So I picked up my first full size revolver

SubNine

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I picked up a lightly used 686-6+ from my local gun shop and it seems like a nice piece. The only thing I'm concerned about is the ILS engaging while at the range or heaven forbid when I really need it most. I've read a few stories about the ILS engaging on some other S&W revolvers and hope the same doesn't happen to me. I tried to look up a way to disable the lock and even managed to take down my 686 to have a look at the internals but seemed way too complicated for me. I wish S&W would offer their ILS as an optional feature. I have yet to shoot my new to me 686-6+ so only way I'll find out for sure is to shoot it at the range. It was between this one or the Ruger GP100. I hope I don't regret my decision in going with the 686, it feels like a high quality firearm.

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IMO you have a better chance of winning a million dollars from a lottery than to have your infernal lock engage on it's own.
The 686 is a great revolver and is a much better choice than the GP100.
 
Despite the hype, I think ILS malfunction is VERY rare and I'm skeptical that it has ever happened in a gun like the 686.

The prime culprits have been the 11-12oz scandium framed revolvers firing .357s. Their recoil is so sharp that they are the ones to suspect in failures. Don
 
Every confirmed case I have seen of lock malfunction has been with the airweight and lighter alloy-framed revolvers. I think the odds of it happening with the steel-framed revlvers is vanishingly small.
 
If it helps I a have 638-3 with the IL. I've tried my best with very hot Buffalo Bore loads to get it to engage and it works fine, no unintentional locking. I have no reservation about carrying it.
 
First off, welcome.

Second, you bought a great revolver. I bought the GP100 and while I love it, I still want that same 686+ at some point. Trust me, it's a full fledged disease/addiction...

Third:

http://smith-wessonforum.com/accessories-misc-sale-trade/143299-fs-plug.html

Forth, if I can figure it out, and multiple times at that, anyone can do it. I'm no genius.

Proof:

2011-06-09_17-16-21_500.jpg


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He has a link to a YouTube video showing how it is done. I helped myself out ahead of time and bought some small picks from Sears to help out.

Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more

They have come in handy for all sorts of projects. The little spring loaded pitchfork looking part was easy to remove using a pick. As for taking all the parts out to get to them, follow the video or take a digital camera pic every step of the way. Make sure you have a good set of hollow ground bits or drivers for pulling the screws. Don't be the next latest guy to bugger screws.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/cid=0/k=bit+set/t=P/ksubmit=y/Products/All/search=bit_set

And slap some Ahrends wood on that bad boy!!!

Ahrends Grips : Home

My latest:

2011-06-17_20-49-44_588.jpg


And they won't be my last!!!
 
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the smith will always be worth more than the ruger, and you made the same decision i would have made.

that being said, i own and have a lot of respect for ruger products!:)
 
IMO you have a better chance of winning a million dollars from a lottery than to have your infernal lock engage on it's own.
The 686 is a great revolver and is a much better choice than the GP100.

Despite the hype, I think ILS malfunction is VERY rare and I'm skeptical that it has ever happened in a gun like the 686.

The prime culprits have been the 11-12oz scandium framed revolvers firing .357s. Their recoil is so sharp that they are the ones to suspect in failures. Don

Every confirmed case I have seen of lock malfunction has been with the airweight and lighter alloy-framed revolvers. I think the odds of it happening with the steel-framed revlvers is vanishingly small.

If it helps I a have 638-3 with the IL. I've tried my best with very hot Buffalo Bore loads to get it to engage and it works fine, no unintentional locking. I have no reservation about carrying it.

Revolvers CAN Fail: Smith & Wesson Performance Center 686 Locks Up | The Truth About Guns

I guess he should have bought a lottery ticket instead... :(

I will always remove mine. And as long as Bullseye Smith sells them, I will buy the "Plug" from him. It's too easy, it looks better, and you should learn the internals of your guns anyways and have no fear of pulling parts. IMHO, of course.
 
Thank you, Bob, for posting that video so that those with their heads burried in the sand can see....
 
Bob has it right.

Despite all the assurances from the experts here and elsewhere, it does happen and it is apparently not so rare. At least a couple of us on this forum have had it happen, before removing the lock. That's not "I heard it on the Internet" info, at least for me personally.

I'll repeat this in a bit more detail, although posted before: A couple months ago, after buying my brand new 649, it solidly locked up on the range at least twice during the first ten shots. That's twice, not once. I couldn't cock it with my thumb, and I could not get the trigger to move very far for DA. After fiddling with it, and opening the cylinder and closing it, and trying to move the hammer and trigger, it started to function again both times. I had the lock out by the end of that evening.

Was I using .357s? Nope. For my first test shooting, I was a bit leery of the recoil, so I was using standard .38 Spl. service loads, not even hot ones. I think the problem was mechanical, not related to recoil.

I had heard about this problem, but never expected to have it happen with my own brand new gun.

In any event, with the main lock piece gone and my blank button filling the hole, the problem is history. The modified gun is wonderful. And the parts can be reinstalled if ever I sell it and have to comply with some new rule requiring such guns to be restored to original defective condition before sale. :rolleyes:

When I opened the gun to remove the lock, I checked to make sure the malfunction could not have been caused by a burr of metal, manufacturing debris, or something missed during final inspection. There were no other problems. Had there been, I think I would have caught it. I've worked on, and rebuilt, a lot of Smiths over the years.

So with the lock removed, all you folks don't need to wonder whether the odds of such a malfunction are 1 out of 2, or 1 out of 20,000,000. The odds become zero.

And that's nice to know at 2 A.M., when a big hairy illiterate named Buster, just out of the slammer and drug rehab, is shining a flashlight in your wife's sleepy eyes in the bedroom.
 
I sat down this evening and managed to take apart my 686+ and removed the flag but left the black thing that locks the ILS. I feel better knowing for sure it will never lock up on me at the range or when I need it most. Usually I can take things apart okay, but putting them back together is another story. The 686 was pretty easy to reassemble! I feel accomplished! :D

Thanks guys!
 
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