New(to me)642, 1st 5 shots.

TNFrank

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Well, took the new to me 642 out back and put 5 rounds through it just to see how it'd hit. 1st shot was in the bull, dropped the next two then put the last two back in the bull. Need to do more shooting with this neat little pistol. Shots were at 3 yards, off hand using Remington UMC, 158gr LRN.
It normally takes me a couple times out to get use to a new gun, 3 out of 5 in the bull makes me think I've really got a winner here.
Should shoot even better when I get my Wolff spring kit installed and get my Hip Grips on it.
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Good shooting, these little guns are capeable of more accuracy than I can wring out of them. Just one note of caution; after you install the Wolf springs test fire to ensure no light strikes. I've read that spring changes can cause this (I'm no expert). FWIW I don't change anything on a SD weapon beyond grips, but change lots of stuff on range guns.

Enjoy, you have on of S&W's best.
 
The thing that I can't understand is how S&W can get their fixed sighted guns to hit POA so well. I had a M13, 4" that was also dead on, POA, just line up the sights and that's where it hit. Looks like this gun is the same way, bullet hits where the sights are. I really think I'm going to love this little gun.:rolleyes:
 
Just one note of caution; after you install the Wolf springs test fire to ensure no light strikes. I've read that spring changes can cause this (I'm no expert).

I'm no expert either so please don't hold me to this, but for the last few weeks I've done extensive research on spring changes, specifically to the J Frames and the consensus seems to be that switching out to lighter springs is best done after cleaning up the action some (lightly polishing the friction surfaces.) Either that or wait until the gun has been cycled quite a few times to "wear in" the action.

The springs S&W installs are technically heavier than they really need to be but, from what I understand, it's their way of making sure that the gun goes bang every time in spite of any rough surfaces generated by the manufacturing process.

Lighter springs may not be able to overcome the friction on rougher actions and can result in light primer strikes, sluggish trigger re-set, or both. It seems that after the action has smoothed up the problems associated with installing light springs are minimal.

I would also recommend using snap caps if doing a lot of dry firing. While doing all my searching & reading I came across firing pin, firing pin spring & bushing related issues that were more than likely caused by dry firing without supporting the firing pin.

I'm currently in the process of polishing up the actions on our J Frames & installing lighter springs. On the first two I've done, both 642's, I used the Apex "Carry/Duty" Kits but the rest will be done using Wolff Springs.

Prior to the smoothing up & spring changes my wife's 642 Pro maxed out my Lyman Digital Trigger Pull Gauge (max 12 lbs) and afterwards averaged a hair over 10 lbs. No light strikes as of yet but I'm still in the testing stage. I will say this, the trigger on my wife's gun was horrible, heavy, catchy, you name it, and now it's at least smooth, well, let's say smoother. Being a rookie at these things I'm taking it slow & easy with my polishing work.
 
Yep, you do need to polish up some of the internal parts to get a good, smooth DA pull. I've worked on more S&W revolvers then just about any other type of gun, I've very comfortable pulling one apart to smooth it out. I always stone the DA parts and the sides of the hammer and the part that the trigger spring fits into(can't think of the name right off) to give it a nicer trigger pull. I'll try to get out later this week weather permitting and put a few more rounds thru her to see how it works after the "fluff and buff" and spring swap. ;)
 
Just wish I'd not pulled those two out of the bulleye.:(

That's some good shooting for a j frame. They take a while to master for sure. I'm lucky to get that at 21 ft. I learned I have to bury the front sight in the groove of the back and put target in the gap since the front sight is way higher than the back groove. I never could hit worth a darn with mine till I read about how the sights line up on these.
 
That's some good shooting for a j frame. They take a while to master for sure. I'm lucky to get that at 21 ft. I learned I have to bury the front sight in the groove of the back and put target in the gap since the front sight is way higher than the back groove. I never could hit worth a darn with mine till I read about how the sights line up on these.

If I read the op correctly he was shooting at 3 yards= 9 feet
you are shooting at twice the distance 7 yards= 21 feet
That is about the range I like to practice at, & I think I can get a lot more out of the 442, msn
 
I normally shoot at 7 yards but because this was a new gun I wanted to try it a bit closer. Truth be told a lot of shootings take place at 3 yards so practice at that range is good too I guess.
Once I get her slicked up I'll take it back out and give her a try at 7 yards to see what I can do.
 
They shoot good with 158 gr. standard vel. point of aim. The lighter bullets like the 125gr. shoot lower. I carry 158 lswc in mine and shoot the same for target. Accurate with good penatration to reach the vitals. Even if the perp is in winter garments. It will perform in the short 17/8" barrel.
 
the only problem i see here is you only have one j-frame! you'll get the bug for sure now... i currently own a 36, 60, 442, 638, & 637. it's a bug that's hard to cure!
 
I would shoot it a while before changing any springs or anything else. Mine smoothed up a bunch after a few trips to the range and some dry fire. It will put shot after shot on a 10" paper plate at 15 yards all day.
 
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