If You Were Going to Buy Your Very 1st J-Frame What Would You Pick?

[625-7]

I've a flatlatch airweight that was Fitzed. I Rebarreled and rehammered it, cannot fix the trigger guard. Bought it from a friend who was dying of cancer and paid too much for it but for a good cause. If I was to purchase a J frame otherwise a blue humpback may quench my thirst.

 

[Wee Hooker]

With the general info given. I'd vote 638. I does everything a snubbie could do pretty darn well without being specialized. Darn pretty too!

 

[JohnRippert]

I would pick exactly what I bought for my first J-frame, an all steel Model 36.

 

[paragain]

I would choose my model 36-1 3" a great piece!

 

[shouldazagged]

I own and carry an early (1990) 640 in .38 Special, and don't really see a lot of advantage to a J-frame .357 Magnum. I also don't see the desirability of single-action capability in a defensive gun designed for up-close business encounters.

For self-defense carry I'd suggest the 640, but for your first ever J a 60 might be good for acclimating yourself to shooting a revolver that size.

 

[wrangler5]

I own and carry an early (1990) 640 in .38 Special, and don't really see a lot of advantage to a J-frame .357 Magnum. < snip >

I've switched from carrying a 638 to a 640-1. I don't carry Magnums in it, but the extra 1/4" of ejector rod throw almost fully extracts a 38 case. It may be a small benefit, but it's one I'm willing to put up with a bit of extra length and weight in the gun to get.

 

[OLDSTER]

J-Frame

IMHO this is J-Frame light weight perfection. Of my 3 Js ( also a 642 and 637) this is my favorite; 360J scandium

 

[Frank V]

I would pick exactly what I bought for my first J-frame, an all steel Model 36.

That's what I'd buy too, probably cheaper than a new one & NO LOCK!
Win win!

 

[TAC]

The 442, is small, light, plentiful, and not too expensive.

 

[Blue9]

If I could only have one j-frame or was buying my first it would be the 638. I love that little revolver. Do listen to any concern about the hammer and debris. Just blow it out ever now and then. In my experience it goes bang every time, and you have a SA option if ever needed.

Second option would be a model 60 since it can fire 357 and has more heft. That, for me, is a distant second since j frames are carry guns first and foremost.

 

[barristerr]

Super useful thread, as I'm looking into my first J-frame.

I think I'm close to going with the 442, but am curious as to thoughts about whether the performance center model is worthwhile. Looks like I can grab one for $400, so for the extra $50 bucks or so it seems to make sense to me but wanted to know what others had to say.

Also a dumb question, but I think it comes without the lock in that model, but if not would you consider that a deal breaker and just get the standard 442 or 642 without the lock?

 

[dubshooter]

Super useful thread, as I'm looking into my first J-frame.

I think I'm close to going with the 442, but am curious as to thoughts about whether the performance center model is worthwhile. Looks like I can grab one for $400, so for the extra $50 bucks or so it seems to make sense to me but wanted to know what others had to say.

Also a dumb question, but I think it comes without the lock in that model, but if not would you consider that a deal breaker and just get the standard 442 or 642 without the lock?

My take on it? It depends. What's your budget like?

If that 50 bucks puts you to your limit, I would not spend it. $50 can get you a nice holster or some ammo.

If it won't break the bank, I say spring extra $50 for no lock and the moon clips. Why? I prefer the looks of a no lock. But my 649 has a lock. I don't carry extra rounds in a moon clip, but I like the positive extraction of all my rounds at once. Especially on qualification day when I have to do empty gun reload. Keeps my brass together for collection. Wouldn't hurt in that one in a million chance you'd have to reload in a defensive situation.

Overall, I think you'd be happy with a 442. If you have the chance though, shoot one first and make sure you're ok with the airweight. A buddy wanted to but a Ruger LCR 9mm until he shot mine. 2 rounds and he was done. Everyone is different, so don't always listen to the internet guys who say "it's nothing. Rather pleasant actually". Check for yourself so you know for sure.

 

[TAC]

Super useful thread, as I'm looking into my first J-frame.

I think I'm close to going with the 442, but am curious as to thoughts about whether the performance center model is worthwhile. Looks like I can grab one for $400, so for the extra $50 bucks or so it seems to make sense to me but wanted to know what others had to say.

Also a dumb question, but I think it comes without the lock in that model, but if not would you consider that a deal breaker and just get the standard 442 or 642 without the lock?

With regards to the "Performance Center" version, save your money. Spend it on ammo for practice, or a holster. After shooting a couple hundred rounds, you probably couldn't tell the difference. If the trigger pull is still too heavy for you, you could drop in a slightly lighter hammer spring.

Don't fret about the lock, they key hole is a good place to put a couple drops of light oil now and then!

 

[barristerr]

Not so much a money issue at all as to the $50. I do like the idea of a stainless steel cylinder over the long term for the few extra bucks, at that point any trigger job improvement feels like a throw in, unless someone had any experience where it was more or less exactly the same as factory.

Got plenty of 38 in my cabinet for one of my lever actions already anyway

 

[TAC]

Not so much a money issue at all as to the $50. I do like the idea of a stainless steel cylinder over the long term for the few extra bucks, at that point any trigger job improvement feels like a throw in, unless someone had any experience where it was more or less exactly the same as factory.

Got plenty of 38 in my cabinet for one of my lever actions already anyway

The regular black 442 has a "blackened" stainless steel cylinder.

 

[Ranger514]

An Airweight 442 or 642 are the most economical when it comes to SD. I prefer steel frames myself. My personal pocket carry is an older Mod. 60 snubby, cuz it manages recoil well with .38 Special. For sheer fun, I love plinking and target shooting with a pre-lock .22 LR, Mod. 63 with a 4-inch barrel. Not sure what level of experience you have with revolvers, but the Js have a notorious heavy double action trigger, but a sweet single action. If you haven't shot snubbies, you might prefer longer barrels with a longer sight radius. If you haven't done so, I might suggest that you borrow a friends, or rent some J frames at a gun range to get the feel for what you prefer. Good luck!

 

[Targets Guy]

My first J frame was a 638-3.



Very happy with it.

 

[Targets Guy]

But I finally put new shoes on it and like it better now.

 

[barristerr]

The regular black 442 has a "blackened" stainless steel cylinder.

My understanding was that the regular 442 was carbon steel, which can rust, whereas the stainless steel of the 442 PC, will not.

It's certainly splitting hairs, but I believe they are different materials from standard to PC as opposed to just some coloring.

 

[Frank V]

My understanding was that the regular 442 was carbon steel, which can rust, whereas the stainless steel of the 442 PC, will not.

It's certainly splitting hairs, but I believe they are different materials from standard to PC as opposed to just some coloring.

Actually stainless can rust but it is WAY more resistant to rusting than regular stee.