Victory data base

Serial number is SV8099XX....Don't know if this qualifies on the victory database but I figure this one was manufactured late 1945 early 1946.

Walkcubs:

Thanks for the post. To be useful for the Victory Model Database we have to have complete serial numbers. Partial numbers can't be used.

Would you please either post the complete number or PM me with that number? We can then get it inserted in to the Database. Thanks again.
 
Questions

I have a victory... SN#V15292; 38 S&W CTG; UNITED STATES PROPERTY; VEGA SAG CA.; Pics included. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
 

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I have a victory... SN#V15292; 38 S&W CTG; UNITED STATES PROPERTY; VEGA SAG CA.; Pics included. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

A relatively early 1942 British Service Revolver, which went into Australian service. The markings visible in your picture indicate a factory re-work at the Lithgow Small Arms Factory in New South Wales/Australia in 1955. VEGA (Sacramento CA) is the re-importer into the US; their stamp appears on quite a few of these. Your picture shows a strange color for the finish; but that may just be the lighting.

In case you're interested, here is the direct transcription of the stamping:
FTR/MA 55 = Factory Thorough Repair/Munitions Australia 1955

The D (arrow) D is an Australian ownership mark; various letter combinations occur, and according to Pate the exact meaning is unclear.
The crown over a letter-number combination is a military inspection mark and identifies the inspector.
 
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It's parkerized... iPhone camera. Thanks for the help! Any idea on value?

Not much, I'm afraid. The BSR's generally are not in high demand, and any re-work further reduces their attractiveness. Have you checked whether the cylinder was adapted for .38 Special? That happened after the war to a lot of these, especially Australian and New Zealand guns, often without marking it on the gun. Insert a live .38 Special round in one of the chambers; it should get stuck with a quarter inch still sticking out; if it goes all the way in, the chambers were bored out. Makes it more versatile as a shooter, but further reduces collector value. Beyond that, it depends on condition, finish, all-matching serial numbers. Your picture doesn't show enough. Unlikely to be more than the mid-300's in the best case.
 
Serial #s all match. Finish is mediocre I would say... No rust or major scratches, but finish is thinned out in a few areas. Cylinder is not bored out. I wish it was, as I have a 38 special I like. Can/will any old gunsmith make that modification these days?
 
Serial #s all match. Finish is mediocre I would say... No rust or major scratches, but finish is thinned out in a few areas. Cylinder is not bored out. I wish it was, as I have a 38 special I like. Can/will any old gunsmith make that modification these days?

It's a simple job, but will most certainly devalue your revolver significantly. I personally would never recommend rechambering. .38 S&W ammo takes a little searching, but it is available, and one of the big box stores (Cabela's, Gander Mountain, etc.) may have some in stock, or could order it for you. Wal-Mart won't. There is usually some to be found at gun shows. But it's not often cheap - figure on a buck per shot. Best solution is to take up reloading. No problem in making up .38 Special-equivalent handloads for use in solid-frame revolvers. I use .38 Super dies.
 
Serial #s all match. Finish is mediocre I would say... No rust or major scratches, but finish is thinned out in a few areas. Cylinder is not bored out. I wish it was, as I have a 38 special I like. Can/will any old gunsmith make that modification these days?

I totally agree with DWalt. There are enough bored-out ones in circulation already. You might even find a spare cylinder. And while converting your gun is not a difficult operation, I suspect at today's labor rates a gunsmith would cost you not much less than buying another cheap converted gun as a shooter.
 
Walkcubs:

Thanks for the post. To be useful for the Victory Model Database we have to have complete serial numbers. Partial numbers can't be used.

Would you please either post the complete number or PM me with that number? We can then get it inserted in to the Database. Thanks again.

Serial number is 809942
 
My First Victory Model

Hello Victory Model Experts,

After years of collecting S&Ws, I just acquired my first Victory Model.

The Serial Number is V 671289.

It is a 4inch, .38 Special, Marked US Property GHD on the top strap.

It is all original ... finish, grips, etc.

Can anyone advise as to the ship date and where it went ?

Thank You very much,

SA 50
 
The Serial Number is V 671289.

It is a 4inch, .38 Special, Marked US Property GHD on the top strap.

It is all original ... finish, grips, etc.

Can anyone advise as to the ship date and where it went ?

