What's the easiest way to polish cylinder chambers
- Thread starter 1sailor
- Start date
nachogrande
Member
Is this happening with reloads? If so I'd guess some of you rounds are not fully dropping into the cylinder and this is causing your binding issue. Using too much or too little crimp or crimping in the wrong spot can cause this.
nachogrande
Member
^^^^^^ GREAT POINT
Much talk about the gun, little about the ammo. Cast/hand loads????
Much talk about the gun, little about the ammo. Cast/hand loads????
Loaded rounds drop right in. They absolutely seat all the way. One of the first things I checked. Does it with factory ammo, and reloads. I own 5 other S&W 357's and all my reloads work just fine in them. Combination of, Gold Dot 135's, Hornady 140 and 125 XTP's, cast 135gr rnfp, and cast 158 swc. Loads range from light magnum loads with cast all the way up to full bore magnums with the Hornady's. I'll be going back out into the woods on Monday and hopefully will know a little more when I come back.
That's a little insulting to the OP and the other members here offering common good advice. If you think someone is ruining a revolver, just because your opinion differs from other members, you are in the wrong thread.
one eye joe
US Veteran
FYI, zonker5, THE REVOLVER IS NOT AN EARLY VERSION. THE NO DASH AND 686-1 ARE BOTH 6 SHOT REVOLVERS......
THE 7 SHOT CYLINDER WAS FIRST OFFERED IN THE -4 VERSION AS THE 686+......
IF THE OP'S REVOLVER IS COVERED BY THE S&W WARRANTY, I WOULD SEND IT BACK TO THE MOTHERSHIP......
one eye joe
US Veteran
I WOULD VIEW IT AS A POSITIVE, nachogrande. I WOULD SEND IT BACK TO THE MOTHERSHIP, IF IT WAS MY REVOLVER.....
I'M NOT CERTAIN, BUT EVIDENCE OF ANY TINKERING BY BUBBA, MAY VERY WELL VOID THE WARRANTY, WITH REGARD TO THIS PROBLEM......
ALSO, A WORD OF CAUTION. THE REMOVAL OF THE IL, WILL AUTOMATICALLY VOID YOUR WARRANTY ! ! ! IF YOU HAVE ALREADY REMOVED IT, REINSTALL IT.......
S&W WILL NOT SHIP A GUN BACK , W/O AN IL. THEY WILL CHARGE YOU FOR INSTALLING A NEW IL, CHARGE YOU FOR ANY REPAIRS THAT YOU SENT IT IN FOR, AND CHARGE YOU FOR THE SHIPPING, BOTH WAYS......
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nachogrande
Member
IF I HIT A NERVE/IF THE SHOE FITS...
Speaking for the crowd? The OP never complained. At the LEAST, voiding the warranty would be BAD.
Using an abrasive unsupported without some type of "method" to make sure EVERYTHING is done straight & evenly in one cylinder, let alone 7, would be a nifty trick. Sorry if anyone has hurt feelings. Try a sitz bath with Epsom salts for the pain.
That's a little insulting to the OP and the other members here offering "common good advice".If you think someone is ruining a revolver, just because your opinion differs from other members, you are in the wrong thread.
Speaking for the crowd? The OP never complained. At the LEAST, voiding the warranty would be BAD.
Using an abrasive unsupported without some type of "method" to make sure EVERYTHING is done straight & evenly in one cylinder, let alone 7, would be a nifty trick. Sorry if anyone has hurt feelings. Try a sitz bath with Epsom salts for the pain.
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slabsides52
Member
the Flex Hone system offered by Brownells or direct from Flex Hone is the best inexpensive way to polish any inside diameter. I have used them several times on SA revolvers and DB shotguns used in SASS competition in order to speed up the ejection of empty shells to reload, and on .22 RF revolvers and single shot rifles to cure sticky extraction issues. These tools are easy to use, and safe from potentially causing additional damage to ID's. They may look a little expensive at first, but used properly, will never wear out when used by a hobbyist.
I've also seen Flex Hones used in industry on similar applications with no complaints. Usually they are held in either a variable speed electric drill or a drill press running at a slow RPM, and the hone or work piece is moved up and down the length of the bore slowly for a minute or so per cycle. Vary the number of cycles used until the desired finish is obtained. Use the Flex Hone oil as it is blended expressly for this type operation.
I've also seen Flex Hones used in industry on similar applications with no complaints. Usually they are held in either a variable speed electric drill or a drill press running at a slow RPM, and the hone or work piece is moved up and down the length of the bore slowly for a minute or so per cycle. Vary the number of cycles used until the desired finish is obtained. Use the Flex Hone oil as it is blended expressly for this type operation.
