Hammer Shroud grips *update* for a Model 3 DA?

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Update, see post 4. I'm baffled.

I think these are some sort of S&W round butt shrouded hammer grips. Am I correct in that assessment?

Anyone recognize the work? I've only really seen the Bianchi rubber grips that did something similar to these, wondering if I've just been missing it when these come up or if they are as interesting to everyone else as they are to me.







 
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Are they the right size for a J-Frame? They look well made, even if they are a bit beat up. Looks like someone put some time and effort into them. Where'd you find those?
 
Are they the right size for a J-Frame? They look well made, even if they are a bit beat up. Looks like someone put some time and effort into them. Where'd you find those?

I don't know, I don't have them in hand. I just got them off of Ebay. They were labeled "UNIDENTIFIED MILITARY WOOD GRIPS POSSIBLY MACHINE GUN "

Here's the last picture from them:



I figured at $2.25 + $6.00 shipping they were worth a gamble, and that I would be happy with them just as an example of wood carving. I love overly complicated crazy old wooden grips.
 
Definitely interesting. Also definitely not for a S&W Hand Ejector on any frame size. Possibly for a S&W top-break like a .38 Double Action. Note that there is nowhere for the thumbpiece of a hand-ejector! The thumbpiece would have to be removed to install them and the stocks would then have to be removed to reload the revolver! Not too practical.
 
Well, I guess it will be very interesting to get into the safe and figure out what they go too. I thought they were post war because of the lack of an indentation for the convex screw, I was totally not thinking top break. Good eye.
 
I'd say so, yes. And just look at the fit! How'd you figure this out?

Open Safe

Try K-Frame... no good, I frame? No good. Little top break .38 S&W with a hammer that I always forget the name of? No good.

Well dang, what else could it be, the shape is right, the size for K frame is about right but it doesn't fit because the...

Pull out Model 3 double action... well what do you know?

All that said, it doesn't fit quite right. I think the holes for the (whatever you call that bit at the bottom of the frame that keeps the stocks on) pin doesn't seem to be deep enough.

The tops fit great, but it doesn't completely fit over the butt of the gun. I think I just need to deepen the holes, but before I started messing with them I kind of wanted to get some input from the guys on this forum (or the antiques forum I guess) as to the possible maker/vintage. Or something.

I'm way out of my depth here, I only recently bought the Model 3, it was just luck I happened to have it in the safe.
 
That's just way, way cool.

Thanks for moving the thread.

I agree that it's cool, but... what.. is it? Who made it? When?

I'm generally pretty content with things just being cool, well made, neat, and a mystery. This set is driving me absolutely bananas though. I'm really hoping someone has some answers for me on this set in the antiques thread here.
 
Minus a maker's mark or other distinguishing characteristic(s), it's doubtful we'll ever know who made them. You've got to consider that back when they were produced, men skilled in crafts like woodworking were as common as computer programmers are today and it was nothing for a guy who wanted custom grips to go out back and fashion a set himself.

Grips being a big part of what I do, I see a lot of these one-offs and sometimes you've just got to be happy some are preserved and found in good shape without ever knowing much more about them.
 
This set is driving me absolutely bananas though.

Do you need to borrow some of my problems?
I got better ones than that. :D

I'd say some guy wanted a snagless hammer. I doubt we'll ever know more than that. I've been watching grips for quite a few decades, and I've never seen anything like em.
 
Just a minor point of interest. Either the revolver in the photos is a .38 DA, 2nd Model (sn ~4001 - 119,000) or the cylinder has been replaced on a .38 DA 3rd Model (sn 119001+). The cylinder with two cylinder stops and the "free" groove was discontinued with the 2nd Model .38 DA.
 
Mystery...solved?


....
I'm way baffled now, I thought they were post war, but to go on a 3rd Model Double Action?

But, when loading these older top breaks don't you need to pull the hammer back to the first click so that the hammer nose does not protrude through the recoil shield? Isn't there a possibility of discharge if you close the gun with the hammer all the way down - the possibility of a primer striking the hammer tip when snapped closed? Without a rebounding hammer it would seem injudicious to use these, perhaps ahead of their time. Or can you manipulate the hammer enough through the gap at the top to get it to the first click?

Nifty find though!
 
But, when loading these older top breaks don't you need to pull the hammer back to the first click so that the hammer nose does not protrude through the recoil shield? Isn't there a possibility of discharge if you close the gun with the hammer all the way down - the possibility of a primer striking the hammer tip when snapped closed? . . .

I have owned 44 DAs in the past and I recall never raising the hammer to open the gun. I believe it is the same as the New Model 3, with a rebounding hammer that retracts to the face of the recoil shield after firing and letting go of the trigger.
 
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