J frame not fun

I have taken a mill file to the front sight of my 642 to correct that problem. Of course, I am hosed if I plan to shoot anything other than 125 grains in the future. I guess that will be a good excuse to buy an XS sight system, eh?

BTW, I approached the front sight with great trepidiation. It is very, very easy to go toooo far with the file (don't ask me how I know).

Well, yeah, you can always do that. Much easier to shoot the heavier loads the factory sighted the gun in for, though.;)
 
Get some full-size B-27 targets , or make some torso-size targets from cardboard and practice instinctive (point) shooting at 10-15ft. Ya might also consider a set of Crimson Trace Laser grips.
 
Well, yeah, you can always do that. Much easier to shoot the heavier loads the factory sighted the gun in for, though.;)

This is where the practice comes in; presuming the gun is in good shape and basically accurate (each load hits in the same spot), you can learn the 'hold-off' to get good results with any load.
 
Here is that link I mentioned earlier, expert Jerry Miculek demonstrates how to use the best hand hold for the J frame for optimal control and accuracy. I have tried this with my 11 ounce 340PD J frame while firing full power .357 158 grain loads and it certainly helped, I did not get the severe muzzle flip I saw on youtube vids showing this gun being fired. I just noticed, this link does not have the video, there is also a video, but not in the link I provided. Here is a static demonstration and write up of Mr. Miculek's recommendations for the best way to handle a J frame. I'm sure a youtube search may provide you with a video.

MICULEK2

Hope this helps!
 
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This is where the practice comes in; presuming the gun is in good shape and basically accurate (each load hits in the same spot), you can learn the 'hold-off' to get good results with any load.

Well, of course, but the op is saying he can't hit anything with his revolver. Trying to hit something with ammo that you have to hold off on the target in order to hit the bullseye just compounds the problem. Much easier to use ammo that shoots exactly where he's pointing the gun. I can use 130 gr. ammo and hit the black and get good groups, but why should a shooter who is having problems have to compensate like that?
 
Well, of course, but the op is saying he can't hit anything with his revolver. Trying to hit something with ammo that you have to hold off on the target in order to hit the bullseye just compounds the problem. Much easier to use ammo that shoots exactly where he's pointing the gun. I can use 130 gr. ammo and hit the black and get good groups, but why should a shooter who is having problems have to compensate like that?

My opinion - "Can't hit anything" at 10-12 feet is not an ammo problem.



Sgt Lumpy
 
The J frame, especially the lightweight alloy framed ones, are a challenge to consistently shoot well. They demand practice and dedication to make their extra heavy factory trigger work without moving the gun around during the trigger stroke.

I've found with a little aftermarket trigger work and plenty of dry and live fire practice, I can generally hit what I intend to. These light gun are still "snappy" with +P rounds and run dry pretty quick compared to today's modern high-capacity wonders.

One other thought on the lightweight J frames... Unlike the generic internet "wisdom", I advise AGAINST giving one to the wife, girlfriend, or daughter. Yes, they are easy to carry and simple to operate, however they have left more than one new shooter with the thought that shooting isn't much fun.

Their snappy recoil is even snappier for smaller shooters, the flash and blast from the short barrel can be alarming, the short sight radius is hard to hit with, and the long heavy double action trigger pull isn't any lighter for smaller, weaker hands. Pick a compact or sub-compact semi-auto in 9mm and you'll have a new shooter who leaves the range with a smile.

Maybe the OP needs to try a mid-sized 9mm??

Just one man's opinion.

Edmo
 
I carry a 940 with HOT ammo. Bad side is it also kicks like a Mule. When I range shoot I put on my PAST shooting glove to cushion it a bit. If you are a golfer a golf glove would help a LITTLE ( not enough palm padding) but will help a bit. The PAST gloves are cheap.
 
