KMB
Member
I love both of mine - PC Hunter (686-3) and 4" no dash with action job and competition rear sight. They are a joy to shoot!
What is the best 686 version?
- Thread starter fungunnin
- Start date
snowman
Member
Hey you guys have forgotten the rules of this fine forum. Whatever you say you have you do not have unless YOU POST PICTURES!
Sorry; I don't own a digital camera, and if I did, it would likely take me forever to learn how to use the thing and upload pictures. That said, I think I'll give it a try one of these days.
Andy
Shorty4T
Member
My heart lies with the -3 & -4s, I have 3 -4s and one -3, the -3 gets shot lots more than the -4s, but this is purely first come first served, the -3 was the first that I bought, the 2.5" & 3" -4s are NIB, the trailer is a -4 PP that is like shooting a 617, great guns!!
Here are a couple of mine, I've posted this pic before. It's of my -4 2.5" & 3". While the CS-1 is a great pistol due to the history the 686-4 3" is equally nice.
Cheers,
Sam
Here are a couple of mine, I've posted this pic before. It's of my -4 2.5" & 3". While the CS-1 is a great pistol due to the history the 686-4 3" is equally nice.
Cheers,
Sam
surfdog76
Member
Great thread! Unless I'm mistaken, the current production 686-6 has a Round Butt.
I currently own several K and L Frame RB-to-SB Conversion Grips that I want to use on my (future) 686...
When did S&W change the 686 to RB? E.g., is the Dash 5 RB?
TIA
Bullseye Smith
Member
They are all good 
Mule88
Member
I like my 5 inch pre lock and my mountain gun, id be hard pressed to get rid of either of them.
Both of these are -4s. The 4" is a round butt 686+, serial prefix CBN. The 6" is a square butt 6 shot, serial prefix BPW. You can see they have different finishes on the trigger and hammer and a different style cylinder release as well. Also, the 6" has no white outline on the rear sight, the 4" does. Found the 4" on consignment at a local shop recently. The 6" I bought new in the mid 90's. I replaced the target stocks that came on it with the Hogues. The 4" came with them. I've often said if I could have only one gun, it would be a 4" 686+.
Rio Vista Slim
Member
While I am no great fan of the locking system on new Smith & Wessons, the only way for me to get a brand new version, with the factory warranty, was to purchase this Model 686-6 Plus, with my favorite barrel length.
3 inches!
Shown with Eagle Grips' Secret Service stocks and a Kramer Horsehide Scabbard.
3 inches!
Shown with Eagle Grips' Secret Service stocks and a Kramer Horsehide Scabbard.
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samuelrp
Member
Very nice guns all.......
sourdough44
Member
Nice pictures. Mine is a pre-lock 6", close to NIB. For any kind of extended woods carry I'd go with a 4".
Raspy
Member
I keep reading about the MIM hammer and trigger. But, I've seen a couple of Talo 686s on Gunbrokers that said forged hammer and trigger? Did they go back to the forged pieces or are the Talo ones special?
Thanks, John
Thanks, John
stevieboy
Member
I can't say what's "best" but I can say that mine, a 686-6 6" is fantastic. I'm no bullseye shooter and with a lot of handguns my accuracy beyond 15 yards is pretty iffy. However, last week, I took my 686 to the range. At 25 yards, shooting offhand, double action, I put five in the 10 ring plus one in the nine, for a 2 1/2 inch group. I followed that up by putting 18 consecutive rounds within the 10 ring at 10 yards with the group at about 1 1/2". I do not believe that it is possible for me to improve on that degree of accuracy. So I say, again, my 686-6, with its MIM parts, and yes, its lock, is a simply fantastic handgun.
valkyriekl
Member
I've seen forged hammers and triggers on the new guns, usually Performance Center guns or special editions (i.e. the Talo). I believe these are special parts; they're still cut for the internal lock, which I'll bet is a bit more tedious than simply injection-molding the shapes for the IL, which is probably why they don't use it for standard production revolvers.
SC_Mike
Member
I'm not sure if mine is the "best" or not, but I like it... 686-5 3'' unfluted no lock.
CAJUNLAWYER
Member
It seems that the -4's were all over the place regarding use on MIM parts or not. I have a -4 with no MIM and the old style cylinder release. I have a -4 7 shot 2.5 also with no MIM and old style cylinder release. I had a -4 2.4 " with old style cylinder release BUT it has MIM trigger/hammer. I would suspect the a lot had to do with using up old inventory. The -4 is the stopping point for me simply because I did not like the cosmetic changes to the -5 (leaving aside the MIM issue). I never warmed up to the new style cylinder release, cylinder stop lug or the frame mounted firing pin. To me, centerfire S&W's just look better with the hammer mounted pin. And at my age I have earned the right to be opinionated over stuff that really doesn't matter
valkyriekl
Member
It seems that the -4's were all over the place regarding use on MIM parts or not. I have a -4 with no MIM and the old style cylinder release. I have a -4 7 shot 2.5 also with no MIM and old style cylinder release. I had a -4 2.4 " with old style cylinder release BUT it has MIM trigger/hammer. I would suspect the a lot had to do with using up old inventory. The -4 is the stopping point for me simply because I did not like the cosmetic changes to the -5 (leaving aside the MIM issue). I never warmed up to the new style cylinder release, cylinder stop lug or the frame mounted firing pin. To me, centerfire S&W's just look better with the hammer mounted pin. And at my age I have earned the right to be opinionated over stuff that really doesn't matter
I think they were a) transitioning to the MIM trigger and b) using up the old forged triggers. They also started putting the new-style MIM cylinder releases on their guns around that time. MIM hammers came out with the -5, which had the lockwork redesigned to use the MIM hammer and frame-mounted firing pin (and also the integrated frame-lug).
A noob here, from Ohio--really appreciating the wisdom and generosity of folks sharing their passion. Have been searching for a 686, 7 shot in the 3 inch barrel. Something about that configuration is just special. Would love to find a -4 but will have to see what I come across.
Great forum!
Great forum!
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My vote goes to the 7-shot 686+ Mountain Gun, with its 4 inch tapered barrel and round butt. It is the same weight as a Model 66, is stronger, holds one more round and is long enough to be quite accurate and with the round butt, it is very concealable. In addition, there are no concerns about the use of Magnum ammo on a regular basis as there was with the K frames.
