Wolff Reduced power spring kit...

I find the power rib springs very consistent. The difference lies in the distance from the main spring to the front of the grip frame on square butt vs round butt guns. Also the grip frame is a bit thinner on the round butt guns so the strain screw is shorter. When I got my 627 Pro Series it had a factory power rib spring and wasn't 100% reliable in D/A. I have no idea if a previous owner shortened the strain screw but the McMaster set screw solved the issue and it now has a super smooth 8lb D/A trigger pull.
 
I have installed many of the Wolf spring sets with great results.

I did have a problem with one set. When installed, the trigger was terrible. Very hard and glitchy. Tried it in a number of N frames I had at the time. I was putting it in a M57 when a friend came over. Same results on the M57. He said "Try it in my M28." So I put it in. That was the best action I had ever seen with just a spring change. Beautiful. The parts were rough inside which was common for a M28. Some look perfect and some do not. It did not misfire. I gave him a set of Herrett's grips, too. He had the service grips.

It would seem I lost out on that deal but he sold me his Father's early fifties Outdoorsman with a 4.5 inch barrel for $200.00. Yes, that is a 4.5 inch.

I experimented with turning the strain screw out on various S&W revolvers. I found you could back it out only 1/4 turn with no misfires. Using the spent primer trick, I fixed a number of "trigger jobs" over the years. There are going to be slight differences in frames so test anything you do for function with the ammo you plan to use.
 
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The cheese head screws as found on the k14, 17 etc, ( not the set screw) are made to be adjusted.
They have thread relief at the head and an extension that is not threaded so that it can be adjusted.
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The space under the head allows the screw to be tightened without interference between the male and female threads. It can be turned to the same place each time.

The extension allows the screws effective length to be shortened with out messing up the threads. It also allows the screw to be shortened with out changing the thread engagement.
 
Does a round butt S&W normally take a different mainspring than a square butt? If not, why would that be different for an aftermarket spring?

I just find this whole thing weird. Either the Poweribs are really inconsistent or there is something else going on.

The mainspring is the same for both, it's the shape of the frames that makes the difference.

I borrowed this from the Altamount grip website... notice the difference in the grip frame front strap where the strain screw is at?

You can see why the square butt frame has a longer strain screw than a round butt.

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I don't follow. The screw is not tight if the head doesn't shoulder against the frame. How does the thread gap have anything to do with how the head shoulders?

If the threads run to the head the screw can seat against the thread before the head hits the frame. Threads are actually wedges. If the screw is seating against the threads and you cut some threads off of the end the screw wont seat at the same location but on a different portion of threads..
 
I find the power rib springs very consistent. The difference lies in the distance from the main spring to the front of the grip frame on square butt vs round butt guns. Also the grip frame is a bit thinner on the round butt guns so the strain screw is shorter. When I got my 627 Pro Series it had a factory power rib spring and wasn't 100% reliable in D/A. I have no idea if a previous owner shortened the strain screw but the McMaster set screw solved the issue and it now has a super smooth 8lb D/A trigger pull.


I would like to state for the record that I know from firsthand experience that series guy knows how to set up a Smith and Wesson revolver action. [emoji846]


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
I've been shooting a Wolf Power Rib Mainspring in my 617 for about a year and after this thead I decided to check it out. I use the McMaster's screws and mine was turned in 5 times to get my 8 pound trigger pull that made my gun work with most .22 ammo.

I ordered some shorter springs because my mainspring was just about toughing the back of the frame leaving no more adjustment.

I put a Miculek Mainspring in and to get the same weight pull I only had to screw it in 3 1/2 turns. This gives me more adjustment. With the way my gun is set up now I need that weight. I can get away with 7 pounds for Federal BYOB ammo and Golden Bullets but need the extra weight for Mini Mags and Norma Tac 22.
 
I've been shooting a Wolf Power Rib Mainspring in my 617 for about a year and after this thead I decided to check it out. I use the McMaster's screws and mine was turned in 5 times to get my 8 pound trigger pull that made my gun work with most .22 ammo.

I ordered some shorter springs because my mainspring was just about toughing the back of the frame leaving no more adjustment.

I put a Miculek Mainspring in and to get the same weight pull I only had to screw it in 3 1/2 turns. This gives me more adjustment. With the way my gun is set up now I need that weight. I can get away with 7 pounds for Federal BYOB ammo and Golden Bullets but need the extra weight for Mini Mags and Norma Tac 22.
 
I've been shooting a Wolf Power Rib Mainspring in my 617 for about a year and after this thead I decided to check it out. I use the McMaster's screws and mine was turned in 5 times to get my 8 pound trigger pull that made my gun work with most .22 ammo.

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I ordered some shorter springs because my mainspring was just about toughing the back of the frame leaving no more adjustment.

I put a Miculek Mainspring in and to get the same weight pull I only had to screw it in 3 1/2 turns. This gives me more adjustment. With the way my gun is set up now I need that weight. I can get away with 7 pounds for Federal BYOB ammo and Golden Bullets but need the extra weight for Mini Mags and Norma Tac 22.
 
I never ever knew that shortening the strain screw was a thing until I joined a bunch of forums ( now only a member of a very few) so guess how many Ive messed with. Maybe my dumb luck but to my knowledge I have yet to buy a revolver with one that has been messed with by anyone else. Pretty much the only revolver I have ever bought with a really nice trigger was that 627PC gun. Its always reliable.
 
Speaking as a graduate of the S & W Armorer's School we were taught that the strain screw should not be shortened and that it should always be screwed in tight. The only modification to the strain screw was to chamfer the end slightly. I have used Wolf reduced power spring kit in several of my N-frame revolvers with no problems, I installed the power rib mainspring and used the mid range rebound spring. The resulting action was smooth, SA & DA pull weights reduced and have never had any ignition problems.
 
My training at S & W Armorer's School was 40 yrs. ago much has changed they didn't even have a manual in those days. Thanks for the updated information.
 
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Always figured that engineers knew more than me so I leave all my guns the way they come from the factory.

design engineers, yes. but then the process improvement engineers and accounting dept get involved, and things go downhill.

I worked at an aerospace/defense contractor for a long while. contracts and accounting dept really screwed up a lot of good designs.
 
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