WINDHAM SRC RUST UNDER FRONT SIGHT POST NEW RIFLE UGG!

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I had bought a Windham SRC 5.56 and it was their non floated rifle. No rust anywhere as I know the areas to look for including the area joints near the gas block and Front Sight Post. I then sent it it in to Windham Weaponry to have them install a Midwest Free Float 15" and then I get it back finding some dull but bright enough orange colored rust seeping out from under the FSP.

I used some Hoppes 9 and some oil and it got most of it out, but there is still some orange in one tiny spot. Also read most factories do not parkerize under the FSP which seems ridiculous considering that is probably the most likely place to rust, but anyway I am obviously not happy about this

My MP Sport 2 that I also own, I totally love that gun even though the barrel is only a 4140 but the one thing I really like about the MP Sport is the melonite finish which basically makes it rust proof. I am wondering if MP Sport 2 also melonited under the FSP but anyway I am a bit disappointed with my Windham

If you were me would you send the Windham back? I just don't think removing and reinstalling the barrel more than 1x is a good idea and if rust is already there, I also read that the metal will always be suseptale to more.
 
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I would suggest a shot of WD-40 in the area. WD-40 actually means Water Displacing formula 40, so it's an excellent water displacing oil and rust preventative because that is what it was originally designed for. BTW, it's also a rather poor lubricant and if you really want to stop squeaks and squeals your grandfathers 3 in 1 oil is a far better choice.

I would also suggest that you NOT look down your nose at 4140 steel, otherwise known in some circles as Chrome Moly. It is a steel that was originally developed for making parts subject to high pressures like rifle barrels and for many years has proven to be an excellent steel for that used. I've also seen several articles that suggest that when Nitrided (melonited) that it may actually be more wear resistant than chrome plated barrels. While some may not like the 1:9 rifling used on the new Sport II the choice that S&W made for the barrel steel was not in any way a "cheap out", they are actually an excellent barrel choice for those shooting 55 grain budget ammunition.

Note, as someone who has custom built every one of his AR's using rather expensive high end barrels I still find myself tempted by the S&W Sport II because while they aren't 1/2 MOA capable they are an excellent bargain and that lighter weight does means they are a great choice for an iron or reflex sight equipped "fun gun".
 
No finish under the FSB is a thing with many commercial rifles. It's a cost cutting measure. Some do do it but I'm not going to get into thay

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No finish under the FSB is a thing with many commercial rifles. It's a cost cutting measure. Some do do it but I'm not going to get into thay

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

I wished I would have known they leave the metal bare under the gas block. I probably would have built my own AR15. I think that is just ridiculous that to save on cost they would leave that step out, oh but Windham told me they put oil in front to compensate.

MP came up with almost something like a Glock as far as corosion resistance with melonite.

The Cerakote or Duracoat I guess is the only way to make the AR15 like Glocks
 
I would suggest a shot of WD-40 in the area. WD-40 actually means Water Displacing formula 40, so it's an excellent water displacing oil and rust preventative because that is what it was originally designed for. BTW, it's also a rather poor lubricant and if you really want to stop squeaks and squeals your grandfathers 3 in 1 oil is a far better choice.

I would also suggest that you NOT look down your nose at 4140 steel, otherwise known in some circles as Chrome Moly. It is a steel that was originally developed for making parts subject to high pressures like rifle barrels and for many years has proven to be an excellent steel for that used. I've also seen several articles that suggest that when Nitrided (melonited) that it may actually be more wear resistant than chrome plated barrels. While some may not like the 1:9 rifling used on the new Sport II the choice that S&W made for the barrel steel was not in any way a "cheap out", they are actually an excellent barrel choice for those shooting 55 grain budget ammunition.

Note, as someone who has custom built every one of his AR's using rather expensive high end barrels I still find myself tempted by the S&W Sport II because while they aren't 1/2 MOA capable they are an excellent bargain and that lighter weight does means they are a great choice for an iron or reflex sight equipped "fun gun".

Yes I have heard Melonite hardens metal and I really like the fact the Sport II will be the only AR that will not be prone to rust. I am a bit disappointed my Windham that I just had the barrel free floated came back with rust under the FSB.
 
I wished I would have known they leave the metal bare under the gas block. I probably would have built my own AR15. I think that is just ridiculous that to save on cost they would leave that step out, oh but Windham told me they put oil in front to compensate.

MP came up with almost something like a Glock as far as corosion resistance with melonite.

The Cerakote or Duracoat I guess is the only way to make the AR15 like Glocks
I don't know how new you are to ARs but there are things that count and things that dont. Those are not the only corners they cut. There is a certain list and when it's brought up it always turns into an argument, which is why I'm not saying any more about it except that most commercial ARs cut corners

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Looking at many pics of AR-15 barrels, I see that they leave the finish off, where the gas block is installed. Makes good sense to me, considering you'd want a tight metal to metal connection there, without some kind of coating in between, that could allow the high pressure gas to leak. The three barrels I installed, were stainless steel, so it didn't make a difference.
 
