Model 65 3" in action (video) (NEW VID 12/03)

LonChaney

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I decided to improve my revolver shooting skills over the next year. So I bought a 3" S&W Model 65 to carry and shoot in local matches. I havent ever seriously studied the revolver so some of this is new to me. Especially the speed reloads. Still trying to decide which revolver reload technique I like. Here's some crappy video from the second match I've shot:

1126 stage 1 - YouTube

1126 stage2 - YouTube

In the first video, I'm using Jet Loaders primarily and obviously struggling with them. In the second video, I switched to my Safariland Comp III loaders. I like them better. I still have ALOT to learn. Lotsa fun though.
 
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Very cool

Nice job. Very cool. Hope you get the speed loaders down. I used to use Safariland way back in the late 70s, simple push to drop the rounds into the cylinder. I can imagine things have improved since :rolleyes:
 
Hi:
Looking Good !
FWIW: My #5 Son's Agency still issues revolvers (S&W M15). The method for reloading is keeping the weapon in the firing hand and drawing the speedloader and reloading with the weak/off hand..
1. The revolver is kept in the firing hand, cylinder opened, muzzle pointed up, weak hand ejects empties, muzzle pointed down, weak hand draws speedloader from off side, weapon loaded, weak hand drops empty speedloader and closes cylinder.
The plus of of this method (i think) is the firing grip is continued in place.
I was trained your way, and too old to learn a new method.
 
Either reloading method works. One thing keeping the gun in your strong hand does is make it easier to keep the guns' muzzle downrange.

Watch the first video, you broke the "180" several times. The RO was standing in the wrong place to see it.

Reloading with your strong hand let's you multi-task. You're ejecting rounds while you're grabbing the next speedloader. With a weak hand reload you're doing everything in order. Strong hand reload you can have the speedloader in hand and in position as the emptys clear the chambers.
 
Either way, work on the reloads. Glad you had fun. Tomcatt51, I don't see any 180 violations? Try both reloading techniques but realize that no matter how you do it, you want the motion to be fluid and the stroke on the ejector rod needs to be firm enough to kick out empties.
 
if i can make a suggestion

Great video.

As stated earlier, practice reloading with empties. I practice reloading by using snap caps.

After the rounds are in the cylinder, just drop the speed loader. Let gravity take over.

Good Luck,
 
I was close to the 180, but not past it. I'm very conscious of the 180 since I've had to DQ some guys in bigger matches for violating it (been doing this almost 20 years now).

As far as equipment goes, the speed loader carriers are the Safariland ones here:
CD-2 Holder : SPEEDLOADER HOLDER | Brownells

The holster is a Don Hume Jit Slide. It was cheap and available. Still figuring out which kydex OWB holster I want to go with.

Ammo is 132gr FMJ PMC I got a good deal on (bought a case).

My buddy has more experience with the revolver and he showed me a reloading technique I'm gonna try. I forget what he called it, but I think it's the same one Jerry Miculek uses/teaches. We will see how it works when I get to the range next week. I'm gonna use my snap caps and practice it over the next few days. I think part of the problem I'm having is that I am not keeping the muzzle down enough to let gravity help once the speed loader release is tripped.

I'll post some more video next week after the match.
 
I use basically the same set up. I like the JIT holster, but would like something kydex too. Was hoping you'd already found one you liked.
 
I was close to the 180, but not past it.
Check the first video at around 19 seconds, muzzle swings back left, and at about 29 seconds, muzzle is back past verticle. I reload strong hand with speedloaders also, unfortunately it's easy to flick the muzzle where you don't mean to. May not break 180, my laptop definitely does not have "state of the art" video.

I like cut down Jetloaders. The body gets .300" trimmed off and the center post (release) gets cut .125". Trimming the body helps get the rds all the way into the chambers, they can't hang in the body. By trimming the center post (release), the rds go farther into the chambers before the speedloader "trips". Both help.
 
I shoot my 3" 65 in ICORE and I use a Blade Tech holster. Secure but easy to draw from.
 
Back when I first started in law enforcement, very few officers carried speed loaders. "Magnum Force" impressed me so much that I bought the equipment and taught myself to use it. Back then it was the Dade speedloaders. The last type I carried were the Safariland, the later ones with the larger knobs.

Teach yourself to load with the weak hand. Carry the loaders on your left side. I noticed you looked away from your target while you loaded. Its okay to glance, but your attention is drawn to the loading process far too long. I realize you are new to this and I applaude you for your interest and diligence, but your speed and efficiencey will increase/improve if you learn to reload this way. I know this from carrying and using the equipment in my line of work. I was also a chief firearms instructor for my department for many years. Good Luck, have fun and keep practicing. Your efforts will be rewarded! ;)
 
JM's videos on the S&W sight are helpful, and you could consider having the cylinder on your 65 machined and chamfered to use moon clips.

I have considered this, but I decided against it for one reason: i want to improve my skills to make me a better instructor. I teach alot of CCW classes and while many of the students show up with speed loaders, none have shown up with moon clip revolvers. So I figured I would stick with speed loaders for now. I actually came real close to having the cylinder redone to shoot 9mm/moon clips since all my semi autos are 9mm, but decided against that as well.

I've been having so much fun with this I've thought about getting a 627 Pro to use at matches (thinking about shooting ICORE). Have to wait and see.
 
Your third video looks smoother. I couldn't see your left hand clearly or see if you were holding the cylinder still while using your speedloader. I always have to do this with speedloaders that require turning a knob to release the rounds.

Here is how I was taught to use the strong hand reloading technique with speedloaders.
1. Push cylinder release with the right thumb
2. As you're doing this move the palm of your left hand under the trigger guard and onto the right side of the revolver.
3. Place your end of your left index finger in the area where the top of the barrel meets the frame. Place your the end of your left little finger on the hammer spur.
4. Push out the cylinder with your middle and ring fingers.
5. Keeping your middle and ring fingers on the cylinder, turn the gun so the muzzle is up.
6. Give the end of the ejector rod a fast push with your left thumb to eject the rounds. Pull out your speedloader while doing this.
7. Turn muzzle down. load rounds in cylinder while steadying the cylinder with the ends of the middle and ring fingers.
8. As you raise the muzzle, slide left hand back under trigger guard. Close cylinder with the palm under your left thumb.
9. Put left hand on grip as you push gun out toward the next target, "marrying' the left hand and right hand together. As you get sight picture of your next target, put right index finger on trigger and start squeeze.

It is fast and easy if you're coordinated. I'm not.

Chris
 
Good description. Only thing I'd add is (item 5) "Keeping your middle and ring fingers on the cylinder, turn the gun so the muzzle is up." when you do this you're holding the cylinder with your middle and ring fingers (they go thru the cylinder window in the frame) and your thumb. Trigger guard is in your palm. The thumb and two fingers stabilize the cylinder and hold it open so you can hit the holes with the speedloadered rounds.
 
4 reloads and 24 shots while moving in 35 seconds is pretty good. I don't practice revolver reloading for speed yet, but if I did that 35 seconds would be something much better than I would initially 'shoot for' as I practiced. Nice job.
 
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