Wolff Springs

BillBro

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Is there any way to physically discern a difference between the type 1 and the type 2 main springs from wolff? Is one thicker? Wider? Im obviously talking about the kits for S&W revolvers, the reduced power kits vs the standard power kits.

I put new springs in my 586 and just dont see much of a difference so I put in a type2 (reduced power) and it still doesnt feel any better than with the originals. I always use the 14lb rebound spring.

The triggerpull just seems excessively heavy in the 586, as well as my m29, both of which are older firearms. The pull is smooth and not rough but compared to the newer S&Ws, same spring combination, I have theyre just much heavier. Was there a geometry change in any of the lockwork in newer guns? Is it something else?
All of my revolvers are range use only so light strikes are acceptable, not welcomed but they wont cost me or anyone elses their life. So going as light as possible in the springs department is ok. Please nobody suggest using the strain screw as a means of lightening the trigger pull, I always keep those where theyre supposed to be, fully tightened. Im sure we all know better than to do that though anyway.
 
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The Wolff springs type 1 and type 2 are the same spring. The type 2 has a little more bend in it to have less tension on the hammer. There was not a geometry change in terms of the mechanical linkage.

A Wilson Combat main spring may work better for you.
 
Do you have a Trigger pull gauge? if so, what kind of numbers are you getting from a d/a pull when the firearm is secured in a padded vise? THe only other way to reduce spring tension on the same spring no one mentioned is to either 'thin' the thickness below the hammer bend or remove a bit for about 1-2" from the left & right edges at the hammer bend- but you should have a pull gauge and also be prepared to toss away the spring if you go overboard! :-)
 
trigger pull weight mods

OP: you didn't say whether your heavy pull weight was single action or double action, or both, but maybe some of this will help.

I have a Model 25-2 45 ACP that I never realized had been set up for competition before I bought it. I shot it many times over the years, no FTF and trigger pull weight were very light, and a pleasure to shoot. I even Lettered the gun and was pleased when I got the Letter that my gun appeared just as it shipped, i.e 3T's with correct stocks. Fast forward to earlier this year and I sold the gun to another member on this forum. Once he got it he immediately wanted his money back and sent me several pics of the insides, showing some big-time modifications. Of course I apologized and sent him his money back immediately.

Then I went back on the Forum and Protocall Design and other real time experts told me there was nothing wrong with the gun setup as is for competition. So what it is: lightly ground main spring, polished rebound slide, shortened slide spring (15 coils). These mods equal SA pull = 2-3/4 lbs.; DA pull = 6-1/2 lbs. I was also curious as to factory original pull weights so I bought a new factory mainspring, new rebound slide, and new factory slide spring (18 coils). With these parts installed SA = 3lbs.-9 ozs; DA = 11 lbs. - 5 ozs.

All pull weights measured with my Lyman Digital trigger pull weight gauge using multiple pulls with gun in padded vise.

Hopefully you can see the differences in some of the pics below, like mogwan says thought if you hand grind on the mainspring you may wish to have a spare available, as Brownells doesn't always have them in stock. The 3 pics are mod parts in the frame, the last pic is factory parts back installed, along with a hammer block.

I have my 25-2 back in competition mode simply because I like the lighter pull weights and I don't have trouble with light strikes, or FTF at the range and I'm always pretty much using Winchester White Box 230 gr, FMJ.

Best of luck getting your revolver to pull like you want.
 

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