Help Needed! first S&W antique

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Just purchased my first antique! would like help with DOB, Value and any other tips or help I can get. this came in a hurry and I made a quick decision. Upside is there is quite a bit of blue left, action feels very tight,grips are great and number to gun,all other #'s there also. Downside is there is some pitting in bore,rifiling is all there and the bore shines,but there is pitting. some corrosion is also present in two cyl. holes.There is not enough damage to worry me about shooting it. Barrel states 38 s&w ctg. Serial # 212592. Paid $150. I knew condition going in. I think it's a .38 safety hammerless 4th.
 

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OP, the barrel hinge screw and pivot appear to be installed backward. Look closely at the witness mark on the frame and the witness mark on the slightly domed end of the pivot. They should be facing each other.
 
Mike
Great pick up. You don't miss anything

Walt
 
Clean it well, some Corrosion-X and 0000 bronze wool on the outside (that will remove the rust haze), a brass brush and Corrosion-X on the barrel bore and cylinder bores. If the cylinder bores are a bit rusty wrap a piece of 500 wet/dry sandpaper around the brush and brush it again. Swab it out, Lubricate the mechanics, then go have fun with it.
 
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Mike, you are correct its backwards. Thanks, can I switch it? should I switch it? I would like it correct. Want a shooter. Tell me anything else you can! Thanks again.

Find a screwdriver that properly fits the slot and turn out the screw about half-way. Tap the screw head with a rubber or wood hammer to loosen the pivot pin on the other side. Remove screw and pull out the pivot pin. Don't rotate the barrel in the frame since parts can get out of alignment, making it harder to install the pin. Now simply push the pivot pin in from the right side. Line up the two lines and push it all the way in. Replace the screw on the left side and you are good to go. While you have the pin out, add a drop of oil in the hole before inserting the pin to lubricate the hinge.
 
Mike Maher is absolutely correct on the pin alignment and placement. It is in from the wrong side.

If the strike on the pin and the strike on the frame are not aligned, the pin protrudes out a bit and can cause some odd issues. See enlarged photos one shows strike on pin, the other (the side showing the screw) has the strike on the frame.
 

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. . . well there were over a quarter-million of all models 38 Safety revolvers made from 1887 to 1940. There were about 104,000 4th Models made from 1898 to 1907. Your 38 Safety would have been been made near the end of the 4th Model run, but probably did not ship until around 1910. Standard 38 S&W ammunition made by major ammo manufacturers will do fine in your revolver.

One interesting tidbit about firing these and the 32 Safety revolvers is that there is a distinct break in the long trigger pull that allows you to hold the trigger just at the break point. The trigger pull on the 38 Safety is very long and quite stiff, so the break allows the shooter to hold the trigger until the gun is on target. Enjoy . . .
 
I'm glad you corrected my/your visual irritation. These pocket pistols are fun to shoot. A CAUTION though; when the revolver is cleaned after shooting, and the cylinder is removed AND REINSTALLED, lift up and hold the latch UP at all times while turning the cylinder. Otherwise the retaining nib will scratch the poop out of the cylinder and the value of the revolver will drop to the floor.

Also, as Sal stated "..and 0000 bronze wool". Never use Steel Wool; even 0000. ACE Hardware has Bronze Wool. If you can't find it just let us know; we have it.
 
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