Egan99
Just curious how are these demilled or de-activated ?
Just curious how are these demilled or de-activated ?
Victory data base
- Thread starter zonker5
- Start date
Hi Merl67,
The one I own has a "ring" welded inside the cylinder to prevent cartridges being loaded, the barrel is pinned and what I believe is called the hammer nose is missing.
The laws changed several years ago regarding ownership of hand guns here in the UK.
Hope the pictures help.
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The one I own has a "ring" welded inside the cylinder to prevent cartridges being loaded, the barrel is pinned and what I believe is called the hammer nose is missing.
The laws changed several years ago regarding ownership of hand guns here in the UK.
Hope the pictures help.
the horror, the horror........ that is as bad as being neutered...
Egan99
That is sad very sad if you ever come to the USA maybe you could contact some of us and we could take you shooting with one.
That is sad very sad if you ever come to the USA maybe you could contact some of us and we could take you shooting with one.
DWalt
Member
You have what's known as a "Chopped and Bored Victory" which shipped about mid-1943. Literally boatloads of these butchered Victories exist. Little about it is original, and it is not worth much. The chambers have probably been lengthened to accept .38 Special cartridges. It could be a shooter, but will never be collectible.
grizzley30814
Member
I guess my next question would be is it safe to shoot .38 special through it. The cylinder does look like it has been reamed out, the rest of the gun seems to be in good mechanical shape. I had hoped to use it as a woods carry gun mainly for snakes and the like, so there would be no +p or high power rounds only normal lead target loads.
Thanks for all the info not really what I wanted to hear but good to know.
Thanks for all the info not really what I wanted to hear but good to know.
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DWalt
Member
It's probably fine for your purpose. As the rear of the chambers are sloppy (.38 S&W has a slightly larger base diameter than .38 Special), fired cases will usually show a bulge toward the rim. Some have reported case sticking and occasional case ruptures (not really hazardous), but I have not experienced either of those afflictions. It just depends on the individual revolver. Various importers made such modifications back in the 1950s-60s. The purpose was to make them more attractive to U. S. purchasers. They sold in the $25-$35 price range back then. Lee Harvey Oswald allegedly had one, which he used to murder Dallas cop J. D. Tippitt, so you do have sort of a historical story to go with it. Current gun show prices will be around $200, maybe a little more.
grizzley30814
Member
I took the Victory snubbie to the club with me this morning rock hunting with the wife. I took a few minutes and shot several cylinders thru it "168 gr 38sp wadcutters" and as we thought it expanded out the cases towards the rim. Not terribly but definitely enough to notice. I think it will be ok with normal 38 Spl, but I am also going to find some 38 S&W. It does shoot pretty good though, I was tearing up the small 2.5-3 inch sweet gum trunk I was aiming at from about 10 feet. It was shooting a little high maybe an inch but I can adjust for that as long as I am good left to right. She won't be used for distance anyway.
Thanks for all the info.
Thanks for all the info.
Nicksterdemus
Member
I have a pistola in transit that may be a Victory. All I see on the outside from the pics are .38 S&W on the right brl, Smith & Wesson on the left, Made in USA right side frame & S&W trademark. There's some type of concocted raised rib barrel that might have been an aftermarket add-on or an individual's customizing. As such any roll marks on top are hidden.
It does have the military P proof behind the top right frame window on the left side of the frame. Did Victorys come w/smooth or serrated trigger?[via PM I learned that the serrated trigger came on the Victory] As well when making inquires unto the SN I didn't ask if any letter(s) proceeded the numbers. I await delivery for inspection.[Naturally it was booked as V670313]
Here's the link if you care to take a peek. I'll post more when it comes in later in the week.
http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-hand-ejectors-1896-1961/379291-pre-mod-10-38-s- w.html
Read through the thread taking notes.
"The P-proof markings on the upper left frame don't begin to show up on Navy-shipped Victory Models until about January, 1944."
Speculation that mine might be a Pre-Victory isn't looking well.[No way & in using the above quote did not intend to imply that this was a Navy Victory]
Here's the gist of the modded Victory.
