Just one note of caution; after you install the Wolf springs test fire to ensure no light strikes. I've read that spring changes can cause this (I'm no expert).
I'm no expert either so please don't hold me to this, but for the last few weeks I've done extensive research on spring changes, specifically to the J Frames and the consensus seems to be that switching out to lighter springs is best done after cleaning up the action some (lightly polishing the friction surfaces.) Either that or wait until the gun has been cycled quite a few times to "wear in" the action.
The springs S&W installs are technically heavier than they really need to be but, from what I understand, it's their way of making sure that the gun goes bang every time in spite of any rough surfaces generated by the manufacturing process.
Lighter springs may not be able to overcome the friction on rougher actions and can result in light primer strikes, sluggish trigger re-set, or both. It seems that after the action has smoothed up the problems associated with installing light springs are minimal.
I would also recommend using snap caps if doing a lot of dry firing. While doing all my searching & reading I came across firing pin, firing pin spring & bushing related issues that were more than likely caused by dry firing without supporting the firing pin.
I'm currently in the process of polishing up the actions on our J Frames & installing lighter springs. On the first two I've done, both 642's, I used the Apex "Carry/Duty" Kits but the rest will be done using Wolff Springs.
Prior to the smoothing up & spring changes my wife's 642 Pro maxed out my Lyman Digital Trigger Pull Gauge (max 12 lbs) and afterwards averaged a hair over 10 lbs. No light strikes as of yet but I'm still in the testing stage. I will say this, the trigger on my wife's gun was horrible, heavy, catchy, you name it, and now it's at least smooth, well, let's say smoother. Being a rookie at these things I'm taking it slow & easy with my polishing work.