What is the best 686 version?

I have owned a -6+, a -5+, a -3, -4, and finally a six shot -5. I know many take exception to the -5 because of the MIM parts, but I feel this is possibly the smoothest one I have owned. The double action on this one has to felt to be appreciated!
 
Interesting thread, I've got 4 686's and none of them are newer than a 1993 dash 4 6" that is without a doubt the most accurate revolver that i've ever fired. I've got a no dash 4" that I love as well as a no dash 2.5". But my favorite is my cherry 3" CS-1, just about perfect combo of ease of carry and performance IMO.
 
My 686

Having only one 686 :( , I can only comment on it. It is a :) 686-3 :) . I love it. It is capable of more accuracy than I can deliver :( . Sorry I don't know how to post pictures :( . It would have to be one heck of a deal to make me part with it. ;) -Ed.
 
Below is what I consider the best 686 production variant - the 5" half lug 686-6 plus, SKU #164284, actually, a 'Stocking Dealer Exclusive' from 2004:

IMG_3369.jpg


Yes, heretic that I am, I suggest a model with MIM parts, IL, and recent manufacture as my 'ideal' 686 variant. I love partial lugs... it's my only 686! It came as shown - Ahrend grip, HiViz front sight, and V-notch rear - a great and complete package. Excellent hand feel - and balance. Going bang seven times between reloads is nice, too. It was my favorite .38/.357M until the 627 Pro below it 'appeared' here (5/08). Gads, another recent manufacture - and it works great, too!! What's this world coming to??

Stainz
 
Rr sight?

Its all a matter of opinion I reckon, me personally I prefer the -4. Of course I like it because it's pre-lock, no MIM, and has the HMFP, but I also like the rounded rear sight that is on the newer models as well, I think it looks nicely finished. The case coloring to me looks very sharp as well, and I prefer that over the chrome flashed hammer and trigger. The -4 did vary as far as the cylinder latch goes though, some had the newer one and some had the older style one. I have 3 686-4's, and all are 2.5 inches, but the 7 shot one had the older latch. I'm not sure if the older latch is MIM or not. I must say, I like the newer front sights how they have trashed the red ramp, I always hated that and thought it looked cheap and poorly crafted, not to mention it left little options to be able to change it. Changing the red ramp is the last project I have for this gun, I have since bobbed the hammer but have not gotten a updated picture of it since it's been bobbed.

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Do you know if the rear sight on your 686 is metal? I am going to order a few sets, but I cannot confirm if they are polymer or metal. Thanks
 
Hey you guys have forgotten the rules of this fine forum. Whatever you say you have you do not have unless YOU POST PICTURES!:)

Well alright then. My 686-1M (bottom) and 686-5+ (top):

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If I could have only one 686, it'd probably be a -4+ w/ seven shots, and maybe have a 5" barrel installed on it to split the difference between a 4" and a 6". Though honestly, I like my -5+.
 
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I like my 686-3 4 inch. One of my best all around revolvers. I don't know of a bad 586/686. Here is mine.

Thanks,
roaddog28
686-3wood.jpg
 
I love both of mine - PC Hunter (686-3) and 4" no dash with action job and competition rear sight. They are a joy to shoot!

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Hey you guys have forgotten the rules of this fine forum. Whatever you say you have you do not have unless YOU POST PICTURES!:)

Sorry; I don't own a digital camera, and if I did, it would likely take me forever to learn how to use the thing and upload pictures. That said, I think I'll give it a try one of these days.

Andy
 
You all have great taste in 686s. I want one. The L-frame might be the perfect platform for the .357.
 
My heart lies with the -3 & -4s, I have 3 -4s and one -3, the -3 gets shot lots more than the -4s, but this is purely first come first served, the -3 was the first that I bought, the 2.5" & 3" -4s are NIB, the trailer is a -4 PP that is like shooting a 617, great guns!!

Here are a couple of mine, I've posted this pic before. It's of my -4 2.5" & 3". While the CS-1 is a great pistol due to the history the 686-4 3" is equally nice.

686-pair.JPG


Cheers,
Sam
 
I own a 4" 686-4 with a square butt.

Purchased on the reccomendation of fellow police officers who loved the 4" 686.

I found out after I bought the 4" 686 that many S&W fans like the dash 4 version. Many saying these were the last without mim parts?

I can say that I've shot lots of 686 revolvers, and all were great shooters.

Great thread! Unless I'm mistaken, the current production 686-6 has a Round Butt.
I currently own several K and L Frame RB-to-SB Conversion Grips that I want to use on my (future) 686...

When did S&W change the 686 to RB? E.g., is the Dash 5 RB?

TIA
 
I like my 5 inch pre lock and my mountain gun, id be hard pressed to get rid of either of them.
 