That serial number would place the gun in late summer/early fall of 1944. As for where it went, the topstrap stamping means it's a military contract gun, like the majority of these; only a factory letter could begin to answer that question, but even that would likely only get you to an Army depot or (more likely) a Navy installation somewhere, with little clue as to its further adventures.
 
My first Victory

I recently picked up a victory that can be added to the list, if it is not already on, it is hard to tell where some of these have been. The S/N on this one is V302710 and it has evidently visited Australia.
It has what appears to be the Australian Defense Dept. marks D^D and the FTR/MA53 (assume 1953) and several other markings. It has the US Property and the GHD on the top strap. 5 inch barrel with the black oxide finish and the bore has not been touched, still 38 S&W. Numbers match except the stocks.
It came with a pamphlet and a cleaning rod with the Australian Defense Dept. mark D^D on the rod.
 

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..... The S/N on this one is V302710 and it has evidently visited Australia.
It has what appears to be the Australian Defense Dept. marks D^D and the FTR/MA53 (assume 1953) and several other markings. It has the US Property and the GHD on the top strap. 5 inch barrel with the black oxide finish and the bore has not been touched, still 38 S&W. Numbers match except the stocks.
It came with a pamphlet and a cleaning rod with the Australian Defense Dept. mark D^D on the rod.

You have what seems to be a very nicely refurbished example of a British Service Revolver, a.k.a British Victory model, shipped about May/June 1943 originally, which was re-worked, including most likely a refinish, at the Lithgow Small Arms Factory in Australia in 1953. From your pictures, the finish could be original, but so far all the FTR ones I've come across were refinished. I've never seen one with accessories.
 
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Roached Lend Lease Victory

A few days ago I picked up a very rough old nickle plated Victory. Considering its sad condition I have decided to get it restored. Whats left of the barrel shows weak lend lease markings and I'd like to find out who can resorect this old Victory to its former self.

The barrel at some point in its past has been cut down to 2" and the old round blade front sight was relocated (horrible sight picture). I already ordered a NOS barrel, original slick grips and lanyard loop. Now I need a smith who can repark, remark (the bbl, with serial number and lend lease marks) as it was originally marked, and hopefully not break the bank.

I've owned a model 10 in the past and this was the first Victory model I've seen so I had to jump on it.
 

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Honestly, you'd be better off doing it yourself. You can get some nickel stripper from Brownells. And also a parkerizing kit from the American gunsmithing Institute. That will likely run you about $100 which is less than half of what it will cost you to pay somebody to do it.
 
.....Whats left of the barrel shows weak lend lease markings......

The barrel at some point in its past has been cut down to 2" and the old round blade front sight was relocated (horrible sight picture). I already ordered a NOS barrel, original slick grips and lanyard loop. Now I need a smith who can repark, remark (the bbl, with serial number and lend lease marks) as it was originally marked, .....

For the finish, I'd go with Wiregrassguy's recommendation. No gunsmith is going to be able to replicate the original phosphate finish that S&W used anyway, so it'll be a straight parkerizing job and you might as well do that yourself. You do want to invest in proper installation of the new barrel. And don't worry about any "Lend-lease markings"; there weren't any. The marks on the original barrel were British post-war commercial proofs, and collectors wish the British hadn't done those before surplussing them out and left the guns alone. So those are not only unnecessary, but undesirable.
 
My victory

My victory is v635274, 5" barrel, parkerized finish, lanyard ring cut off, 38 S&W ctg,and houge type rubber stocks. From reading other info on this thread it should have been made in 1944. It appears to have no other significant marks except smith and wesson on left side of barrel, 38 S&W ctg on right, and patents on top. Any insight to where it was delivered and the proper stocks for it. Thanks
 
My victory is v635274, 5" barrel, parkerized finish, lanyard ring cut off, 38 S&W ctg,and houge type rubber stocks. From reading other info on this thread it should have been made in 1944. It appears to have no other significant marks except smith and wesson on left side of barrel, 38 S&W ctg on right, and patents on top. Any insight to where it was delivered and the proper stocks for it. Thanks

No way to know where it was shipped, but ultimately it was sent to someplace in the British military. V635274 indicates probable shipment around July 1944. Proper stocks would be smooth wood round-tops. Look on eBay or maybe SARCO. It should have a "U.S. PROPERTY" stamp on the topstrap.
 
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