesn't sound possible but try it. Let me know

 

[Protocall_Design]

The hammer block needs to be all the way up to get the sideplate on. The easy fix is to roll the gun over so the grip is up and cylinder and barrel are still on the bench, about 30 degrees. Then gravity will hold the HB in place while you get the sideplate seated.

Just about all my revolvers (S&W) have some hammer and trigger side play. I haven't found that it causes any problems.

 

[GM4spd]

I would install the trigger and hammer block and trigger return spring and back into position without the hand and try cycling the trigger if you don't have any /QUOTE]

That's a great point,I will try that. In addition to length do K frame
hands vary in thickness? If they do I may try and find a hand that
is not as thick.

 

[Protocall_Design]

All the hands vary in thickness, not much in length.

 

[Rolandag2]

Yes, they vary a bit in width(thickness) and length. The hand is fit to the cylinder ratchet, but sometimes the hand in the original trigger will work great but when that hand is put in another trigger there is fitment issues. I have experienced that myself.

 

[Rolandag2]

All the hands vary in thickness, not much in length.

Protocall I have seen in older pre-mim revolvers that the ratchets are never cut in any uniform to other ratchets so even though the hands are a similar in length sometimes it doesn't take much for a trigger to bind if the hand is a bit thinker or longer and binding occurs with the hand and ratchet and will actively bind the trigger from returning especially if the previous owner has cut the rebound spring or it's a lighter aftermarket spring

 

[Protocall_Design]

Yes, every gun is different, and the hand and ratchets have to be correctly fitted to each other. You can't randomly put different parts together and expect them to work without some careful fitting. Sometimes you get lucky, but most often, not lucky, as you say.

 

[GM4spd]

THANKS for all the help. I've stopped the operation to prevent the patient from dying. I did all the helps I got to no avail. I put the OLD trigger back
in COMPLETE with hammer block and it's fine. Would have preferred the
TH and TT on the M53 but hey at least I've got the hammer! Pete

 

[Protocall_Design]

As you can see, long distance gunsmithing can be difficult. Probably every poster here could have fixed that with it on their bench, but it's hard to know what's going on when you can't examine it personally.

 

[armorer951]

Like doing surgery over the phone. Very frustrating for us, and the person with the problem.

 

[GM4spd]

And this is how it looks! Pete

 

[Protocall_Design]

Rare and beautiful artillery piece!

 

[Rolandag2]

And this is how it looks! Pete

Dang, I would have never messed with that beauty, I would have just let it be and enjoyed it. My revolvers are all shooters and none of any real value, even a 3" nickel model 19 that had serious pitting from being left under my father's truck bench seat.

 

[GM4spd]

Well problem finally solved. It was the cylinder stop/bolt. All is well.