Both of these are -4s. The 4" is a round butt 686+, serial prefix CBN. The 6" is a square butt 6 shot, serial prefix BPW. You can see they have different finishes on the trigger and hammer and a different style cylinder release as well. Also, the 6" has no white outline on the rear sight, the 4" does. Found the 4" on consignment at a local shop recently. The 6" I bought new in the mid 90's. I replaced the target stocks that came on it with the Hogues. The 4" came with them. I've often said if I could have only one gun, it would be a 4" 686+.

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While I am no great fan of the locking system on new Smith & Wessons, the only way for me to get a brand new version, with the factory warranty, was to purchase this Model 686-6 Plus, with my favorite barrel length.

3 inches!
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Shown with Eagle Grips' Secret Service stocks and a Kramer Horsehide Scabbard.
 
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Nice pictures. Mine is a pre-lock 6", close to NIB. For any kind of extended woods carry I'd go with a 4".
 
I keep reading about the MIM hammer and trigger. But, I've seen a couple of Talo 686s on Gunbrokers that said forged hammer and trigger? Did they go back to the forged pieces or are the Talo ones special?

Thanks, John
 
I can't say what's "best" but I can say that mine, a 686-6 6" is fantastic. I'm no bullseye shooter and with a lot of handguns my accuracy beyond 15 yards is pretty iffy. However, last week, I took my 686 to the range. At 25 yards, shooting offhand, double action, I put five in the 10 ring plus one in the nine, for a 2 1/2 inch group. I followed that up by putting 18 consecutive rounds within the 10 ring at 10 yards with the group at about 1 1/2". I do not believe that it is possible for me to improve on that degree of accuracy. So I say, again, my 686-6, with its MIM parts, and yes, its lock, is a simply fantastic handgun.
 
IMHO, the BEST is a 3" CS-1, but my second choice would be the one I own. I have a 2.5" 686-4 with Eagle grips that I just love.

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I keep reading about the MIM hammer and trigger. But, I've seen a couple of Talo 686s on Gunbrokers that said forged hammer and trigger? Did they go back to the forged pieces or are the Talo ones special?

Thanks, John

I've seen forged hammers and triggers on the new guns, usually Performance Center guns or special editions (i.e. the Talo). I believe these are special parts; they're still cut for the internal lock, which I'll bet is a bit more tedious than simply injection-molding the shapes for the IL, which is probably why they don't use it for standard production revolvers.
 
It seems that the -4's were all over the place regarding use on MIM parts or not. I have a -4 with no MIM and the old style cylinder release. I have a -4 7 shot 2.5 also with no MIM and old style cylinder release. I had a -4 2.4 " with old style cylinder release BUT it has MIM trigger/hammer. I would suspect the a lot had to do with using up old inventory. The -4 is the stopping point for me simply because I did not like the cosmetic changes to the -5 (leaving aside the MIM issue). I never warmed up to the new style cylinder release, cylinder stop lug or the frame mounted firing pin. To me, centerfire S&W's just look better with the hammer mounted pin. And at my age I have earned the right to be opinionated over stuff that really doesn't matter :D
 
It seems that the -4's were all over the place regarding use on MIM parts or not. I have a -4 with no MIM and the old style cylinder release. I have a -4 7 shot 2.5 also with no MIM and old style cylinder release. I had a -4 2.4 " with old style cylinder release BUT it has MIM trigger/hammer. I would suspect the a lot had to do with using up old inventory. The -4 is the stopping point for me simply because I did not like the cosmetic changes to the -5 (leaving aside the MIM issue). I never warmed up to the new style cylinder release, cylinder stop lug or the frame mounted firing pin. To me, centerfire S&W's just look better with the hammer mounted pin. And at my age I have earned the right to be opinionated over stuff that really doesn't matter :D

I think they were a) transitioning to the MIM trigger and b) using up the old forged triggers. They also started putting the new-style MIM cylinder releases on their guns around that time. MIM hammers came out with the -5, which had the lockwork redesigned to use the MIM hammer and frame-mounted firing pin (and also the integrated frame-lug).
 
A noob here, from Ohio--really appreciating the wisdom and generosity of folks sharing their passion. Have been searching for a 686, 7 shot in the 3 inch barrel. Something about that configuration is just special. Would love to find a -4 but will have to see what I come across.

Great forum!
 
OK guys. Which version of the 686 is seen as the best configuration? Barrel length? Number of shots? Dash number? I am looking forward to your opinions.

My vote goes to the 7-shot 686+ Mountain Gun, with its 4 inch tapered barrel and round butt. It is the same weight as a Model 66, is stronger, holds one more round and is long enough to be quite accurate and with the round butt, it is very concealable. In addition, there are no concerns about the use of Magnum ammo on a regular basis as there was with the K frames.
 

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