Wanted info on .357

[Brassbullets1]

I took another look, I did find the serial number also on the cly. It is on the
Shell insert side. It's very small. I can't
find a n or b. I have a 10x head set in my shop, I will look again tomarrow.
Thank to everyone for the info.

 

[Brassbullets1]

By the way the cly # matches the others.

 

[Nightowl]

That's great!! I'm glad it was there and I just didn't see it. That makes it even better. I would carefully hand rub that with some Flitz or Semichrome to make it look a little better. Not much, just sorta clean it up a bit.

 

[handejector]

You have a great old gun there. With what I can see in the pics, the nickel looks original.
You should DEFINITELY get a letter, and DEFINITELY have the SWHF search for more records after you get the letter.
AND- don't worry about the grips. Those old jigged bone grips have been on it a long time and they look fabulous.

 

[quinn]

You have a great old gun there. With what I can see in the pics, the nickel looks original.
You should DEFINITELY get a letter, and DEFINITELY have the SWHF search for more records after you get the letter.
AND- don't worry about the grips. Those old jigged bone grips have been on it a long time and they look fabulous.

What that man said! You have the real deal!

 

[RKmesa]

That is a great gun and if it is original nickel, it is fairly uncommon. I only know of two Non RMs that letter as being shipped with a nickel finish. Here is one that I used to own. Note that a "B" in the extractor rod shroud was ground off and an "N" on the grip frame overstamped a "B":

 

[Brassbullets1]

If someone wants to let me email them the new pics, I removed grips, and cleaned gun. I don't fool with revolers or collect them. My terminology isnt correct and I'm not going to take time to learn. I shoot and collect mil. Rifles, and shoot alot.
Reloading has been a side business of mine, I have pulled a trigger on more guns than you could imagine, but I found on another thread, someone complaining about my terminology.
I seen where everyone on hear argues about what's correct. If someone wants to take pics, that's great, if not I will be gone.
I appreciate what I have learned so far. I knew it was 1 of the first few made around 40 or sooner. I came on here for you'll experts
Thanks

 

[Brassbullets1]

I used a 10x headset today.
There was a S on left side under grips.
The right side didnt have a b or n.
There are a. 4. what appears to be a U
And a K at bottom of grips near the pin that holds grips in place.
The serial number
Is. 62004.

 

[Brassbullets1]

That at bottom looks like its been double stamped for sure. I think one of the pics shows it. I emailed them to a guy he should be posting them.
Thanks

 

[Jack Flash]

... My terminology isnt correct and I'm not going to take time to learn. ... I found on another thread, someone complaining about my terminology.
I seen where everyone on hear argues about what's correct. If someone wants to take pics, that's great, if not I will be gone.
...

Your terminology is just fine. Don't take what is said here personally. Even on this site you sometimes run into Beavis's best friend.

I learned a lot from your post and I'm sure people here loved seeing that fine revolver. I couldn't afford it personally, but I hope you will keep us posted on it.

 

[murphydog]

Here are the extra photos from the OP.

 

[Brassbullets1]

Thanks for posting pics

 

[Brassbullets1]

Ok, now that I know what to look for the B where the ejector rod goes, has been ground away. It's very fain, ng it you can make out where the B was.

 

[Brassbullets1]

I really appreciate all the info. My friend will be happy.
What is the process getting it certified by S&W. I would assume the gun would have to be shipped to them?
Does anyone know in a rough figure what it might be worth?

 

[murphydog]

Sorry, missed the 6th photo.

 

[RKmesa]

Here's the second page of the letter for the Nickel Non RM I posted above...

I think the OP's gun will letter as a nickel Non RM based on the stamping...

 

[RKmesa]

Just making the pertinent photos a little larger...

Here are the extra photos from the OP.

 

[RKmesa]

...What is the process getting it certified by S&W. I would assume the gun would have to be shipped to them?

No need to ship the gun. In post 14 above you'll find the links to the form that needs to be filled out and sent off to the historian. They will send you a Historical Letter in return that should verify the configuration of the gun when it left the factory, the date it was shipped and where it was shipped to.

Good luck,

 

[Brassbullets1]

Thanks, I have learned alot in last 2 days. I will have now a little knowledge to add my addiction to guns, and reloading. I get addicted to anything that has a trigger!.
If anyone is a reloading nut,contact me.

 

[handejector]

Does anyone know in a rough figure what it might be worth?

It depends on how well it can be cleaned up. There is lots of rust to remove CORRECTLY and it will almost certainly benefit from hand polishing with Flitz. It really needs to be cleaned by a pro. Improper cleaning could reduce the value.

Mechanical and bore condition matters.

Then, we would need good pics to make an estimate.
It is worth several thousand $, so the $100 for a letter is a smart expenditure.
Who/where it shipped MIGHT also add significant value.