Ed Fowler
Member
In my opinion: That firing pin was too long, should have been corrected when the revolver was fitted up. Or maybe someone "gunsmith" replaced the original firing pin and did not know what he was doing.
Value of 1960 K-17 22LR no dash
- Thread starter johndubya
- Start date
In my opinion: That firing pin was too long, should have been corrected when the revolver was fitted up. Or maybe someone "gunsmith" replaced the original firing pin and did not know what he was doing.
Dry firing is not a good habit to get into as it can and will lead to damage over time. Some guns have it happen before others by design. Always put something like a Snap Cap in there if you have to dry fire any gun especially any 22 cal gun.
What he said.I owned a 1948 K22.The timing was fine.It had dry firing marks right where you'd expect them to be,not in between cylinders,not randomly scattered.
No big deal to hit a fired case again.I would never do so on an empty chamber on any rimfire (in fact,I wouldn't dry fire any caliber,but that's me.I know plenty of you think it perfectly fine)
thingamajig
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Just to ease your mind on this, since the empties don't eject during firing you won't be dry firing it by dropping the trigger on a spent round. The hammer will hit the soft brass of the empty and be none the worse for wear.
I would certainly shoot it, you aren't going to wear out a K22 by shooting it. But I would feed it good stuff, 40 grain lead, no copper jacket (so you won't be tempted to get aggressive with a brush), stuff like Eley Club, Fiocchi 320, Wolf Match Extra, SK Match Pistol, or even Lapua Center-X, the stuff a bullseye shooter would use. There is no problem getting that good .22 ammo, and shooting that will not harm it. Stay away from high velocity stuff. Yes, the ammo is pricey, but with a six shot revolver, you are not going to be burning through vast quantities, treat yourself to the best!
Great photos, beautiful gun. And now we know who's hoarding the Troy Landry CCI ammo.
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My dad left me an early 70's K22 which I love. As a kid, I was with him when he bought it and got to enjoy it with him along with many more handguns. Every time I shoot it, I'm with him though he passed away in 2000. I could care a less about the value of the gun as it's priceless to me. I now enjoy them with my three sons. Shooting guns with my sons (14 through 28 years old) is a special time doing "man" stuff. One of them will end up with it as I plan to map out who gets what before my demise as I have two brothers and dividing up my dad's guns without direction included some slight tension. At the rate it is going, my kids will easily be able to leave it to their kids.
I run mine on Eley rounds but $30/box limits its usage so we savor it and make every round count. We have some newer guns that could be replaced tomorrow that we burn up the cheap rounds through. I treat my old guns like vintage cars...clean, maintain & admire regularly with an occasional Sunday drive. I know my dad would approve and be more than happy its still putting smiles on our faces. I ended up with a '73Colt Woodman Match Target (6") Series 3 that was another one of his favorites which I share with my boys, as well.
Unless I had the only particular model gun left on the planet, a safe queen is worthless to me.
Z
I run mine on Eley rounds but $30/box limits its usage so we savor it and make every round count. We have some newer guns that could be replaced tomorrow that we burn up the cheap rounds through. I treat my old guns like vintage cars...clean, maintain & admire regularly with an occasional Sunday drive. I know my dad would approve and be more than happy its still putting smiles on our faces. I ended up with a '73Colt Woodman Match Target (6") Series 3 that was another one of his favorites which I share with my boys, as well.
Unless I had the only particular model gun left on the planet, a safe queen is worthless to me.
Z
Sebago Son
Member
I congratulate you upon your good fortune "Judge Colt", but my experience is different than yours.
raggededge
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I have a K22 Ser #40XXX made in 1948 and the original box. I estimate that the true value of my gun is around $1000. This was my 17th birthday present from my dad.
Sebago Son
Member
Raggededge, a K-22 from your Dad? I would say that your gun is priceless...
mesaman
Member
Good advice. I have a 17-3 complete with box, swab, brush and screw driver. The bad news, the brown tissue paper is torn. Only shot it 10 or so times. Over the years it has just gotten more difficult to do anything more than take it out look and admire it and put it away. Some lucky grandson is going to get a treasure.