I called Windham today and they actually wanted me to pay for shipping and then they would warranty the rust by getting it refinished. I told them I could not understand how they can blame me when I sent the rifle in to have them free float my Barrel and it had no rust going in. But after getting it back it had rust seeping under the gas block. They told me it sounded like locktite but I know what that looks like and I know red locktite does not look orangish like rust. they finally agreed to pay for shipping but I now have a bad feeling they are going to do a crummy half hearted job.

Anyway, lessoned learned. From now on I am building my own AR15 using barrels that are completely finished
 
I called Windham today and they actually wanted me to pay for shipping and then they would warranty the rust by getting it refinished. I told them I could not understand how they can blame me when I sent the rifle in to have them free float my Barrel and it had no rust going in. But after getting it back it had rust seeping under the gas block. They told me it sounded like locktite but I know what that looks like and I know red locktite does not look orangish like rust. they finally agreed to pay for shipping but I now have a bad feeling they are going to do a crummy half hearted job.

Anyway, lessoned learned. From now on I am building my own AR15 using barrels that are completely finished


Do make it a point to look at many barrels, the finishes, and the fact that so many of these barrels don't have a full coating of finish, or whatever, where the gas block is. It suppose it would completely depend on the density of the finish, and what impact it would have on sealing the gas block. A whole bunch of them, leave that area bare. And I'm positive I know why. I've worked with refrigeration for 45 years, and aircraft engine systems for many years. A lot of high pressure fittings, are metal to metal and for good reason. I'm sure the very high pressure gas block is metal to metal, for the same reasons these other fittings are.
 
Do make it a point to look at many barrels, the finishes, and the fact that so many of these barrels don't have a full coating of finish, or whatever, where the gas block is. It suppose it would completely depend on the density of the finish, and what impact it would have on sealing the gas block. A whole bunch of them, leave that area bare. And I'm positive I know why. I've worked with refrigeration for 45 years, and aircraft engine systems for many years. A lot of high pressure fittings, are metal to metal and for good reason. I'm sure the very high pressure gas block is metal to metal, for the same reasons these other fittings are.

I am not a gunsmith but the hole that is drilled, you would think any pressure would take the path of the least resistant. But either way it is irksome that none of the AR makers would come up with the bright idea of maybe putting a tenifer finish on all barrels and the receivers.
 
I am not a gunsmith but the hole that is drilled, you would think any pressure would take the path of the least resistant. But either way it is irksome that none of the AR makers would come up with the bright idea of maybe putting a tenifer finish on all barrels and the receivers.

Until the bullet leaves the barrel, and BCG moves backwards beyond the gas tube, there is going to be a lot of very high pressure buildup. I'm not irked at all, about the finishes. In fact, my wife & I, hydro-dipped a good portion of her AR-15. I'm glad the upper & lower weren't covered with anymore than what they were.
 
Put some Kroil at the joint and let it seep in. Then shoot it. Repeat Kroil and shoot. Maybe again.
i'll bet you won't see anymore rust.
Windham fellas are the former Bushmaster fellas.
I really like my SCR in .308.
 
Put some Kroil at the joint and let it seep in. Then shoot it. Repeat Kroil and shoot. Maybe again.
i'll bet you won't see anymore rust.
Windham fellas are the former Bushmaster fellas.
I really like my SCR in .308.

I will defintiely try Kroll. But sending it back today. They told me they will refinish the barrel completely. The only thing that irks me is this will be the 2nd time the barrel would have been removed and put on. Heard you are not supposed to remove the barrel more than a few times in its lifetime. I am definitely building my own uppers from now on. TIred of having to deal wiht manufacturers that cut corners
 
I will defintiely try Kroll. But sending it back today. They told me they will refinish the barrel completely. The only thing that irks me is this will be the 2nd time the barrel would have been removed and put on. Heard you are not supposed to remove the barrel more than a few times in its lifetime. I am definitely building my own uppers from now on. TIred of having to deal wiht manufacturers that cut corners

You don't have evidence that they cut corners. I wouldn't be surprised if it's a combination of gun oil, residue & red locktite.

Something else....

If I was that concerned about some rust under my gas block, and figured I had the ability to build uppers myself (which I do), then I would have simply removed the gas block to check it out. And don't get too worried about the barrel removal. The whole idea is to stretch the threads a bit, by torquing the barrel nut, before final installation.
 
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You don't have evidence that they cut corners. I wouldn't be surprised if it's a combination of gun oil, residue & red locktite.

Something else....

If I was that concerned about some rust under my gas block, and figured I had the ability to build uppers myself (which I do), then I would have simply removed the gas block to check it out. And don't get too worried about the barrel removal. The whole idea is to stretch the threads a bit, by torquing the barrel nut, before final installation.

Windham Confirmed they don't parkerize the blank barrel. They only do so once the gas block is installed. I guess the only way one will be able to get the entire barrel parkerized is to buy a blank barrel. Windham does not sell blank barrels.
 
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