What is the ''best" safe

how easy is it to break into a safe?

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B8ViUdd-2LM[/ame]

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BjHnklj6PAs[/ame]
 
I guess if your safe is in the middle of a warehouse. To perform that operation in my home office, the thieves would have to remove a door, remove a filled bookcase, a heavy wood desk, about 30 filled ammo cans and another display case, after moving the washer and dryer from the mud room by removing another door, because the desk has to rotate out of the office into the space occupied by the washer and dryer, pull the safe away from the wall, rotate it, then drop it on its back, only to find out there's not enough room to manipulate a four foot pry bar.

I think I'm good . . .

 
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But what is the best "caliber" of steel and which safe is best if you live in Bear Country.:confused:

I live below sea level so I need a water PROOF safe. I wrapped it with buoyant foam.:D
 
There has not been a safe built yet that someone can't get into! It's ALL ABOUT slowing them down!! Most thieves want to get in and out quickly - and will not spend hours trying to break opened a safe.

The exception is maybe if they KNOW you are away for an extended period of time and they know they have all the time in the world. If they are smart, determined enough and have the proper tools - they are getting in. That is why I do not "announce" vacations, trips, or extended time out of the house. IMO people who post info regarding being away on vacations on websites or social media sites are making a BIG mistake. Homeowners who show off or discuss their collections with service people, delivery guys, repairmen etc. who they do not know are IMO making a mistake.

It is my opinion that a Presidential line Liberty and Fort Knox Safes are some of the better quality out of the box gun safes and that would probably keep the average junkie or desperado out as long as they do not have unlimited time. Even the best gun safes can be cut through the top or sidewall with a Dremel, Angle Grinder or similar in under 20 minutes. I also think it is imperative to bolt it down with 4 bolts (each corner) to limit the use of pry bars. I also believe keeping a safe in a designated closet with a solid wood door, descent locks, and a separately controlled alarm will add a depth of security.

Some have enough of a collection to build a Concrete gun room with a safe style door and that is also very deterring however once again, not impenetrable if determined with proper tools and time.
 
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As I have often stated here on the Forum, the BEST safe to store guns in are used jewelry safes. They are far better rated for burglar and fire protection, way stronger, thicker and heavier. The only downside is they will need to be modified inside to accommodate long guns - but not a big deal for most of us here. There are usually a bunch for sale from a reputable safe dealer in most areas as jewelry stores are always coming and going.

Jewelry safes won't have fancy paint jobs, pin striping or Gold plated wheels, but it really SHOULD be concealed inside an alarmed closet anyway so it's a non issue. Leaving a loud screaming gun safe in plain sight is ASKING for trouble!!
 
I had the biggest Browning safe delivered to a home I am moving into. All safes in our area are delivered by one mover. So 6 shady guys now know about my safe. I considered the safe room idea, but by the time bids go out and permits are issued, a couple of dozen people know what your doing. A few years ago, this forum had a "show us your safes" & "show us you gunroom" thing going on. I would keep everything secret if possible.
 
Liberty for me and my friends.

However, if I was building, I'd really really look hard at a built in gun room / vault.

Edit to add: that video mentions a "$1,000 retail safe" ...... that ain't much of a safe. I think if my Liberty were new today, this model is in the $3,000 range.
 
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I have a Liberty Lincoln 50 and so far I love it.

Only problem is that I have out grown it already.

Don't care what some folks say, Liberty makes a quality product.
 
I agree with a lot of the thoughts here about determined burglars eventually getting access to your safe. However, in all my years in law enforcement, I have yet to see a safe that has been burgled.

Perhaps it is me and I just haven't been dispatched to "that" call yet, lolololol........
 
Why not build a storm shelter that is also large enough to store a few select items. You can then have a vault door installed using the cover as something strong enough to withstand both storms and weight of the house falling on it. If it were me I would go with about a foot thick reinforced concrete walls with 1/4 plate lining, for the ceiling a foot of concrete in the ceiling sandwiched between 1/4 plate steel.

Unfortunately I have to settle for my Liberty in the basement. But I may section a part off after retiring and reinforce it for a storm shelter/gun room.

