First problem with my new RIA 1911.

MCorps0311

MCorps0311

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Last night I field striped my new RIA 1911-A1 FS Tact II 10mm. I broken it down and everything was okay till I tried to put the take down pin back in. This morning I took it to a Gunsmith and he had a problem putting the pin back too. He did get it done and it work just fine now. I won't try to clean it again and the gunsmith said he had a hard time getting it aligned with the little marking on the slide, I will take it to my gunsmith next time. Have anyone else had that problem with their RIA 1911-A1 FS Tact II 10mm? I busted up my hands trying to put it back together. All is good now but I couldn't sleep at all last night I was to upset.:mad:
 

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Maybe you were having a hard time aligning the slide release with the hole in the barrel link?

Sometimes getting the slide release back in its little spring loaded notch can be a pain without leaving a scratch on the frame.

Nice gun, by the way. I was looking at one last year at a gun show, but already have a Glock 10mm that I seldom shoot. My RIA .45 1911 has proven to be a solid and reliable gun.

Larry
 
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MCorps0311 said:
This morning I took it to a Gunsmith and he had a problem putting the pin back too. He did get it done and it work just fine now.
Click to expand...

Is problem getting the slide stop to push in the detent (the same
spring that does thumb safety detent, crs the name), so slide stop
can seat into frame?

Maybe just break the rear-inside edge of slide stop, if it's
square--to help it press detent rearwards...hopefully the detent
itself has a nice rounded (not square) end cap.

Guess if there was a burr inside the spring tube, or on detent
itself, that might make pressing it back, even more difficult,
too.
 
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I have a very difficult time also with my RIA .45. I own several 1911's and this is the only one that takes as long to get back together as it does to clean it.

However, I am very satisfied with this gun. It is accurate, reliable and it was cheap.
 
I had a similar problem with my Rock Island 1911, the spring tension on the takedown/safety is strong. I had to assist the spring with a thin brass punch to get the takedown lever back in place. Same thing with a new Springfield 1911, must be using stronger springs than I have been used to.
 
John Moses Browning designed the 1911 to use a barrel bushing and recoil spring plug that would be installed after the slide, barrel, recoil spring and recoil spring guide were on the receiver and the slide stop pin inserted in the receiver. This system works very well.

When you eliminate the barrel bushing, you have to use a reverse recoil spring plug and that means you have to hold the slide retracted against recoil spring pressure while you install the slide stop. This is something that can be quite difficult and the heavier the recoil spring, the harder it is to hold that slide retracted to the exact spot where the slide stop will drop in and keep the barrel link in a position that will allow the slide stop pin to enter.

Some full length guide rods do have a cross drilled hole that allows you compress the recoil spring and you insert a small pin or even a paper clip into the hole to keep the spring compressed. This can make reassembly easier.
 
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Please watch this youtube video. If your guide rod does not have the hole you should get a replacement from Armscor.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tqVo0wfi8Q8[/ame]
 
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From what I have seen the tube holding the spring detente for the slide stop and the safety has been installed or in some cases an integral part of the frame and the "coating/finish" is put on with the tube installed. This makes the interior of the tube "under spec" diameter and the spring and detente's are barely able to move. I would recommend total disassembly and removing both and remove the spring assembly then run a correct diameter (I don't know what that may be) drill bit (by hand) through the tube to clean it out and bring it to spec diameter.
 
I'm a little lost. You mean you can get the slide lock lever pin through the link hole but can't get the lever to fully seat because the spring tension on the detent is to great? Just rock and pull the thumb safety out (catch the spring loaded safety detent) and the slide lock lever will seat easily. Put the safety lever back and push the safety detent in with with something thin and press the lever home.
 
The problem I have had, and I thought what the OP was talking about was getting the slide stop completely through the frame. I can't line up the pin with the hole in the barrel link. This is my only 1911 that gives me this problem. I always get it back together, but it takes more time.
 
max said:
The problem I have had, and I thought what the OP was talking about was getting the slide stop completely through the frame. I can't line up the pin with the hole in the barrel link. This is my only 1911 that gives me this problem. I always get it back together, but it takes more time.
Click to expand...

Thankyou for the clarification. I couldn't figure out the issue. Sorry for the thread drift.
 
No problems with my RIA, 9, or .40. They are a rock solid value! 9 mm is a 5" Tactical I. .40 is a Tactical II Comander. Bob
 

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4barrel said:
The barrel may need a shorter link. You should be able to remove the barrel bushing first to release pressure. It will probably be ok after a couple hundred rounds.
Click to expand...
No barrel bushing

stansdds said:
When you eliminate the barrel bushing, you have to use a reverse recoil spring plug and that means you have to hold the slide retracted against recoil spring pressure while you install the slide stop. This is something that can be quite difficult and the heavier the recoil spring, the harder it is to hold that slide retracted to the exact spot where the slide stop will drop in and keep the barrel link in a position that will allow the slide stop pin to enter.

Some full length guide rods do have a cross drilled hole that allows you compress the recoil spring and you insert a small pin or even a paper clip into the hole to keep the spring compressed. This can make reassembly easier.
Click to expand...
This pistol's action is identical to my Ruger SR1911 (it's 10mm, also), and has a much stiffer spring than a .45 due to the higher recoil. It's almost impossible to take down or reassemble without using the little tool (paperclip) to hold the spring in tension while the slide is removed, but is a piece of cake with it. On a new gun, the slide lock retention pin and the slide lock lever have no wear on their contact surfaces and are difficult to move against each other; a drop of oil on the retention pin during reassembly will help them snap in place. Once you've taken the gun down several times, it will get easier. You should press the slide lock lever straight in past the retention pin, rather than rotate it, as shown in the video, because you're likely to create wear on the frame finish below the retention pin. Doesn't hurt the gun, but the wear mark will show. See picture below, this is my Springfield .45 I bought used; I didn't do that.

I have two bushingless 1911's, and have come to like the takedown better than the one with a bushing, even though it requires no tool. Paperclips are all over the place, throw one in your shooting bag or your pocket if you're in the field and need to take the gun down.
 

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Hair Trigger said:
No barrel bushing

This pistol's action is identical to my Ruger SR1911 (it's 10mm, also), and has a much stiffer spring than a .45 due to the higher recoil. It's almost impossible to take down or reassemble without using the little tool (paperclip) to hold the spring in tension while the slide is removed, but is a piece of cake with it. On a new gun, the slide lock retention pin and the slide lock lever have no wear on their contact surfaces and are difficult to move against each other; a drop of oil on the retention pin during reassembly will help them snap in place. Once you've taken the gun down several times, it will get easier. You should press the slide lock lever straight in past the retention pin, rather than rotate it, as shown in the video, because you're likely to create wear on the frame finish below the retention pin. Doesn't hurt the gun, but the wear mark will show. See picture below, this is my Springfield .45 I bought used; I didn't do that.

I have two bushingless 1911's, and have come to like the takedown better than the one with a bushing, even though it requires no tool. Paperclips are all over the place, throw one in your shooting bag or your pocket if you're in the field and need to take the gun down.
Click to expand...

I cut my 1911 teeth on the M1911-A1 as JMB designed it. Guess I'm getting to be an old fart, I just prefer the original system. I won't tell you what that mark/scratch is called in the 1911 world, it's not a complimentary term, but pretty much all 1911 owners have applied one at some point. ;)
 
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