I have to disagree. Rimfire firing pins hit at the edge of the chamber, and without something to cushion the blow, the pin will hit the edge of the chamber and cause a burr. I have a tool designed to fix that, and I've used it numerous times to repair rifles and revolvers that were dry-fired.
FSTJACK
Member
I almost bought a 17 no dash from a private party about a year ago
Upon inspection the cylinder had marks from excessive dry firing.
The marks were on the top center of the cylinder..
The seller said that he sat in front of the TV, DRY FIRING the gun for hours on end.
He said that I should "take a file and just file them out" if I did like the marks.
I passed as he told me had also cut a few springs and some other trick stuff, to make the trigger easier to pull.
That is a very nice booking example you have.
Shoot and enjoy it.
Upon inspection the cylinder had marks from excessive dry firing.
The marks were on the top center of the cylinder..
The seller said that he sat in front of the TV, DRY FIRING the gun for hours on end.
He said that I should "take a file and just file them out" if I did like the marks.
I passed as he told me had also cut a few springs and some other trick stuff, to make the trigger easier to pull.
That is a very nice booking example you have.
Shoot and enjoy it.
I agree. According to design the FP shouldn't contact the cylinder but I've seen enough damaged cylinders that were from factory original guns that indicates FP protrusion must not be checked correctly on every gun before leaving the factory.
IMO, the easy fix is don't dry fire on empty chambers.
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More on difficult opening
One other possibility on the difficulty in opening the cylinder. I have examined a couple of S&W revolvers that were hard to open. Upon investigation I could see that when the cylinder release was pushed forward, the linkage was a tad too short and it wasn't completely bringing the internal rod in the ejector rod flush at the front, so it wasn't completely unlocking the front lock in the underbarrel lug. We had to sort of force the cylinder release forward hard, and push out on the cylinder hard. I think this was fixed by replacing the internal rod inside the ejector rod with one that was slightly longer.
One other possibility on the difficulty in opening the cylinder. I have examined a couple of S&W revolvers that were hard to open. Upon investigation I could see that when the cylinder release was pushed forward, the linkage was a tad too short and it wasn't completely bringing the internal rod in the ejector rod flush at the front, so it wasn't completely unlocking the front lock in the underbarrel lug. We had to sort of force the cylinder release forward hard, and push out on the cylinder hard. I think this was fixed by replacing the internal rod inside the ejector rod with one that was slightly longer.
More on dry firing
As a bullseye shooter I have done a lot of dry firing over the years. As a firearms instructor, I teach students to read the owner's manual to see if it is OK to dry fire a particular gun, but in general one should never dry fire a rimfire gun unless a suitable cushion (snap cap or fired case) is in the chamber. I used to be more casual about this but I learned the hard way, with a broken firing pin in my High Standard 22 at the state pistol championship match! I have also seen peening in too many 22 chambers and on too many firing pins, so I've learned not to take a chance with a good gun--snap caps are cheap, and fired cases are even cheaper! However, with both, it is very important to rotate them to a fresh spot after a couple of hits.
As a bullseye shooter I have done a lot of dry firing over the years. As a firearms instructor, I teach students to read the owner's manual to see if it is OK to dry fire a particular gun, but in general one should never dry fire a rimfire gun unless a suitable cushion (snap cap or fired case) is in the chamber. I used to be more casual about this but I learned the hard way, with a broken firing pin in my High Standard 22 at the state pistol championship match! I have also seen peening in too many 22 chambers and on too many firing pins, so I've learned not to take a chance with a good gun--snap caps are cheap, and fired cases are even cheaper! However, with both, it is very important to rotate them to a fresh spot after a couple of hits.
As has been mentioned on this forum and I'm sure others, the #4x7/8" plastic wall anchors work pretty well for less money. The last I bought at Home Depot (yellow color) were $4 for box of 100.
Maybe not as good as snap caps but lots cheaper, seem to work just fine and take quite a pounding before having to toss.
Maybe not as good as snap caps but lots cheaper, seem to work just fine and take quite a pounding before having to toss.
I bought a cheap used air pistol for dry firing trigger time. One that does not take the air cylinders at all. Just break the barrel once and its loaded. If I need trigger time I get it out instead of ruining one of my good guns. I will never dry fire any gun I own. This way I will never damage any of my firing pins except by normal proper usage.
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