You're Gettin' a J Frame....38 or 357...Your Pick??

If your looking for a heavy duty ccw service revolver for the stout 357 magnum loads I'd go with the ruger. Even a used police service six will serve you well.

For a larger heavier frame revolver the s&w N frame is hard to beat.
 
Dave... I get the impression you like laser grips... ;)

Yeah, I do. I'm extremely near-sighted - I cannot even make out the big "E" at the top of the eye chart without my glasses - so I'll take every edge I can get. By the way, the Crimson Trace LG-405 laser grips (they have the "air chamber" along the backstrap) are on the Airweight J-frames, while the older, Crimson Trace LG-105 (bare bones laser grip) is on the all steel Model 649.

Regards,

Dave
 
I carry a snubbie because it works for me across the board and......I love em! I carry .38+P because it works. I don't need to have .357 magnum in my cylinder......I like shots on target, especially shots on target on the move! If you can handle .357 mag in your snub, then more power to you!
 
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I see no purpose for a .357 2" J Frame especially since most of the velocity and energy of the .357 advantage goes out the barrel in the form of muzzle flash, blast and recoil. In a 2" snubby the Buffalo Bore #20A 158 grain +P LSWCHP-GC will give just about .357 Magnum velocities (compared to 158 grain .357 Mag's from a 2" bbl.) without all the negatives. A .357 Magnum out of a 2" barrel is a total waste IMHO and actually more detrimental than helpful.

Buffalo Bore .38 Special +P 158 grain LSWCHP-GC = 1040 feet/second from a 2" Chief's Special personally chronographed time & time again.
 
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Getting it in .357

Getting it in .357 would be more versatile because in addition to .357 you can shoot .38s and even HOT .38s.

If you plan to use it at the range much, I'd get the .357 for the same reason. You would probably want to shoot less expensive target loads for it.

I keep a .357 for home defense and I keep mild .357 loads because it's for indoor use. I can't advise on a carry gun because I don't, buy I'm seriously considering it.
 
Something to keep in mind - the weight of an all steel gun may not seem a problem if you are carrying IWB or OWB as opposed to pocket carry. I originally bought my 640 thinking I would use a pocket holster, but at 23 oz. it is fairly heavy for a pocket. But in a small Remora IMB holster, I don't even notice the weight at all. Personally I like stainless steel, and it does make range firing easier than with some lightweight polymer or aluminum.
 
around the house I pocket carry a 642, going out is a auto pistol of some kind.
 
When there's a choice, I always buy the .357 gun. Not to shoot Magnums (in a small/light gun), but because they will last darned near forever on a diet of .38 or +P.

I shot several Model 38's & 642's loose with a lot of rounds and a fair amount of +P.
But my current 340PD is still as tight as the day I bought it, even after about 3,000 rds including a good number of +P and even a very few Magnums.
 
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My first J frame was a 49. Next one, 20+ years later, was a 442. The steel gun is just enough heavier that it does not work (for me) as a pocket gun although it's just fine in a be lt holster. I did find that the 442, carried all day IWB with a sweater for cover, would rust (on the yoke) if not wiped down daily with a silicone cloth. I've since replaced the 442 with a 638 as my daily carry gun - no sign of rust after more than a year of daily carry with only the most occasional wipedowns.

As for 38 or 357 - when I got a 649, my first range visit included a cylinder with a 38 standard pressure round, a 38 +P and a 357 round. I knew it would hurt, so I put a Pachmayr Decelerator grip on (cushiest grip I know of for these little guns). The two 38s felt about as I expected they would, and the 357 was just plain painful. It's the only 357 round I ever have and ever will fire from a J frame - done it, got the t-shirt, and never again.

Remember that any shot fired in defense of self or others is almost certain to be without hearing protection, so expect some damage to your hearing if you have to use any of these guns in earnest. Indoors will be worse than outdoors, and indoors, the lower the ceiling the worse the damage is likely to be. A 357 round fired without hearing protection seems likely (to me) to produce much more substantial, and perhaps permanent, damage to unprotected hearing than almost any 38 Special round. Keep that factor in mind as you weigh the J frame caliber/ammunition options.
 
