Victory data base

"Sadly, was nickel plated and lanyard loop hole filled years ago..both of which I would like to remedy. Great shooter...perfect timing."

That could be considered as throwing good money after bad.
 
"Sadly, was nickel plated and lanyard loop hole filled years ago..both of which I would like to remedy. Great shooter...perfect timing."

That could be considered as throwing good money after bad.

^^^ This.

If it is a good shooter, keep shooting it. Unless you are an at least semi-skilled projects guy and would enjoy tackling this by yourself, a decent refurbishing/refinishing job will likely cost you more than the gun is worth, and not that much less than just buying another shooter-grade Victory with lanyard swivel and original finish intact.
 
Thanks y'all for the info!!

As a Machinist for the past 35+ yrs but now retired, I can easily re-establish the lanyard hole (pin is still in place) and also have connections with a plating facility to strip.
Maybe if stripping results are satisfactory, possibly then cerakote finish to a flat black.
I feel I'd at least like return this piece back to some form of respectability.
Obviously, I don't consider this as an investment.
 
I like your thinking, BillsCamino.

Make the gun what you want it to be so you will appreciate and enjoy it and its history. That, to me, is what owning these things is all about. I've never been one to attempt to fit some "mold" of what I or my possessions should be. I'm the only one I need to make happy.

Good on ya'.

Cheers,

Bob
 
Thanks y'all for the info!!

As a Machinist for the past 35+ yrs but now retired, I can easily re-establish the lanyard hole (pin is still in place) and also have connections with a plating facility to strip.
Maybe if stripping results are satisfactory, possibly then cerakote finish to a flat black.
I feel I'd at least like return this piece back to some form of respectability.
Obviously, I don't consider this as an investment.

That puts things in a different light. I suggest you also get rid of the grips; original Victory stocks are easy to find on ebay or Gunbroker. And the hammer and trigger were originally case-hardened; when you strip the nickel, you might want to either replace them (more expensive option) or leave them in the white (cheaper); the case-hardening will be gone after stripping, but either option will look better than finishing them the same as the rest of the gun, something most refinishers in earlier years unfortunately couldn't resist.
 
Welcome to the forums from the Wiregrass, Bill! You could Parkerize it. That would get it back closer to the original finish. It would look like this:

wiregrassguy-albums-k-frame-guns-picture11418-vgrips-r.jpg
 
Great suggestion and pic Wiregrass...I'll look into that. Thanks

Phosphating it can be a DIY project, several kits are available. Of course, that will not make it original, but at least it will make it look approximately correct at a relatively modest cost after de-nickeling it. One of the spray and bake Teflon finishes would be a second DIY option. Or both. Phosphate makes a superior base coating for applying Teflon, extremely durable and corrosion resistant. I have done several guns that way.
 
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I got a Victory Model recently, and I was wondering if you fine folks could tell me more about it. The serial number is V 359270.The grips appear to be original, smooth wood with the last 4 digits of the serial on the back. The top strap has what looks like an Ordnance bomb stamp, and then"U.S. PROPERTY GHD". The barrel has the patent dates and so on on the top, and is marked as being chambered in "38 S. & W. Special CTG".
 
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I got a Victory Model recently, and I was wondering if you fine folks could tell me more about it. The serial number is V 359270.The grips appear to be original, smooth wood with the last 4 digits of the serial on the back. The top strap has what looks like an Ordnance bomb stamp, and then"U.S. PROPERTY GHD". The barrel has the patent dates and so on on the top, and is marked as being chambered in "38 S. & W. Special CTG".

It sounds like you have an all-original standard US Victory model from mid-1943. It has all the expected standard markings and no unexpected ones. Statistically, it more likely shipped to the Navy, but other military destinations are also possible. A history letter would tell you, although it would get you no further than an Army depot or Navy yard stateside.
 
V 359270

Closest SN I have listed is V3585xx which shipped in 7/43. A factory letter won't tell you much more than that, except it will provide an exact shipping date. And a Navy destination is very probable. The more interesting Victories are those which do not have the U.S. PROPERTY stamp.
 
From an Estate sale

I am new to the gun collecting world, I know I have a S&W Victory model. She's a find from an estate sale, I do not have plans to sell the pistol. I have always wanted a pistol with some history.
Here's what I know:
It has the proof marks from the Birmingham Proof house
BV BP NP
It also is stamped: NOTENGLISHMAKE

The Serial number is: V8552
also the initials: WB *on the buttplate

Here are the pictures any information will be greatly appreciated
 

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Welcome to the forums from the Wiregrass, neighbor! Chances are the cylinder has been reamed out for .38 Special. You can check by trying to load a .38 Special cartridge. If it fully inserts, it has been reamed. That reduces the value. Around here, they sell for ~$200-300 if modified.
 
Victory S&W Info

I have just filled out the S&W Letter of Authenticity Request Form but thought I'd post some info here on my S&W. I received it from my father-in-law who was a WW II veteran and a Corregidor POW. After the war he returned to AD and during an assignment to Spain (Torrejon AB) he acquired this .38 from military surplus sales. Here is the serial # and some images:

Serial V 734131 P

Any details or insight would be appreciated.

Bill R
OKC, OK
 

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I just saw yesterday's post and my Victory does not fit a .38 Special cartridge. I was told by a gun shop that the correct cartridge was a .38 Colt Short.
 
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