29-3 cylinder stop spring?

[Frank Martin]

Smith & Wesson revolver cylinder latch and arm for timing

I order the regular cylinder stop from Brownells that is MIM . As far as I know the frame has not been filed on, so do not file it there, never. This cylinder stop should work just fine, and use the regular spring that is already in there. You might as well replace the arm that turns the cylinder also so the timing will be right, that is what mine needs, it should drop right in okay, that arm is what holds that cylinder tight also as you pull the trigger all the way back and that cylinder should be tight with the arm holding it and the cylinder stop also, my cylinder notches are not worn any, and that spring should hold the stop and not jump back out once in there, especially if the arm is against the cylinder also with the trigger all the way back and the hammer comes down, that cylinder should be real tight with the trigger back and as hammer comes down. That cylinder stop is a little tricky getting out, I push the stop down, put a little screwdriver down in there to hold it, than you can use a small L shaped allen wrench to put right at the botton of that stop in the gun , it will go under there and you can lift right up on it than and as it come up, watch that spring, get it up some and than use a razor blade out of a scraper, and put on that spring and pull it back and than raise it the rest of the way out with the little allen wrench you have under the stop. Put it back the same way you took it out, start it in there slightly, than use the razor blade behind that spring and just push it right down than, it will go in easier than it came out, you have to take the rebound spring and stuff out first, than take the cylinder stop out.

 

[Pisgah]

I order the regular cylinder stop from Brownells that is MIM . As far as I know the frame has not been filed on, so do not file it there, never. This cylinder stop should work just fine, and use the regular spring that is already in there. You might as well replace the arm that turns the cylinder also so the timing will be right, that is what mine needs, it should drop right in okay, that arm is what holds that cylinder tight also as you pull the trigger all the way back and that cylinder should be tight with the arm holding it and the cylinder stop also, my cylinder notches are not worn any, and that spring should hold the stop and not jump back out once in there, especially if the arm is against the cylinder also with the trigger all the way back and the hammer comes down, that cylinder should be real tight with the trigger back and as hammer comes down. That cylinder stop is a little tricky getting out, I push the stop down, put a little screwdriver down in there to hold it, than you can use a small L shaped allen wrench to put right at the botton of that stop in the gun , it will go under there and you can lift right up on it than and as it come up, watch that spring, get it up some and than use a razor blade out of a scraper, and put on that spring and pull it back and than raise it the rest of the way out with the little allen wrench you have under the stop. Put it back the same way you took it out, start it in there slightly, than use the razor blade behind that spring and just push it right down than, it will go in easier than it came out, you have to take the rebound spring and stuff out first, than take the cylinder stop out.

As the original post was 8 years ago, I sincerely hope the fellow has gotten his revolver fixed by now...