What does this look like to you?

quaduser

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So... I've read the rules of the forum and I think I'm OK posting this. I was interested in an auction that is now over, but I had a question regarding one of the auction photos which I have attached. To me this looks like an eroded forcing cone. The seller said no. I'm not a wheel gun expert but it took me out of the race. What do you think?
 

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Hot lead bullets and not cleaned for a while. . At 11 o'clock it looks like smooth surface where a chunk has broken off. The top of the frame looks ok but if someone was selling it cleaning would be simple before posting photos. Kind of iffy unless the price was right.
 
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My vote is on erosion.

Here's some Titegroup induced erosion in one of mine. It's not pretty but doesn't affect the accuracy. I stopped shooting Titegroup in my revolvers.

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The Pits

Well one good thing, the Seller showed you a Picture.

To me it looks like Lead Residue, and Erosion. The Seller
is lazy and wanted to get rid of that Revolver. Seller
should have cleaned the Forcing Cone.

This is why I have Gun Buying Rule #1: I will not
consider buying a Revolver without handling and
inspecting it (especially off the Internet).

The Best to you and your Endeavors.
 

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Super Dave:

Very interesting about the Titegroup erosion you've experienced. Could you share your thoughts on alternative powders that don't erode? Thanks.
 
Definitely erosion.

That cone could be cleaned up, but that is definitely erosion.
 
My first thought was yes, that is erosion. The flame cutting tends to back that up.

Maybe I'm an idiot but I knowingly bought a 629 with forcing cone erosion and flame cutting for a shooter. Flame cutting never gets deep enough to effect the revolver's functioning. They keep on shooting well with quite a bit of cone erosion. However, if I could not handle it I'd assume that it needs a tune up, meaning stretching the yoke and installing a fatter hand. The biggest risk with a revolver that you could not handle would be a previous owner filing the rear end of the barrel when they should have stretched the yoke or installed end shake washers. That would require a gunsmith to set the barrel back a revolution. I could handle the one I bought and the price reflected its condition. Without being able to handle it I'd pass.
 
The gun may shoot well with different loads and may be really accurate. But the trailing edge of the stub or barrel extension is significantly eroded and impinged from slower burn powders. The barrel extension/stub can be refaced but chances are to clean that up would increase your cylinder gap excessively then you're talking about setting the barrel back to return to spec. The cost percentages are upside down plus a ragged edge at that location will yield lots of accumulated crud.

Rick
 
That is the number one thing that turns me away from a revolver purchase. I can't even count how many I've turned away due to barrel face erosion. I always point it out to the seller too and none seem to care.
 
Super Dave:

Very interesting about the Titegroup erosion you've experienced. Could you share your thoughts on alternative powders that don't erode? Thanks.

I shoot pretty mild loads with the primary interest being 50 yard accuracy and least amount of recoil to achieve this.

Titegroup is probably fine if you are shooting light loads and not a huge amount of it. I shot at least a few thousand with 5.0 Titegroup in a 357 load. That's probably a med load. Titegroup would get the revolver hot.

I have a lot of HP38 on hand and that makes a good load along with Bullseye. I really like the Vihtavuori N310 for it's cleanliness and accuracy. Hard to beat with coated bullets in a 45 revolver.

Good luck.

Dave

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I cannot tell from the pictures with these eyes, but I suspect that once it was in my care, it would not get any worse. I would buy it as a shooter, As a "collector's item" no.
 
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