Which rebound spring for 27-2 trigger tuning

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I want to tune the trigger of a 27-2 and reduce the weight for single action precision shooting. I am looking for a single action trigger weight of around 1250 grams (must stay above 1000 grams), so around 2.5-2.75 lbs.

I saw Wolff and Wilson Combat both have rebound springs with weights 11, 12, 13, 14 or 15lbs, but I am not sure which one to get.

Does anyone have experience with tuning a 27-2? Which of the springs do you think will have the desired effect?
 
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I want to tune the trigger of a 27-2 and reduce the weight for single action precision shooting. I am looking for a single action trigger weight of around 1250 grams (must stay above 1000 grams), so around 2.5-2.75 lbs.

I saw Wolff and Wilson Combat both have rebound springs with weights 11, 12, 13, 14 or 15lbs, but I am not sure which one to get.

Does anyone have experience with tuning a 27-2? Which of the springs do you think will have the desired effect?
There isn't a simple answer because each gun is a little different, both in how the reduced power rebound springs will affect single-action, and how they'll affect trigger return.

The overall tuning (or lack thereof) of the lockwork, and in particular the engagement surfaces of the trigger hook and the single-action sear on the hammer play a more important role.

Point being, a spring swap is not a proper or most effective action tune.

That said, if rebound springs are your focus, your best bet is to get the Wolff pack that has several different weights included and try each to approximate the single-action break you're looking for.

Make sure it's strong enough to properly return the trigger and to do so fast enough that your finger doesn't outrun it in double-action.
 
Thank you. I was aware of this. I thought for SA just switching springs is enough as I have seen and heard people do it everywhere.



One pro of just switching the springs is that I can always switch it back to the original state.



Tinkering with the surfaces will make irreversible changes. It also sounds like a job that should probably be done by a gun smith? However, keeping the original spring in the revolver will ensure a better rebound than changing to a weaker spring, so I see your point.



Since I am only interested in SA shooting at the moment I wonder, whether changing rebound is a good first step for me. I can then always go back to the original spring and get a proper trigger job done by a professional.
 
As Hapworth said, it's not about springs. Save yourself some trouble and leave them alone.

Your thinking about reversible changes is sound, but I don't think that it applies to this case. With luck, one of the S&W-trained armorers here will be along to elaborate.

What is the SA pull now? At one time, SA trigger pull out of the box was close to your target weight.
 
I didn't measure it, but I am guessing 3.5lbs. I compared it with some 2.75lbs triggers at the range and the difference was significant.
 
If I recall correctly, the factory recommends 3.5 lbs single action trigger pull on the 27-2. I do not go below 3.0. However, the new guns with MIM parts seem to come in around 2.5 lbs.

I have not used any aftermarket trigger return springs that I like! I was taught to cut a maximum of two coils off of the factory trigger return spring. That has a enough power left to return the trigger in most guns. I have received a couple of guns with more coils cut off, but I think that is most often too much.
 
It sounds like I would be better off with a MIM 686 then.



A lot of people recommend 27-2s over modern 686s for target shooting so I assumed the trigger tuning to 2.75lbs wouldn't be an issue.
 
Yes, you can just get a Wolff spring kit and experiment with different rebound spring weights and yes, it will reduce the measured trigger pull. What you'll also get by doing just that and not smoothing out the engagement surfaces is that you'll feel every scritch and skrank inside the gun as you pull the trigger.

I have an N frame that was shipped with an invoice stating "minimum safe trigger pull" that has a 7 1/2 pound double action pull and a 2 pound single action pull, so it can be done safely. What you'll find is that at a single action pull that light the trigger return doesn't push your trigger finger out of the way....you have to move your finger to allow the reset. If you don't move your finger far enough it's possible to 'short stroke' the action and it doesn't work.

You're absolutely right about reversible changes. Buy a good sideplate screwdriver and a rebound spring tool (or make one) and give it a try. If you like it after the spring change, put the original spring in an envelope in your safe and save it for when the gun eventually gets sold or inherited. If you don't like it, you can put the original spring back in. There are lots of us here that can walk you through the replacement process. Give it a try....
 
Another few options:

1. buy a well used 27 (or pre-27) that has been smoothed by thousands of trigger pulls and use that for your matches,

2. Send your gun to Nelson Ford (Phoenix, AZ revolversmith) for his action job, or

3. Buy a well-used pre-27 and have Nelson do an action job... like this one (it is my favorite shooter)... :D:D





... Nelson also put a gold bead front sight and a trigger stop on the above gun (it is my favorite shooter) - you can see the trigger stop better in this photo.

 
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There is no reason you can't get a Wolf or Wilson spring kit that each contain several spring weights and see if it get you what you desire. As you said, you can always go back if you retain your original spring.
Another old time option is to lighten you strain screw on the front of the grip. Go a half turn at a time and see if this helps. You will definitely get to a point where you get light primer strikes. Again go back in a half turn at a time and see if this gets you what you desire. If this doesn't work just tighten it all the way and you are back at the factory setting. If what you are looking for is a light single action trigger for target use fine, just don't use it for defensive purposes. My two cents worth.
 
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