What's the best way to lighten the trigger pull on a M340PD?

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I have had a M340PD for a few years now. It is by backup gun, and lives constantly in my left (non dominant side) pocket. The trigger pull on it is really heavy. I can work it left handed, but it's pretty hard. I have heard some people have bought aftermarket spring kits for J-Frames. Anybody have any experience with this model?
I want to make sure it is TOTALLY reliable though.
Jim
 
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Rhetorician Response and Question

P&R Fan said:
I have had a M340PD for a few years now. It is by backup gun, and lives constantly in my left (non dominant side) pocket. The trigger pull on it is really heavy. I can work it left handed, but it's pretty hard. I have heard some people have bought aftermarket spring kits for J-Frames. Anybody have any experience with this model?
I want to make sure it is TOTALLY reliable though.
Jim
Click to expand...

P&R Fan,

I must chime in here too with the same question about a Model 360PD, a cousin or brother of your 340. I too want to know what can be done about the trigger pull.

The way I got into this mess is that I bought the Ruger LCR 357 before the Smith. And I have come to think that that was the "industry standard." But of course is it not!!!

I know all of the talk about a good, light J Frame needs a hard trigger pull for safety and all. But I surely do hate having a $1000 gun and not be able to hit anything with it because of the trigger.

I just suppose I only have two options: Shoot it enough to get better with it OR have a "trigger job" done on it.

I look forward to yours and other insights.

rd
 
I've tinkered with the J-frames. I don't like the results spring swaps yield unless there's compelling physiological need to really reduce pull, in which case the defense load better be well suited and tested a lightened hammer spring; in a J, I've found no meaningful reduction in trigger weight from a rebound spring swap.

Gentle, informed smoothing of all moving, load bearing components has been the ticket for me, along with the right grips, load, and regular practice.
 
The Wilson Spring Kit helps, but you need to smooth some of the internals to really get a better pull. If you haven't done this sort of thing before, it might be best to let a gunsmith do a trigger job for you.

I used the Wilson kit on both my 638 and the 342PD. The 638 came out really nice. The 342PD had a slow trigger return and I had to go back in and do some more smoothing. It's much better but still not as nice as the 638.
 
I have the Wolff J frame spring kit in both of my J's. 110% reliable & no expensive Gunsmithing. But, I have PD Policy I have to abide by. So if u have a good smith then have at it. The spring kits are a MUCH cheaper alternative.
 
I have a degenerative motor nerve condition and I was having a heck of a time shootin' my 442 with my right hand. The sides of barns were safe.
I changed to a Wolff 8 pound main spring and 11 pound rebound spring. While I had the gun apart I did a bit of smoothin' with an extra fine Arkansas oil stone. Reassembled and lubed.
I had already put a Pachmayr Compact grip on it to work better with my big hands.
I've never had a light strike with it. In fact it dents the primers deeper than a bone stock M66.
 
Polishing parts equals a smoother pull... Lighter springs equal a lighter pull. The two together give me the best results.

Lots of trigger time (live or dry) will do some polishing of the contact points and develop your trigger muscles making it feel lighter, even with factory springs.

If you lighten the hammer spring make sure it is still strong enough to fire the primers in your carry load.

Even with a perfectly polished and lightened trigger, the J-frames require a lot of practice to master their accuracy potential. The light weight J's are the hardest for me to master.

Edmo
 
Rhetorician Reply...

slabside2 said:
Just buy an LCR and be done with it.
Click to expand...

Slabside2,

I hope you and I do not get flamed by "I second that emotion" as the song goes.

I have a Model 360PD and it is about to kill me to learn how to shoot it. The Hi Viz Sight is all wrong, the trigger pull is terrible.

My problem is, I bought my first gun and it was the Ruger LCR 357 and boy is it smooth!!! I cannot for the life of me figure out why Smith cannot do as least as well as their number one competitor in the snubby market??

I know I will probably get flamed for this? Go figure?!!! :rolleyes: But I could not let it pass without saying something.

My two cents worth!;)
 
My $0.02 . . .

Polish rebound slide and contact surfaces in frame then LOTS and LOTS of dry fire practice with snap caps.
 
Rhetorician said:
...... I cannot for the life of me figure out why Smith cannot do as least as well as their number one competitor in the snubby market??.......
Click to expand...

The LCR is a "clean sheet" design. A smooth light trigger movement was the top priority from day one. They succeeded. It's got a great trigger.

The J-frame trigger is wed to a S&W design that over 100 years old. (Though the coil-spring main-spring is a newer addition). It's robust and time proven action, but I don't think it's possible to get it as light and smooth as a LCR.
 
I used the Apex kit in my new 340PD. I used high quality screwdrivers from Forstners, paper clip, rebound spring tool and a small pair of needle nose pliers. Easy but I was very nervous about performing surgery w/o any experience. I shouldn't have worried. With the right tools and good instructions from Apex it was a breeze. I'm very happy with the results but it wasn't immediately obvious. I've since fired a few hundred rounds through it and dry-fired several hundred times. The
combination of changing springs and wearing it in has resulted in a very sweet trigger. Maybe it's just me bragging cause I'm really liking this j-frame.
 
I put the JMiculek spring in my M&P 340 and it's just about right. The kit comes with 3 springs and I used the lightest and it breaks CCI primers just fine.
Tim:D
 
Rhetorician Resonse

SW340PD said:
I used the Apex kit in my new 340PD. I used high quality screwdrivers from Forstners, paper clip, rebound spring tool and a small pair of needle nose pliers. Easy but I was very nervous about performing surgery w/o any experience. I shouldn't have worried. With the right tools and good instructions from Apex it was a breeze. I'm very happy with the results but it wasn't immediately obvious. I've since fired a few hundred rounds through it and dry-fired several hundred times. The
combination of changing springs and wearing it in has resulted in a very sweet trigger. Maybe it's just me bragging cause I'm really liking this j-frame.
Click to expand...

SW340PD,

I really do respect your opinion. But who wants to spende $1000 on a hand gun then have to do a "trigger job" "right out of the box?"

That is my point!!! or question as it may appear?

I am sure I will get flamed for "taking the name in vain!" :D

My thoughts!

Yours?

rd
 
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