S&WshooterFIN
Member
I have a 586 ND without the M stamp. I asked the factory if there was any reason to return the gun there, they said there is none.
What to expect when I send my revolver for repair?
- Thread starter maxxer2
- Start date
Not all early production 586/686's had the issue of an oversized firing pin hole. As long as you are not getting primer flow around the firing pin and into the firing pin hole and binding the cylinder when firing full power 357 Magnum loads (I think those by Federal were the biggest culprits), then it does not need the recall service.
Kinda hard to get the belt buckle on the gun huh? Bet it looked a little weird too.
Jeff Napoleoni
Member
19-3 sent in to SW
Last year (2024) I sent my 19-3 in for a tune up. I followed SW protocols and everything went smooth as silk. They returned it with a check boxed note "No parts available, gun not safe to fire". They were very professional about it. Good experience. I've put 500 rounds of everything through it since. Heck I shot that gun this morning!
Last year (2024) I sent my 19-3 in for a tune up. I followed SW protocols and everything went smooth as silk. They returned it with a check boxed note "No parts available, gun not safe to fire". They were very professional about it. Good experience. I've put 500 rounds of everything through it since. Heck I shot that gun this morning!
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Just remember that if you do get it back, no problem found, remember how to go about getting a strain screw and spring for free
I sent in my brand new Model 57 .41 Magnum last October because the cylinder was difficult to both open and close. It was back in three weeks working perfectly. The no charge invoice said only "replaced ejector rod and repaired crane". Or was it"... repaired yoke"? Never can keep that straight.
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oldrookey617
Member
send it in, and hope you get a good gunsmith, sent my new 617 in, got it back in 5 weeks, not fixed, called again, he said I will get a different smith on the second trip back, got it back in 4 weeks, that smith was great, the paper in the box showed he fixed 5 items, mainly a bad hitch in the double action trigger pull, it has been working great now, not paying $850 for a junk revolver, I was going to keep sending it back until they fixed it. I don't have several like you guys, but I have 4 nice S&W revolvers now, that's a long story, good luck, Clifford..
Back around 2013 I had to send my Model 57 because I couldn't get the cylinder to open, and I was unable to tighten the ejection rod. I had it back within 3 weeks of dropping it off at FedEx. No charge.
I'm glad you got it back so quickly. I hope it functions correctly.
Last year I sent an old J frame back for repair. From the time I sent it in to the time I got it back, it took between 4 and 5 months. I had to pay to get it fixed, since it was out of warranty. They did a good job. It works perfectly now.
I removed the original wood grips before sending it in.
Last year I sent an old J frame back for repair. From the time I sent it in to the time I got it back, it took between 4 and 5 months. I had to pay to get it fixed, since it was out of warranty. They did a good job. It works perfectly now.
I removed the original wood grips before sending it in.
So after more range session, nope, still having light strikes but interestingly no light strike at all on Federal American Eagle 165gr 40 S&W. I'm getting light strikes on S&B 10mm and occasional light strikes on CCI aluminum 40 s&w. Some of the 10mm light strikes would need a second strike to get the round to go off. So I have to rotate my cylinder twice by basically going around the cylinder twice with trigger.
I cannot test anymore as now the screw on the right side that keeps the cylinder to the frame came out and I can't find it in the range. Tbh none of my semi-auto gives me so many problems. Hate to say it but at least for me revolvers are romantic but they are super unreliable compared to glocks.
I cannot test anymore as now the screw on the right side that keeps the cylinder to the frame came out and I can't find it in the range. Tbh none of my semi-auto gives me so many problems. Hate to say it but at least for me revolvers are romantic but they are super unreliable compared to glocks.
Call customer service, I'm sure they will send you the yoke screw at no charge, maybe even an extra. Make sure it is snug when you replace it as they will workout, as you discovered.
You are right on the cusp of getting reliable ignition with all primers. A half turn longer screw should fix it! The CCI and S&B are a little harder than, say, Federal or Winchester. Make sure the mainspring strain screw is all the way screwed in, if it is, get a longer one and fit it. You can find a replacement screw at the hardware store, sometimes.
You are right on the cusp of getting reliable ignition with all primers. A half turn longer screw should fix it! The CCI and S&B are a little harder than, say, Federal or Winchester. Make sure the mainspring strain screw is all the way screwed in, if it is, get a longer one and fit it. You can find a replacement screw at the hardware store, sometimes.
A spent primer, seated over the end of the strain screw, may provide you with the additional mainspring tension needed to ignite the harder primers.
Sorry to hear of your issues; my 610-3 was one of the tightest revolvers in the safe, with the proverbial ‘bank vault’ lock-up. I expect S&W to make it right, even if it takes time. Please don’t let this sour you on the revolver concept.
Sorry to hear of your issues; my 610-3 was one of the tightest revolvers in the safe, with the proverbial ‘bank vault’ lock-up. I expect S&W to make it right, even if it takes time. Please don’t let this sour you on the revolver concept.
Assuming that the mainspring is stock and the strain screw is fully tightened then I'd suggest an extended firing pin. I've heard that some OEM firing pins are undersized.
Smith and Wesson (S&W) Firing Pin Replacement
– TK Custom Store
Edit... adding link for Apex firing pin.
Attention Required! | Cloudflare
Smith and Wesson (S&W) Firing Pin Replacement
– TK Custom Store
Edit... adding link for Apex firing pin.
Attention Required! | Cloudflare
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S&W will be shipping a new yoke screw for the missing one. As for strain screw, I'm debating between that or a longer firing pin as suggested by @AJR337.
Thanks. I still enjoy revolver and tbh I'm surprised how well my 2.5" Charter Arms Bulldog shoots even with my reloads of 44 special. If the new Colt Kodiak ever comes to the CA handgun roster, I'll most likely get it. I also really like the S&W 69 for its light weight.
Is TK or Apex firing pin just as reliable for long range sessions in as the OEM one?
After my dealings with S&W service and no fix, I bought a Apex extended firing pin. It broke after a few hundred rounds. I did the spent primer thing and it was not 100%. Then I went with a washer, I was going to buy a Square butt strain screw but went with the set screw. It has been 100% reliable with the set screw. My gun is a 625-8 Performance center .45 acp.
My advice is check the thread size of the Strain screw and go to a hardware store and buy a set screw. Maybe a couple of different lengths. I would get a long one. Screw it in until you get no light hits WITH any ammo. Then go another 1/2 turn and Loctite with Blue. The American eagle has Federal primers and they are the softest. As far as the yoke screw falling out all I can say is wow ! Once again S&W service does not disappoint.
My advice is check the thread size of the Strain screw and go to a hardware store and buy a set screw. Maybe a couple of different lengths. I would get a long one. Screw it in until you get no light hits WITH any ammo. Then go another 1/2 turn and Loctite with Blue. The American eagle has Federal primers and they are the softest. As far as the yoke screw falling out all I can say is wow ! Once again S&W service does not disappoint.
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stang1911
Member
“Insanity is doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results.”
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