Well, of course, but the op is saying he can't hit anything with his revolver. Trying to hit something with ammo that you have to hold off on the target in order to hit the bullseye just compounds the problem. Much easier to use ammo that shoots exactly where he's pointing the gun. I can use 130 gr. ammo and hit the black and get good groups, but why should a shooter who is having problems have to compensate like that?

Wups, I don't think I commented clearly. In my experience, the points of impact of different loads is pretty close from my M49, so that tiny difference can be easily compensated for. In fact, AT THE RANGE, I am about equally accurate with any load at 'combat' range. If the sights are WAY off, then the gun definitely needs to be looked at!
 
I recently acquired a Smith 642 .38. It is a difficult gun to master. Took me 3 trips to the range and a grip change to a full finger rubber grip to really get comfortable with the small frame revolver. Most important thing I found is to have a really firm grip. These small light guns kick hard. I also place the thumb of my off hand over my firing hand behind the backstrap and press down to keep the recoil from affecting the shot.
 
In response to suggestions made by another member in an earlier post, I have never worked with a fellow firearms instructor who suggested taking a "death grip" on any handgun stocks. To the contrary, I have been taught that doing so would constrict circulation to the fingers, and cause excessive fatigue and loss of fine motor control in fingers. A firm grip is all that is necessary, and mild loads for the J Frame will be easily controlled with a firm grip during practice.

...

I think that is true, but I would add, use a two handed grip, and about 75-80% of the holding force should be from the off-hand, not the trigger hand. I also find it better to contact trigger at the first joint or even a bit further up, not on the pad of the first segment. But I have long hands.
Practice is the key, they can be huge fun, and very very accurate. It is up to you.
 
snip... I also place the thumb of my off hand over my firing hand behind the backstrap and press down to keep the recoil from affecting the shot.
I like to place the thumb of the off hand right against the recoil shield, pointing down range, over my trigger hand thumb which is pointing down range.
 
9dcd0a14.jpg

This is the grip I use on my 642. I believe this is the same grip revolver champion Jerry Miculek uses when firing small frames. I find placing the thumb behind the gun over the firing hand and applying pressure helps counter the recoil effect and keeps the barrel from popping up when firing. Also, using this grip will prevent the cylinder release latch from thrashing your thumb when firing.
 
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Dry fire, dry fire and dry fire more, several thousand times. These small, lightweight guns are not for extended range use. (25 or 30 rounds "before" anything else and then put it away.)
I have a 442 that is as accurate as any of my 1911's at 7, 10, or 15 yards. However, when I set a couple of paper plates out at 50 yards, I can hit it 4 out of 5 shots with the 442. I cannot do that with any of my 1911's
It is probably you and not the gun. Practise, practise and practise.
SIDENOTE: I carry that 442 nearly every day, nearly everywhere and have done so for many years.
 
On range day, I make it a point to put at least 100 rounds through my carry snubby. I've found that the crossed thumb 2 handed grip works best for me. I've tried the Miculek grip, it didn't agree with my arthritic left thumb.
 

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The most common handgun shooting problems are associated with the anticipation of recoil. Try loading one empty case and four cartridges. Rotate the cylinder, or have a shooting buddy load the revolver, so that you don't know when the hammer is going to fall on the empty. You will be able to tell if you are flinching or jerking the trigger.
 
I recommend this J-Frame full finger synthetic grip available in the S & W store.

J_Grip.jpg

Helped me tame my .38 snubbie. The exposed back strap with the stock grip used to bite my hand. This rubber grip helps give a better hold, covers the backstrap, & looks great. It's only slightly longer and wider then the stock boot grip and so may prevent some concealment, but that's the price you pay for comfort and shoot-ability. I can now shoot 100 rounds and not have throbbing pain in the webbing of my hand for the next few days.
 
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The weapon is intended for use at about ten feet and under. If by can't hit anything you mean you didn't hit the target you probably have some serious issues with technique. Otherwise, just keep shooting. Think of it as the type of weapon you will shoot at point blank range with the mussel buried in belly fat or stuck into an armpit as you pull the BGs head to the side. Hang in there.
 

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