Left side of barrel has SMITH & WESSON whilst the right side uses smaller type and a bit of a different ampersand 38 S. & W. CTG and both ends of this barrel roll mark contains three marks. Two horizontal flanked by a vertical that looks sort of like a T sideways.[seems consistent w/other 38 S&W roll marks, no 38/200] Cannot see the top due to the add-on barrel rib. Barrel pin ends are ground flat w/frame & I cannot see it w/o a loupe. B/C gap .008.
Extractor star/cylinder has one dowel pin. No space for another. [Pg 139 SCSW 38 M&P 1905 2nd change, "Two dowel pins are generally found in the star extractor." 1906-1909]
Was this normal during Victory production to use just one dowel pin?
If not might this have been NOS inventory pressed into service?
Was it limited to the .38 S&W?
SN V670313 P on the barrel flat & cylinder face. 670313 behind the star. Frame cut-out 32033 and that has a U above the numbers. Yoke & inside of sideplate has 32033. Under the stocks on the left side is U, V, 1, & a little c inside of a recessed circle that looks a lot like a copyright stamp. Right side has an upside down 4 and a 6 and the lanyard hole in the bottom of the gripframe apparently has been plugged.
ETA: along w/some explanation above in brackets [ ] I can photograph any point of interest in macro using 3X [non-digital] zoom coupled w/stacked 4+, 2+, 1+ 55mm macro lenses. Should there be an interest in anything particular. I believe that is still only 7X, but I can back up a bit due to the zoom allowing more light and a greater viewing/image area. I'm not much of a shutterbug mentally though I enjoy the detail
It does have the military P proof behind the top right frame window on the left side of the frame. Did Victorys come w/smooth or serrated trigger?[via PM I learned that the serrated trigger came on the Victory] As well when making inquires unto the SN I didn't ask if any letter(s) proceeded the numbers. I await delivery for inspection.[Naturally it was booked as V670313]
Here's the link if you care to take a peek. I'll post more when it comes in later in the week.
http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-hand-ejectors-1896-1961/379291-pre-mod-10-38-s- w.html
Read through the thread taking notes.
"The P-proof markings on the upper left frame don't begin to show up on Navy-shipped Victory Models until about January, 1944."
Speculation that mine might be a Pre-Victory isn't looking well.[No way & in using the above quote did not intend to imply that this was a Navy Victory]
Here's the gist of the modded Victory.
Left side of barrel has SMITH & WESSON whilst the right side uses smaller type and a bit of a different ampersand 38 S. & W. CTG and both ends of this barrel roll mark contains three marks. Two horizontal flanked by a vertical that looks sort of like a T sideways.[seems consistent w/other 38 S&W roll marks, no 38/200] Cannot see the top due to the add-on barrel rib. Barrel pin ends are ground flat w/frame & I cannot see it w/o a loupe. B/C gap .008.
Extractor star/cylinder has one dowel pin. No space for another. [Pg 139 SCSW 38 M&P 1905 2nd change, "Two dowel pins are generally found in the star extractor." 1906-1909]
Was this normal during Victory production to use just one dowel pin?
If not might this have been NOS inventory pressed into service?
Was it limited to the .38 S&W?
SN V670313 P on the barrel flat & cylinder face. 670313 behind the star. Frame cut-out 32033 and that has a U above the numbers. Yoke & inside of sideplate has 32033. Under the stocks on the left side is U, V, 1, & a little c inside of a recessed circle that looks a lot like a copyright stamp. Right side has an upside down 4 and a 6 and the lanyard hole in the bottom of the gripframe apparently has been plugged.
ETA: along w/some explanation above in brackets [ ] I can photograph any point of interest in macro using 3X [non-digital] zoom coupled w/stacked 4+, 2+, 1+ 55mm macro lenses. Should there be an interest in anything particular. I believe that is still only 7X, but I can back up a bit due to the zoom allowing more light and a greater viewing/image area. I'm not much of a shutterbug mentally though I enjoy the detail
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Nicksterdemus
Member
LOBO
Member
Pre-Victory Canadian model, 6" barrel, serial number 735342
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A Victory caught my eye at the gun shop today because it had a $1500 price tag on it. It had been stamped 38 special and had this marking A followed by an up arrow and then the letter F. It was a 5 digit sn#. No V. Marked US Property with G.H.D. on it. That's all I can remember about it.