I think the muzzle blast from a 357 is just as bad or worse than the recoil. I've only shot full-house 357 out of a 4" M19, and it was flinchy-loud- I don't even want to think about the blast from a 2".
 
One last thought Nalajr. How would you reload a mag for one of the semi-autos you looked at if you other hand was damaged? It would be slow to reload a revolver with one hand, but it could be done. This had a lot to do with my choice to carry a j-frame or a revolver in general. Good luck with your choice, Frank.
 
Any of these will do nicely. Centennials are for close-in self defense, and for drawing easily. +P .38 special is brutal in these guns, and .357 will be especially painful beyond that, making a quick follow-up shot very improbable in execution. Shot placement, not a few hundred feet per second increase in velocity, is the crucial thing. I'd sooner rely on several quickly and carefully placed .38 wadcutters than one wildly placed full-house .357 with little chance for a second shot.

John

CENTENNIALS_zpsb99cde59.jpg
 
I like options, the mod 60 .357 gives options just like the .44mag gives options up and down the power scale.

This is carried with +P but it's fun to fire off a few mags. now and then. And, it really isn't that bad on the hand relative to some poly semi autos I have shot on occasion.

And, if my flashlight ever dies I can always use the 'Magnum flash feature' to help orient myself.

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"And, if my flashlight ever dies I can always use the 'Magnum flash feature' to help orient myself."

Or, to start an emergency survival fire!

Best,
Rick
 
One last thought Nalajr. How would you reload a mag for one of the semi-autos you looked at if you other hand was damaged? It would be slow to reload a revolver with one hand, but it could be done. This had a lot to do with my choice to carry a j-frame or a revolver in general. Good luck with your choice, Frank.

Not really a concern as one handed reloads on a semi are easy enough and much quicker than a revolver, as with anything though you need to practice.
 
Not really a concern as one handed reloads on a semi are easy enough and much quicker than a revolver, as with anything though you need to practice.

The semi auto is generally easier to reload then a revolver...

Doing a tactical reload with a semi auto (replacing a partially or fully depleted magazine with a full magazine, while the slide remains in battery with a round chambered) is, with practice, easy and fast. During the magazine exchange, you still have a round in the chamber, ready to fire.

With a revolver, any reloading takes the weapon out of action while the cylinder is reloaded.

Also, a tactical reload with a revolver conducted by topping off a partially depleted cylinder with fresh rounds could be difficult with one hand. This type of load would preclude use of a speed loader (if extra rounds were carried in a speed loader, one would have to release these into the hand first, and then load single rounds as desired).

The alternative revolver tactical reload would be to eject whatever was in the cylinder (including unfired rounds) and then reloading (preferably with a speed loader). The gun is out of action momentarily. Also, unless retrieved, any ejected live rounds would be lost.

The emergency reload of a semi auto (where the pistol has been shot empty) is likewise easy and fast to accomplish one handed, with practice, PROVIDED THE SLIDE IS LOCKED TO THE REAR AND THE SHOOTER CAN OPERATE THE SLIDE RELEASE CATCH WITH THE SHOOTING HAND.

Where one handed reloading with a semi auto gets tricky is in the case where the empty pistol's slide, for whatever reason, is in battery and NOT locked to the rear.

In that case, after a fresh magazine has been inserted, the shooter must find a means of cycling the slide manually to chamber a round. This requires hooking the rear sight on something and pushing the pistol against that, so that the frame moves forward while the slide remains on place, still hooked by the sights against something, such as the edge of a belt or holster. The design of the sights will effect whether this is doable or not. For example, Novak's low profile carry sights, with their wedge design, would not lend themselves to this technique. In this instance, a revolver would be easier to reload one handed.

Of course, the generally higher ammo capacity of the semi auto might make the necessity of a reload less likely.

The key is to know your equipment, then plan and prepare for contingencies, with knowledge of the capabilities and limitations of your weapon, your accessories and yourself.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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