Adjusting the bullet seating die?

amheck

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Hi all, beginner here - I have a Lee Classic Turret and the 38/357 4 die Lee set. I have the dies adjusted for 158 flat nose plated bullets.

I'm a little confused on how I should adjust the die to go to different bullets. For instance, I have some 148gr DEWC, where because they sit flush with the end of the casing, I'm guessing I'll have some pretty significant adjustment to do?

When we first set up the die for the 158gr, my uncle was over with many years reloading experience. We installed the die according to the directions in the die set directions. Reading a little more now, all of the adjustment comes from the adjustment knob, rather than raising and lowering the whole die?

So can you guide me on how exactly I'll want to proceed to get set up to load the wadcutters? Is it just trial and error? I keep turning in the adjustment screw until the wadcutter is flush with the end of the case? Then what's the easiest way to get back to my original adjustment when I want to load more 158gr?

If there a generic setup procedure that you use for all new bullet weight and types, I'd be happy to hear. Maybe that's the track I need to be on.

thanks!
 
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Yep, turn the adjustment screw / knob until the bullet is seated to the depth you want. Before you do, load a dummy round with a 158 grain bullet. When you want to go back to loading that combo again, back out your seating stem, put your dummy round in the press, lower the handle, then lower the seating adjustment until it touches the bullet. It is now set to begin seating the 158's. I always make a dummy round of each bullet I use to aid in quick seating adjustment when switching bullets.

Larry
 
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I will be getting back into reloading soon after a 25 year laps,So a GREAT question. What I also read on site here I believe is some people make a dummy round for each bullet type and mark them, So what you change your bullet style it make re adjustment a little easier ! And of course re measure your dummy round in case you pressed the bullet in too far during a set up. Hope I explained it right
 
Back the die body out one turn so you don't crimp while adjusting bullet depth.Once you've adjusted the seating stem to seat the bullet where you want it,back the stem out a few turns,lower the round and screw the die body back down.Raise the round back into the die and screw the stem down until it touches the bullet.Make a dummy round for each different style of bullet and the adjustments will go quickly
 
***EDIT****

To avoid confusion my comment refers to a 3 die set (seat/crimp one step). I missed the part where the OP mentioned he has a 4 die set (seat/crimp in a separate step). Reading these posts on my small phone has its disadvantages. :o


Back the die body out one turn so you don't crimp while adjusting bullet depth.Once you've adjusted the seating stem to seat the bullet where you want it,back the stem out a few turns,lower the round and screw the die body back down.Raise the round back into the die and screw the stem down until it touches the bullet.Make a dummy round for each different style of bullet and the adjustments will go quickly

This! Backing out the die a turn is necessary the first time you do this as you will be turning in the seating punch little by little until the bullet is at the desired depth. Doing this with a crimped round could get ugly. ;) Once you do this for a bullet combo you haven't done before the dummy round will work for the next time without backing out the die.
 
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Here's the way I adjust my seating die.. First I screw the die down till it contacts the case mouth with the crimp ring in the die. Then back it off a turn or two. Then take a charged case and start a bullet in. keep pulling the handle while turning in the stem till I end up with required depth. Then I back off the seating stem a ways so it will not contact the bullet. Then screw the seating die down till I get the proper crimp. Lastly, with the cartridge up in the die and press handle pulled down I screw the seating stem back in till it makes contact with the bullet again. My seating die is now ready to seat and crimp with one pull of the lever.
 
Ask yourself, why does it get ugly to change depth once the crimp is set? If the crimp doesn't go into the crimp ring on the bullet just as the correct depth is reached, the cartridge lip will dig into the bullet, shaving lead (or bronze) and greatly increasing the strain on the cartridge wall, often causing buckling.

It is for this reason I, and many others, seat and crimp in two separate steps, preferably with a second die reserved from crimping. It is much easier to adjust each separately, and very little force is needed to complete the operation. It is also highly tolerant of minor variations in case length. It is standard practice to separate these operations on progressive presses.
 
First, forget what most have said above, they obviously missed the fact you have a 4-die set!!!!! Take advantage of this and seat and crimp in two steps.

To adjust the seating die place a sized case in the shell holder and raise the ram all the way. Then:

1) Screw the seater die into the press until the crimp shoulder contacts the case mouth Then back off the die body 1/2 turn, no more, and turn the lock ring down against the press head. You never have to worry about adjusting the seater body again!

2) Raise the seater stem all the way up. Place a sized and charged case with a bullet in the shell holder and raise the ram all the way. Turn the seater stem down until it contacts the bullet then lower the ram and turn the seater stem down the distance from the bullet base to the cannellure, raise the ram to seat the bullet then check seating. Adjust the seater stem 1/2 turn at a time until the case mouth is where you desire it relative to the cannellure, then lock the seating stem and you are done. Forget dummy rounds, as long as you use the same bullet all you need to do is screw the die into the press and start seating bullets.

