Used Revolver Maintenance

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I come from the land of semi autos so I know what needs to be cleaned/re-lubed & what might need to be replaced on them (recoil springs, magazine springs, etc) when buying used. What about revolvers? Picked up a nice 13-3 3" that checked out mechanically but needed a good cleaning -- any & all advice appreciated!


Tiger915
 
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Congratulations! Clean it up! Lubricate, and shoot it. I have never had a Smith, with a problem that required a gun smith. I do not own any that were purchased new. Enjoy it! Bob
 
Well I'm not the adventurous type but I have removed a side plate, sprayed the internals with cleaner and then an all purpose cleaner lubricant and gently blown out the excess and put the side plate back on........once and just did that lately.
Probably isn't the proper way but it does get rid of crude.
 
No need to fix it if it ain't broke. Suggest you give it a good workout and then determine if it's good to go. Things to look out for: over-enthusiastic trigger job may require replacement of hammer/trigger/sear if sufficiently butchered; weak trigger return from using too light of spring or clipping coils off to reduce pull weight; main spring set screw ground too short in attempt to reduce trigger weight may cause light strikes; excessive cylinder gap or endshake (probably requires a gunsmith),worn out hand may fail to carry up (less than full rotation of cylinder) and result in spitting lead out front of cylinder. Those are possibly the more common problems and almost always caused by botched kitchen table work. Original parts,left unmolested, will typically outlast several owners, unless somebody is shooting high volume, like 20K rounds per year. Not a gunsmith, but that's my experience. The lesson is that most guns don't deserve to be messed with at all, and if they have, the best course of action is to reinstall factory parts.
 
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Coming from the land of semi-autos, let me say first, we absolve you of your sins. Revolvers are different. They do not require the self centered attention automatics do. Revolvers work for you. They do not demand your constant attention. They want to protect you. Brush them, oil them, feed them, show them a little love and they will pay you back when the chips are down, guaranteed.
 
any & all advice appreciated!
I shoot revolvers a lot, for a long time, but am not a revolver smith. So if I take the plate off, what exactly am I going to learn, compared to paying an experienced smith to take it apart and inspect each part??? Do you know what you are looking for if you take off the plate?
Therefore, if I buy a used revolver (as I did recently) that had been fired so little (probably less than one box) that it felt and shot like a new one, I cleaned and inspected as I do after shooting, and put it into storage.
On the other hand, I bought a well-used model 66 to set up for IDPA, found it had several wear or modification symptoms (push off, skipping, end shake) so it went to my gunsmith for "the works."

IMHO, taking a revolver apart is somewhat like taking your auto engine apart. Why, unless there is something wrong that whoever takes it apart is qualified to fix, and will recognize a problem part?
 
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I shoot revolvers a lot, for a long time, but am not a revolver smith. So if I take the plate off, what exactly am I going to learn, compared to paying an experienced smith to take it apart and inspect each part??? Do you know what you are looking for if you take off the plate?
Therefore, if I buy a used revolver (as I did recently) that had been fired so little (probably less than one box) that it felt and shot like a new one, I cleaned and inspected as I do after shooting, and put it into storage.
On the other hand, I bought a well-used model 66 to set up for IDPA, found it had several wear or modification symptoms (push off, skipping, end shake) so it went to my gunsmith for "the works."

IMHO, taking a revolver apart is somewhat like taking your auto engine apart. Why, unless there is something wrong that whoever takes it apart is qualified to fix, and will recognize a problem part?

The first time I took the guts out of my 27-2 was for a twofold reason. First was curiosity, to see what makes it tick. Second was to give it a thorough cleaning. I've changed springs and even my hammer and trigger, all without having to resort to a gunsmith. Lucky for me the hammer and trigger replacements just took a fine touchup with a stone to get them running just fine.

With that said though, I believe I will send my 27-2 back to the mothership in the coming year to get a professional tuneup since it will be in my possession for 41 years in late April or May of next year.
 
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Because for those of us that have an appetite for learning, that is how we learn.