While researching safes a couple of years ago I did come across a strong recommendation to stay away from any safe using drywall from China. There is supposedly a microbe that emits gasses than can attack blued steel if kept isolated for long periods.
 
I highly recommend building a safe room with a vault door. Two of my friends did and they are extremely happy with them.

They built a separate room with concrete and rebar walls. Then put the door on. One of them is 10 x 15 feet. :eek:

The best vault doors are made by American Security, Fort Knox, and Liberty.
 
Like my Liberty Safe. Have had it four years - no problems. As others have said, buy one at least the next size up from what you think you need.
 
I agree with a lot of the thoughts here about determined burglars eventually getting access to your safe. However, in all my years in law enforcement, I have yet to see a safe that has been burgled.

Perhaps it is me and I just haven't been dispatched to "that" call yet, lolololol........

Only one I ever saw come even close was a commercial safe that Larry, Moe and Curly tried to attack with a K-12. Managed to set off both the fire alarm and the sprinkler system, got caught, and were then convicted of arson for setting the office on fire . . .
 
I agree with a lot of the thoughts here about determined burglars eventually getting access to your safe. However, in all my years in law enforcement, I have yet to see a safe that has been burgled.

Perhaps it is me and I just haven't been dispatched to "that" call yet, lolololol........
Thanks, that's good to know. I'd guess the vast majority of robbery's are smash and grabs, where the perps don't have the tools, time or know how to break into any decent level of gun safe.
 
Even a locked steel cabinet may keep them out in a smash & grab. A friend's home was burglarized about three years ago. They got all the cash and jewelry that was quick and easy. They did not even try to open the two locked steel cabinets (not safes) in his garage that contained his collection of WWII firearms. It would have only taken a few minutes to pop those open, but they didn't even try.

He has a safe now - and a security system. Better late than never.
 
I too would vote for a concrete "safe" room. I would consider dividing it in two sections, one for firearms and the other for reloading with a door in between. Use a vault door and hide it. Put in a sprinkler system around the outside just to keep things cool in case of a fire.

If you have a basement already, two of the walls will already be there, just need another wall or two and a ceiling. Really not that difficult to do. Good luck with this. Look forward to seeing pictures.
 
A couple of points to remember here. First, a very high percentage of break ins are people looking to spend the minimum amount of time in your home and get the easiest things they can grab. These types aren't going to take the time to try an open a safe.

Deterring burglars involves more than just buying a safe. A house alarm, large dog, car in driveway, light timers and motion detector lights also play a part. Thieves tend to be lazy and cautious, so the harder it is for them to get your stuff, and more likely they are to get caught, the more likely they will move on to someone else. Also, the fewer people who know you have valuables, the less likely you are to be targeted.

Lastly, you are far more likely to lose your firearms to fire and/or water damage than theft, so make sure you address those areas as well, and make sure you have the proper insurance to cover you under any contingency. Most homeowner's policies cover a very small amount (generally $2000) for firearms and jewelry and nothing for cash.
 
Even a locked steel cabinet may keep them out in a smash & grab. A friend's home was burglarized about three years ago. They got all the cash and jewelry that was quick and easy. They did not even try to open the two locked steel cabinets (not safes) in his garage that contained his collection of WWII firearms. It would have only taken a few minutes to pop those open, but they didn't even try.

That's how I started out. I didn't want somebody looking for fast drug money to be able to reach under the bed and come up with an armload of guns. I went up to better locking cabinets and finally to the safes. When I could consolidate my collection in the safes, I sold the locking cabinets to another cowboy action shooter who said he was going to put them in his trailer.

For what it's worth, thieves are casing shooting events. I remember a gun dealer attended a big Cowboy Action Shooting event and somebody broke into his van and stole guns. If you take a trailer to any of these events, consider getting a locking cabinet so that there is something to impede a thief.
 
Have a Liberty since the 90’s and have been very pleased with it and have no issues. I also have a Golden Rod in it as well.
I might add it has a manual combination, no key pad. :cool:
 
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