You're Gettin' a J Frame....38 or 357...Your Pick??

I would decide how I was going to carry it then pick a Bodyguard to suit. If ankle or pocket, a lightweight, if in a belt holster a stainless steel version. The only J frame I would really want in .357 is the 3" model 60, and then only to have the option, not because I want to shoot magnums in it.

If a handgun is my one defensive handgun then it is going to be behind my right hip in a belt holster so my personal choice would be a Stainless Steel model 638.
 
I agree RonS, only because I'm old and forgetful and can't remember from one day to the next. I have two model 60's, a -3 and a -7 and the lockworks are all different. One can only take 38's but the other is 357 OK'd. Not sure what the missing numbers inbetween mean, but I'd like to find out. Where would a guy look for such information? Smithy.
 
The Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson is pretty good at listing the various engineering changes and what happened. There's a lot of good information there if you are an S&W enthusiast.
 
I own 4 j frames. The first was a titanium and scandium, a 638, a model 60 Pro series and a older model model 36, pre lock with a 3 in barrel and combat grips. I love all four of these. They are easy to carry. Light and quick to the draw. Normally carry .38 +p's. Normally shoot 158 grain .38 special for practice. You'll feel like you put 500 rounds down ranger after a box of 50. If it's light, it gets carried!
 
3 year old thread, but a decent re-read, and interesting to note so little has changed.
38+p for me, based on ballistics, sounds/flash, recoil/follow up shots, less gun battering. I've got a 357 but it rarely if ever sees the magnum round. 1 cylinder does it for most anyone I've ever met or read about w/ the sub 14oz 357's
 
I carry a 640-3 .357 magnum with Pacmar rubber 3 finger grips that reduces recoil greatly. Loaded with Hormany 125grFTX. I have no problem with practicing with .357 rounds but if you do that's ok. Practice with .38 or +P with a few .357 rounds so you can load your .357 with .357 magnum rounds because the point is you want the maximum stopping power in a self defense situation. You may shoot 1-5 rounds depending on the threat so why defend yourself with of a lower impact round of a .38 or +P instead of a .357. I don't have Anything against .38 or +P, but when it comes down to them or me, I Want to be the one that walks away.
 
Like the 638

I bought a 638 for the same reasons that Alan metioned. Also, I share it with my wife and she likes the single action option. (Shoots tighter groups that I do too.)

One thing that Alan didn't mention which is significant to me, relative to deep concealment, is that the "hump back" is not a 'normal' gun shape when I pocket carry (my normal carry mode). I know that someone who knows what to look for will usually spot someone who is carrying concealed; but I don't want to freak out any "condition white" citizens.

IMHO the Airweight is about as much gun as I want to carry on a regular basis. It's "comfortable" to pocket carry therefore I carry it. I doubt I'd carry something heavier or bigger on a regular basis.

Also, I feel that one of the new self defense rounds in 38 special are adequate for close in self defense. That's what I carry. Currently I favor Hornady's Critical Defense 90 grain Hollow point rounds. Since they pass the FBI penetration requirement that's good enough for me.

YMMV ;)
 
Nala,

You're going to honestly assess whether a .357 Mag out of a 2" barreled gun will be of appreciable benefit. While I have never chrono'd a .357 Mag fired from a 2" gun, my guess is there would a substantial velocity loss. The .357 Mag uses slow-burning, double-based powder that accords it ability to generate impressive -assuredly embellished- velocities, which means the cartridge performs best with longer barrels that facilitate its reaching highest velocities.

I would not want to think about firing a .357 Mag round out of a "J" Frame.

I own a 30+ year-old Model 60. It's an all-steel gun. With the FBI load, it's controllable but not fun to shoot. When I carry it, it's loaded with the FBI load.

Were I you, I'd buy a .38 Special "J" Frame and an "L" Frame .357 Mag with an at least 4" barrel. An "L" Frame will be much easier to manage .357 Mag recoil.

I know others will see it differently. But it's how I see it having owned a 2" Model 60 for a long time.

I wish you best of luck with your choice.
 
If I want to shoot .357 in a 2" S&W I will use my Model 66. For my taste hot .38 Special is painful enough out of a J-Frame. I really wanted a 340 PD in .357 until I read the post on The Gun Zone about frame cracking.
 
I like a 442 for my pocket. Limmeted Range time because of light weight but enough to learn to shoot it. A Modle 36 for the waist band. Has more weight for longer shooting sessions. The 37 was my first. It got a lot of range time and pocket carry when I first got it. I switch grips around if I want to shoot one a lot. I keep factory Boot Grips on the guns I carry in my pocket. I'm hooked on J-Frames.
 

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If I want to shoot .357 in a 2" S&W I will use my Model 66. For my taste hot .38 Special is painful enough out of a J-Frame. I really wanted a 340 PD in .357 until I read the post on The Gun Zone about frame cracking.

That's why for all of the J Frames I've ever owned and presently now own, they all without exception are 100% Stainless Steel. Sure a bit heavy you might think, but very much appreciated when it comes to firing and to longevity. Smithy
 
I've got 357 in a 1970 Model 29-2 and a Ruger SP101. Small frame Smiths I use is the Model 637. I shoot +p's in it most of the time but regular .38's occasionally. I love the 637 and will get a Model 37 at some point just because I've wanted one for awhile. Small frame for me is the 637 38+P...
 
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