I shoot revolvers a lot, for a long time, but am not a revolver smith. So if I take the plate off, what exactly am I going to learn, compared to paying an experienced smith to take it apart and inspect each part??? Do you know what you are looking for if you take off the plate?
Therefore, if I buy a used revolver (as I did recently) that had been fired so little (probably less than one box) that it felt and shot like a new one, I cleaned and inspected as I do after shooting, and put it into storage.
On the other hand, I bought a well-used model 66 to set up for IDPA, found it had several wear or modification symptoms (push off, skipping, end shake) so it went to my gunsmith for "the works."

IMHO, taking a revolver apart is somewhat like taking your auto engine apart. Why, unless there is something wrong that whoever takes it apart is qualified to fix, and will recognize a problem part?
 
I've been shooting S&W revolvers for more than 25 years but it was only this spring that I took the side plate off my 19-3, and removed and cleaned the internals and reassembled. Glad I did, old oil had blackened and turned into gum. I then did my 686 and M 13. I was able to do it as there are some excellent videos on Youtube which walk you through a very simple and fun process. Once you have done it the first time, it's a snap. Here is the video which is in my opinion the best:


[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XDs5U7vUQyQ[/ame]
 
I just received a very worthwhile book from Amazon "Gun Digest Book of the Revolver". I've been shooting revolvers for over 20 years, yet this book was very educational for me (such as, Emergency malfunction clearing).
 
In over 40 years of S&W ownership and shooting I have NEVER taken off a sideplate. When I get a used gun, I take off the stocks and drench the internals with Powder Blaster. Then I use compressed air (Dust Off) to distribute. Once drained and dry, I use Rem Oil or the like in a similar way. Once again I use compressed air to distribute. If the gun is functioning ok when you get it this is all you need to do.
 
I take off the grips, blast gunscrubber into every nook and cranny, and let it dry (doesn't take long). Then I put a drop or two of oil into those same nooks and crannies and work the action. Over the next couple of days any excess oil will ooze out. Wipe it off as needed.

I clean the barrel and cylinder as usual using whatever I happen to have handy.
 
Maintenance

I get lazy sometimes and just blast a lot of PB cleaner in the hammer slot,work the action,let it dry,then dribble some oil in and work the action a bunch.

Yeap:p Blast the innards clean through the hammer slot, up behind the trigger, and through the cylinder stop. Let dry, then drop ( sparingly) good gun oil ( I use Hoppes ) in the same places. I do this to all my shooters a few times a year:D:D:D:D
 
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This thread is close to a year and half old... but since others replied I figured what the heck!

Being a former auto mechanic and a tinkerer in general, I like to take most all my guns apart, new and old, just for the fun of it and to better understand the internal workings in the event a problem arises at some point.

I will offer the usual warning about using the proper screw drivers and not prying off the side plate and also offer a warning that is not mentioned as much... before removing the side plate it is a good idea to back off the mainspring screw so it has just enough tension to keep the spring in place. Also do not dry fire with the side plate off especially if you have left the mainspring at full tension.

With the side plate off there is not proper support for the frame pin the hammer rides on and dry firing with the side plate off and the mainspring at full tension could bend or even break the pin.

You can safely work the action with the side plate off and the mainspring screw backed out so there is very little tension on the spring, just enough to keep it in place.
 
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Some basic armors' skills needed

Some basic skills needed to enhance revolver cleaning include properly removing the side plate and removing the crane and cylinder so that the cylinder yoke may be cleaned and lubed. You'll know when this needs to be done when the cylinder begins to feel like the brakes are on.

To remove sideplate: remove side plate screws and grips. Hold gun horizontally with thumb of weak hand lightly over side plate, whack the frame with a babbit, if you have one, or the handle of a heavy screwdriver. Side plate will pop off. It must not be pried off.

To remove cylinder: remove cylinder retention screw (one of the side plate screws) Open cylinder. With cylinder held in place, remove the crane from both the gun frame and the cylinder simultaneously.
 
Just use common sense when cleaning.

Don't totally disassemble a revolver to "clean" it , unless you can put it back together. It's sometimes not easy . Do NOT be fooled by the U-Tube video showing how it's done.

PB Blaster Cleaner and a spray can of Rem Oil are your friend, clean with PB , let dry and spray lube through the existing holes. Trust Me !
If you remove the side plate there is one part that can / will fall out....it MUST be replaced correctly or the gun will not work. Trust Me !
Gary
 
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