Trigger not returning completely (updated reply with results on pg 2)

[SWBigBang]

Just picked up a 25-2 for a decent price since the only issue with the item was that the trigger not returning all the way after firing. After squeezing the trigger and letting up, the trigger fails to return the last 10% of its range. A slight tap and it snaps back in place.

After removing all the internals and cleaning out the inside the issue still exists.

It does appear that the rebound spring needs to be replaced.

First, is it common that a rebound spring would ever need to be replaced?

Second, how to tell if its worn as it was pretty darn hard getting it back in place?

Third, could another part be bent and causing too much friction? If so, what are the more common parts fall under this category? (I didn't see any issue.)

Fourth, is any aftermarket spring capable or is there a spring specific to the 25-2 model?

Finally, is there a preferred "pound" spring? Is lighter or heavier better?

 

[OKFC05]

First, is it common that a rebound spring would ever need to be replaced?

It is common that rebound springs with coils clipped have to be replaced.

 

[WR Moore]

A couple of items come to mind, both hint that someone was screwing around with the piece who didn't know what they were about.

1. Rebound spring cut, reducing strength below what's necessary for proper function. Rebound springs should last the life of the weapon unless someone futzes with them. All N frame rebound springs are the same......it's been awhile, the L , K & N frame springs are the same IIRC.

2. Kink in the cylinder stop spring that interferes with proper motion, spring improperly installed.

Other issues: burrs on the trigger/frame, rough finish on the mating surface of the cylinder stop* or poorly fitted sideplate boss/trigger stud flange not flush with frame. Interference between the rebound slide and hammer might also apply, but more doubtful.

If the problem is still there after replacing the rebound spring, try loosening the front sideplate screw (retains yoke) slighty and give it a try. If that solves the problem, it's probably the trigger boss on the sideplate. Depending upon your skill level, sending it back to the factory might be a good move at this point.

*If you look at the trigger/cylinder stop with the trigger fully forward, you'll notice a finger on the front of the trigger that rests in a notch of the cylinder stop. The lower side of the finger pulls the cylinder stop down to allow the cylinder to start to rotate-DO NOT TOUCH THIS. If you watch the trigger/stop motion through a cycle, you'll see the upper surface of the finger rubs against a ramp on the cylinder stop when returning to the full forward position. No more than 2 light strokes of a stone on the top edge of the finger will remove any burrs. Then inspect the finish on the cylinder stop ramp. Should be smooth.

 

[BUSHPILOT267]

Quick fix

The rebound trigger spring with possibly the most often thing cut too short in an action job.

A fix for this is to find a washer which will fit the hole in the rebound bar. You ususally have to file it to make it fit.

Put the washer in the hole, then put the spring in and see if that does the trick. Might take two washers if too many coils are missing.

Hope this helps.

 

[TAC]

Another fine S&W firearm falls victim to a kitchen table gunsmith...sad.

Call S&W, they'll send you a new spring.

 

[judge]

Drop in a new spring (18lbs.) or you might get by with a 16 lbs. spring. Either one should do the trick.

 

[pinkymingeo]

We're talking a two-buck spring, not a Shakespearean tragedy. The stock spring has flattened coils on both ends. Looks finished. A shortened spring will likely have different looking ends. Lighter springs may not provide enough return force when using the stock mainspring. Try backing-off the strain screw. You might be happy with the results.

 

[shawn mccarver]

Just picked up a 25-2 for a decent price since the only issue with the item was that the trigger not returning all the way after firing. After squeezing the trigger and letting up, the trigger fails to return the last 10% of its range. A slight tap and it snaps back in place.

After removing all the internals and cleaning out the inside the issue still exists.

It does appear that the rebound spring needs to be replaced.

First, is it common that a rebound spring would ever need to be replaced?

Second, how to tell if its worn as it was pretty darn hard getting it back in place?

Third, could another part be bent and causing too much friction? If so, what are the more common parts fall under this category? (I didn't see any issue.)

Fourth, is any aftermarket spring capable or is there a spring specific to the 25-2 model?

Finally, is there a preferred "pound" spring? Is lighter or heavier better?

I would first check the rebound spring. They seem to last forever IF you can keep people from shortening them or replacing them with aftermarket junk to get a better trigger pull. So, call S&W and get a factory original rebound spring sent to you and replace the existing one.

If that is not it, the hand could be binding on the ratchet, but this is less likely, in my opinion, although I had it happen on a Bodyguard in the early 80s. S&Ws telephone solution for that was to tell me to dry fire it 500 times. I did and the problem resolved.

 

[dkees]

Ref. Bushpilot.......I've used this method and it does work. However, I could never find a washer that small and could never get a bigger washer filed correctly.

But, I found numerous nails have heads which fit exactly in the rebound slide. Cut off the heads with wire cutters and drop them (it) in.

 

[tomcatt51]

S&W actually has a spec for how much you can clip the rebound spring, something like 2 coils. I don't remember exactly. FWIW the free length of a stock K, L, N frame rebound spring is right at 1 5/32".

 

[SWBigBang]

Try backing-off the strain screw.

Hmmm, this actually helped.
Does this indicate that it was simply too tight?
Should the screw head be flush?
Or is this confirmation that it is a rebound spring issue?

 

[tomcatt51]

Hmmm, this actually helped.
Does this indicate that it was simply too tight?
Should the screw head be flush?
Or is this confirmation that it is a rebound spring issue?

Hold the trigger back and watch the hammer as you slowly let the trigger return (forward). The rebound slide has a ramp that moves the hammer back slightly as the trigger finishes moving forward. The rebound spring supplies the force to do this. You have to balance rebound spring and mainspring strengths. A lighter mainspring will allow a lighter rebound spring.

 

[500 Magnum Nut]

FWIW the free length of a stock K, L, N frame rebound spring is right at 1 5/32".

The factory J frame is shorter than the K L N X frame revolvers, 15 coils versus 17 coils. The new ones are blue in color and are rated for 18lbs.

 

[tomcatt51]

The factory J frame is shorter than the K L N X frame revolvers, 15 coils versus 17 coils. The new ones are blue in color and are rated for 18lbs.

The "blue" spring has a free length of ~1 1/32".

 

[David LaPell]

I recently replaced a trigger return spring on a Model 66 that was doing exactly what you described. Soon as the trigger return spring was replaced, the problem went away.

 

[SWBigBang]

I recently replaced a trigger return spring on a Model 66 that was doing exactly what you described. Soon as the trigger return spring was replaced, the problem went away.

I am keeping my fingers crossed.
A new spring is coming from S&W as we speak and will post back with the results.

 

[SWBigBang]

Got the new spring in today.
The old spring appears to be a tab bit shorter.
Replace the spring and now it works like it was fresh from the factory.

You people are awesome. It was great learning how to disassemble (and reassemble) the revolver, but most of all it is a great feeling to actually fix it.

Thanks for all your input.