Loose cylinder on a model 28-2 6in

[lsalisbury]

Had my 28-2 out of the safe the other day and while checking the timing (first time checked in 30yrs for this one) noticed a lot of looseness (slop) while rotating the cylinder. End play seems to be marginal. I'm not sure how long it's been this way. Also have some spitting issues. The bottom of the top strap in the area between the cylinder and frame looks like laser engraving. I have used +P+ rounds in this gun. Any suggestions to remedy the issues?
My HP is in 95%+ condition with some minor holster wear at the muzzle. I have added the factory Goncalo target stocks along with the big target hammer and trigger. My concern is if I devalued the gun by doing this. I kept the original trigger/hammer and magnas just in case. Looks are fantastic with the combo. The favorite in my collection.

 

[stantheman86]

Define "slop", S&W's for the most part, all have some sideplay on lockup.

If it spits lead, then it's out of spec and unsafe. What kind of spitting issues does it have? Make sure it's not just spitting carbon or just doesn't like certain ammo, i.e. LRN or some certain brands of ammo may do funny things in your gun.

Used 28's are going up in value but no one is retiring to Aspen on selling used 28's, so if the TH and TT make you happier with it, I say leave them in.

S&W may be able to repair the gun if it's out of spec or unsafe, but they don't have parts for the older guns. I don't know if S&W would be able to fit the crane and cylinder assembly for the new "Classic" 27 model, if they even make those guns anymore and have parts for them. They may even fix it for free if you ask them nicely, if you're the original owner.

 

[k22fan]

[...] noticed a lot of looseness (slop) while rotating the cylinder. End play seems to be marginal. [...] Also have some spitting issues. The bottom of the top strap in the area between the cylinder and frame looks like laser engraving. I have used +P+ rounds in this gun. Any suggestions to remedy the issues? [...] I have added [...] target hammer and trigger. [...]

Welcome to the forum.

Usually hammers and triggers are drop in parts but not always. Changing triggers can make small differences in timing and changing hammers can affect trigger pull. I'd start by reinstalling the original parts and see if that doesn't correct every thing.

Only test rotational play with the trigger held all the way back. Rotational play is reduced and timing or carry up advanced by installing an over size hand which is about a $15 part. Be sure the yoke is not moving forward in the frame before measuring end shake. The front side plate screw is a fitted part. Usually the end of the round head screw that was fitted for the yoke was ground off slightly and the round head screw that belongs behind the trigger guard was not. Changing the front side plate screw can make swinging out the yoke stiff or allow the yoke to move slightly forward and back in the frame. Excessive end shake can be eliminated two different ways. Either install end shake washers between the end of the yoke tube and cylinder or stretch the yoke tube. S&W would stretch the yoke tube. It is normal for magnum cartridge gasses to etch a line in the bottom of the top strap over the barrel cylinder gap. Eventually erosion turns the line into a small trench. This is called flame cutting. This does not hurt anything except value. It is just the normal wear and tear from firing a lot of magnum cartridges.

SAMMI maximum average pressure for .38 Special +P is 20,000 psi, way bellow the .357 magnum's 35,000 psi. There is no industry standard for .38 Special +P+ and SAMMI does not uses pluses to describe .357 pressures.