DWalt
Member
$1500? That's a new high for me, by far. That's way beyond any sane bargaining range. A 5 digit SN with no V-prefix cannot be a Victory or a pre-Victory. They started about SN 685000 for the first British order in 1940, and they weren't in .38 Special. Anyway, best to avoid even thinking about buying that one.
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backemin
Member
Victory found at Grandpas house.
Hello all... I recently got a Victory from my Grandfathers attic. Don't know much about it. 38 S&W possibly modified to 38Spl. Not sure. How can I tell? Also double action does not work. Can anyone start to educate me on this gun and it's issue? Thanks in advance.
Hello all... I recently got a Victory from my Grandfathers attic. Don't know much about it. 38 S&W possibly modified to 38Spl. Not sure. How can I tell? Also double action does not work. Can anyone start to educate me on this gun and it's issue? Thanks in advance.
MrTrolleyguy
US Veteran
I have a Victory that I have posted elsewhere on the sight. Please add it to the data base if someone has not added it already.
The serial number is V294481. The cylinder does not match. It is not, unfortunately, chamber in 38 S&W. I don't know what caliber but would like to find out and acquire at least one box of ammo.
I can't find the photos of the right side with the close ups of the various markings. I may reshoot and add later
The serial number is V294481. The cylinder does not match. It is not, unfortunately, chamber in 38 S&W. I don't know what caliber but would like to find out and acquire at least one box of ammo.
I can't find the photos of the right side with the close ups of the various markings. I may reshoot and add later
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DWalt
Member
At least the frame would date from about May 1943. It appears to have a 5" barrel, and if so, it would have originally been a British .38/200 chambered in .38 S&W. Measure the barrel length to be sure (front face of cylinder to muzzle). ".38 S&W CTG" should be stamped on the barrel if it is a .38/200. See if a .38 Special cartridge can be completely chambered. If not, the chambers have not been bored. A replacement cylinder evidenced by a different SN on the rear face would indicate it is a parts gun, but we don't know if it is chambered in .38 S&W or .38 Special. I would not be surprised to find that it had been re-Parkerized also.
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DWalt
Member
It's a cut barrel .38/200, ca. May 1943. Stocks are either non original, or original stocks which have later been checkered. The front sight is a later addition. Original front sights were nothing like that. Definitely has been refinished. The other question unanswered is has the cylinder been modified to accept .38 Special ammunition? Regardless, it is not original and non-collectible. It might bring $250-$300 on the high side in a private sale.
backemin
Member
Dwalt: Thanks for the info..tried a 38 spl and yes it's been modified. Any thoughts on the issue with dbl action? Looking at it, seems like hammer goes too far forward and sear can't grab properly. Any good gunsmiths have a suggestion?? I realize this gun is no prize but because it was my grandfathers it has some personal value and would like to get it functioning properly. Thanks again!!!!
DWalt
Member
I can't tell you exactly what the problem is. However, it's not too difficult to pop off the sideplate and take a close look at the mechanism. Disassembly is not difficult, but the simple fabrication of one tool helps greatly. There are disassembly videos on YouTube you can follow, and various internet sites which will provide the parts drawings and the steps involved. The internet is your friend. Only two rules to keep in mind - Use a proper screwdriver to fit the sideplate screw slots tightly, and, NEVER attempt to pry off the sideplate. Tapping on the opposite side of the frame with a hammer handle or plastic hammer is all that's required. The interior could simply be gunked up with dried oil, and with the sideplate removed, blasting everything well with a spray can of carb cleaner or brake cleaner will usually clean everything well. That may also be the problem. Don't be afraid to try to figure out the problem and fix it yourself - it's just not that mechanically challenging. Parts are usually available, but you probably won't need anything.