3) Crimping. The Lee Carbide Factory Crimp die you have is excellent. To adjust it raise the press ram all the way. Screw the die body into the press until it contacts the shell holder then back off 1/4 turn and set the lock ring. Raise the crimp adjuster plug enough you are sure the crimp ring won't contact the case mouth, Insert a loaded case into the shell holder, raise the ram all the way and turn the adjuster down until the crimp ring bottoms out on the case mouth. Lower the ram slightly and turn the adjuster down 1/2 turn and try the crimp. Adjust by 1/4 turn steps until you have the desired amount of crimp.

You're done! Really much simpler than it sounds. It is so simple that dummy cartridges are really a waste of time.

No harm if you really want to use dummies, but really no advantage. It isn't too bad if you only load 2-3 cartridges and 2-3 bullets in each, but if you load some 75 different cartridges as I do I think you can see how cumbersome having several different dummies for each could rapidly reach several hundred dummies! It would take longer finding the right one than simply adjusting the dies.
 
Reloading for large caliber expensive ammo should be done with care. Having to reset and recheck the equipment is a check on making unnecessary and possibly costly mistakes.

My Weatherby Mark V in 30-378 factory ammo costs about $6 per cartridge. I go slow and make sure nothing is off when reloading this expensive ammo and rifle.
 
First, forget what most have said above, they obviously missed the fact you have a 4-die set!!!!!

Guilty.....

The dummy rounds are also more helpful when seated and crimped in the same step. And as noted, with just a few calibers.
 
Reloading for large caliber expensive ammo should be done with care. Having to reset and recheck the equipment is a check on making unnecessary and possibly costly mistakes.

My Weatherby Mark V in 30-378 factory ammo costs about $6 per cartridge. I go slow and make sure nothing is off when reloading this expensive ammo and rifle.

The fact the gun and ammo are expensive should have nothing to do with how much care you take in crafting your ammo. You should exercises a high degree of care any time you load ammo. After all, 30-378 ammo may be expensive but your eyes and body parts are priceless.
 
Why is it hard?

Back out the seating die adjustment and get out the calipers. Shorten until you get the desired result. You did remember to record the OAL of your favorite loads, right?

Periodically check your seating die for a buildup of lube and crud, and you're good to go.
 
If you are going to use a wide variety of bullet types you'll find it VERY useful to have multiple bullet seating dies. Because the time involved in constantly adjusting dies is time you'll never get back. I currently have 5 dies for 357M/38 Special seating bullets and two of the Lee Factory Crimp Dies because I kept forgetting that spacer ring.
 
OK. First off, I get the crimp process when using the seating die. I also get the process of using the 4 die set.

Question; (and this has been annoying me for some time) when using the seating die to crimp, doesn't it stand to reason that the bullet is being seated (still being pushed into the case) while the crimp is being made? If you're using bullets without cannelures, is there not some shaving and deformation of the case inevitable with these two things happening simultaneously?
 
OK. First off, I get the crimp process when using the seating die. I also get the process of using the 4 die set.

Question; (and this has been annoying me for some time) when using the seating die to crimp, doesn't it stand to reason that the bullet is being seated (still being pushed into the case) while the crimp is being made? If you're using bullets without cannelures, is there not some shaving and deformation of the case inevitable with these two things happening simultaneously?



You might get a bit of shaving with soft lead bullets,but as with deformed brass,it's mostly caused by going for too much crimp
 
The fact the gun and ammo are expensive should have nothing to do with how much care you take in crafting your ammo. You should exercises a high degree of care any time you load ammo. After all, 30-378 ammo may be expensive but your eyes and body parts are priceless.

When I shot in pistol competition, I would load 100s of rounds a session with my Dillon. Speed and quantity of 9mm and 45ACP. With the 500 and the expensive rifles it's about quality.
 
OK. First off, I get the crimp process when using the seating die. I also get the process of using the 4 die set.

Question; (and this has been annoying me for some time) when using the seating die to crimp, doesn't it stand to reason that the bullet is being seated (still being pushed into the case) while the crimp is being made? If you're using bullets without cannelures, is there not some shaving and deformation of the case inevitable with these two things happening simultaneously?

Seat the bullet in the 1st step for all the cartridges. 2nd step, back off the seating plunger, and lower the die to perform the crimp and do all the cartridges again.
 
You can use a combination seat/crimp die for crimping only if you back off or remove the seating post. Another alternative is to buy a Redding Profile Crimp Die, which doesn't have a seating post, and produces a very smooth crimp without any bulge at the crimp line.

I've used a Redding die when adapting 3-die sets for use on a Dillon 550. This is in lieu of buying a Dillon set, or to use an RCBS "Cowboy" die set which works better with lead bullets.
 
The easiest way to readjust dies is with the old school dummy round. Once everything is adjusted to your liking , seating depth and crimp, make up a round without primer or powder, just the bullet seated to proper depth and crimped in place (good use for a berdan primed fired case) then keep it and use the dummy round to reset your dies as to seating depth and crimp. Beats any other way I know of
Gary.
 
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