Where would you start?

[Hair Trigger]

Blued pinned and recessed 4” Model 19. Since it is perfect it doesn’t need pages of justification.

I wouldn't argue with either statement there. It's concealable, but hot weather and decreasing amount of cover garment can make concealment more of a challenge. How it handles, though, is really sweet, a perfectly balanced handgun.

The M19 will loosen up after a few thousand full powered .357 loads. Some are loose at 3000 rounds, some at twice that, or a bit more. If you handload, backing the load down a bit will help a lot. The happiest M19 owners shoot a hot .38 +P round in their M19's. Then they will last forever.

Downloading is a viable option, even low-powered magnums have more punch than .38SPL+P loads, and will make a short-barreled gun much more controllable and comfortable to shoot a lot. Much is said about a long and steady diet of magnum loads in the K frame guns, your mileage may vary. I've owned 4 M19/M66 over the years and shot a lot of 125 JHP's through 3 of them with no signs of wear or permanent damage. The exact number I couldn't say, it's probably in the low thousand +. What you'd expect to see from continuous high shock loads would be cylinder end play and lockup issues, but both can be easily addressed.

Lots of great informative posts, I'm learning a lot about S&W revolvers, thanks!

I generally buy used weapons, but I think after 40 years of buying them and growing up with 1911s I'm familiar with how to inspect them for flaws/faults. Is there a good tutorial or reference on what to look for and check on used S&W revolvers or should I just start with BNIB?

There's nothing wrong with buying a used revolver, either; just use the same caution and inspection you'd use on a 1911 when buying and know what to look for that is specific to a revolver vs. a semiauto. All but three of the handguns in my safe are either revolvers or 1911's; why buy anything else? My 1911's are newer, all made since 2010, but my S&W's are all from the late 1960's to 1980, all pinned and recessed magnums. I don't own any L-frame guns, I don't care for the full underlug look, if I did, I'd buy a Python (and learn to deal with Colt shortcomings).
My take on a S&W for carry would be like this: A J frame is the smallest one, most concealable, and IMO would be just fine to shoot magnums for carry, but downloaded a bit if possible. Practice with .38Spl. +P, and even carry with them. The M60-9 is an enlarged J frame Chief's Special chambered for .357 Magnum, it's a round butt with 2" barrel, in stainless.

The K frame would be next up the ladder. If you want blued, then a M13 or M19, depending on whether you want fixed or adjustable sights. Best case would be a 2-1/2" round butt for concealability, a 4" square butt still works. Stainless is more durable in the long-term, shows less wear, so then your options are M65 or M66.

If you go to an N frame, choices are a M27 or M28 for a blued gun or a M627 for stainless. I wouldn't even try to hide one, just go for open carry, unless you have a trenchcoat or duster you want to wear. Also, if I were considering the N frame for regular carry, I'd opt for a larger caliber as well, there's no appreciable difference in size between the .357 and a .41 or .44.

Boils down to the 2 best for CC (IMO), your choice of color:

 

[treedog61]

Model 581....L frame, 357 Mag, blued, fixed sights.

 

[Rock185]

Blue .357s I have owned, and sometimes carried, are the Models 19, 586, 28 and 27. I prefer the pre-lock guns, but that's just personal preference. I greatly admire the 586. A 586 no-dash was the first L-Frame gun I ever bought. I carried it on duty, but it did have to go back to S&W for the "M" modification because it would tie up with some factory Magnum ammo. But still, in a blue .357 that is not exotic, expensive or hard to find, I think the 586 would be an excellent choice...

BTW, I realize this is the S&W forum, but clean Colt Trooper or 3 5 7 models sometimes appear for sale, and one of these might also be a worthy of consideration if the price is reasonable.

 

[gmarshall99]

If you haven's shot a 357, I suggest you rent one from a range and try it out before you make a purchase. The difference between shooting 38 special is extreme! I'm more than happy shooting defensive type ammo in 38 special.

 

[PPS1980]

If you haven's shot a 357, I suggest you rent one from a range and try it out before you make a purchase. The difference between shooting 38 special is extreme! I'm more than happy shooting defensive type ammo in 38 special.

Thanks, I've shot the magnums in the past and do recall the.....difference. The issue for me is that I can't really put 357 through my 442 (I mean I could but....) but with a 19 or 586 I can always use 38 when I want to but also do 357. I'm mostly carrying 357Sig these days and among auto shooters there are many that cringe because its sooo loud, has too much muzzle flash, etc.

 

[Lobster Picnic]

For carry I would stick with a J-frame. I'd look at the Model 60 Pro Series, the Model 640 Pro Series and the Model 649. All are steel, .357 and between 21 and 23 oz.

 

[MajorD]

I would say there is absolutely nothing stronger or more durable about stainless over blue. All stainless has ( given even the most basic maintenance blued guns hold up just fine and acquire a pleasing wear pattern with use) is a degree of ugliness

 

[TMan51]

The wear of magnum rounds on K-frames is a "perhaps", "maybe", or "sometimes" phenomenon. It is a real thing, but you can't nail it down because of all the variables involved.

Great answer.

There are way fewer K frame .357's sold these days, so it's hard to say if anything has changed. I've been a S&W .357 owner since before SAAMI dropped the spec for pressure on .357/ 44. In the way back past, an eager shooter with lots of money for full on .357 ammo could kill a K frame dead in a year, sometimes less. Even the N frame .44's were prone to early retirement.

So it depends.