Lube, do you or don't you?

I clean and lube after a range day. I use light machine oil for a final cleaning and overall lube then Slip2000 EWG (ExtremeWeaponsGrease) for the slide points...

...but thats just me....in Texas....couple hours from the coast!

@NewToGuns.....dont run your machine dry bro ;)
 
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I'm sure as hell not over-lubricating, but I do it on a regular basis. I do not lubricate the barrel hood though.

For almost all things lubrication I use Royal Purple.

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If you lubricate as the manufacturer states, you can't do too much. In the manual they state to use a drop on each of those points. This cannot be over done. Your drop may be larger than mine, but both are acceptable and won't over lube the gun.

If you dunk the gun in a vat of oil, that will over lubricate it. If you then drop it in a pile of dirt or sand, this will attract enough dirt to possibly cause a malfunction. Avoid these extremes and you'll be fine.

I've never seen a gun fail because it was lubricated correctly. I've seen many fail because they weren't lubricated.
 
I'm going to try and use the ballistol as my only lube but don't know if wiping it off and leaving that thin layer on the barrel and side is good enough?

I believe it will...assuming you also put a drop on the points recommended by S&W (see your owner's manual.)
 
If you lubricate as the manufacturer states, you can't do too much. In the manual they state to use a drop on each of those points. This cannot be over done. Your drop may be larger than mine, but both are acceptable and won't over lube the gun.

If you dunk the gun in a vat of oil, that will over lubricate it. If you then drop it in a pile of dirt or sand, this will attract enough dirt to possibly cause a malfunction. Avoid these extremes and you'll be fine.

I've never seen a gun fail because it was lubricated correctly. I've seen many fail because they weren't lubricated.

A firearm cannot be overlubricated. Excess will drip off, evaporate or burn off during firing. I've never seen a very wet gun malfunction, only dry ones.
 
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A firearm cannot be overlubricated. Excess will drip off, evaporate or burn off during firing. I've never seen a very wet gun malfunction, only dry ones.

There have been reports of malfunctions due to oil, or lube, migrating into the firing pin/striker channel. I haven't personally experienced that, but I do like to clean out the channel periodically, to make sure it's clean and dry, without lead bits, etc.

That's why I don't like guns that require you to remove roll pins to disassemble them...too much hassle. That's just me, of course.
 
I definitely lube after cleaning but sparingly! Where a drop of oil is noted in the owners manual, I place a small drop, then spread it with a small makeup brush to cover the area. This may leave a it more oil in the area but there will be no drips or runs. After reassembly, I open and close the slide quickly several times and then dry fire the gun a few time to further distribute the lube. I do not put any lube on my magazines. That does it for me. I carry a small needle oil bottle to the range to be used only if I happen to shoot a large number of rounds and the action becomes sluggish. If that happens I take the slide off and put another small drop on the lube points, reassemble, operate the action a few times and continue firing. That doesn't happen often since I don't normally shoot more than a few hundred rounds.
 
A firearm cannot be overlubricated. Excess will drip off, evaporate or burn off during firing.
People keep saying this, but I'm not buying it. You could be right.

I look at it this way...
Every drop of lube that squeezes out is wasted. It does nothing to reduce friction which is the purpose of lube.

There are secondary issues with over lubrication. Use way too much and it could cause handling problems due to the grip being slippery. Yes, I've seen that. Also, the extra lube dripping out can damage a holster. It will make the leather overly soft and then it won't hold the gun well. It can migrate into a bullet causing the powder to not ignite or ignite improperly.

So, I just don't like the phrase, "You can't over lube a gun." Sure, the jury is still out on the whole collecting dirt issue, but that's not the only problem.
 
I was shooting a full auto Thompson .45 machine gun. It was tight and jammed around every 7-10 round. The owner added oil twice. The second time definitely amounted to "over-lubrication". The gun ran full auto, but quickly the oil that wasn't thrown all over me was burned in a cloud of white smoke that made me look like Santa Claus going FA on his reindeer.

Lesson learned: use high temp grease in the right amounts and places. It produces the same desired functioning effect withou getting slung off and burning away.

Oil is for penetration to hard to reach places, or for parts articulation without high speed/friction.

You know you used too much and wasted it when oil or grease migrates to places it shouldn't be.
 
Recently, I downloaded the M&P Safety and Instruction Manual for M&P pistols. On page 34 it says this:

"After cleaning, lightly coat the metal parts, internal and external with a high quality gun oil. Refer to the "Lubrication" section in this manual for instructions on lubricating the firearm."

So you're supposed to do this in addition to the seven lube points. I'm wondering what metal parts this refers to. I can understand lightly coating the inside of the slide and maybe the locking block and cartridge guide, but is it necessary to coat the trigger bar, the sear or the slide stop? And I'd need convincing before I'd coat the extractor hook or the ejector.

Discuss.

(P.S. I'm with Dad_Roman on Slip 2000 Extreme Weapons Grease. It's a great, slick lube. A tiny amount goes a long way, and it does not run.)
 
I use Balistol almost exclusively for cleaning and lubricating with the exception of a bit of Lubriplate on the rails. There are as many cleaning products as there are guns and most are just fine but I settled on Balistol in both aerosol and liquid. Aerosol works for these trigger groups in some guns that are difficult to clean well. Go behind the aerosol Balistol with a can of air to blow out the excess from the trigger parts. I don't do the trigger application every cleaning...only when I think it needs it.

If I'm correct I believe Balistol was developed in Germany to be used by the military as a field cleaner/lubricant. It can be said that Germany did some horrific things with it's military in the past you can't say they didn't know how to engineer it!
 
Man, does no one use Hoppe's products anymore? I still use many, and also some of Otis products, mainly the spray dry lube. Have no issues with any of them.


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You definitely can over lubricate, but it takes quite a bit...commone sense should keep you from doing so. This being said, it is also related to the type of product you use. Thin or thick oil, dry lubes, pastes and greases...all perform differently and require different techniques and methods of application and use. I find that gun lubrication discussions generate as many opinions as car loyalties or pretty girls...heated debates abound and every opinion is correct...especially on the internet. Now to prove my point, I use Froglube and have had great luck with it when used correctly...let the games begin!
 
You definitely can over lubricate, but it takes quite a bit...commone sense should keep you from doing so. This being said, it is also related to the type of product you use. Thin or thick oil, dry lubes, pastes and greases...all perform differently and require different techniques and methods of application and use. I find that gun lubrication discussions generate as many opinions as car loyalties or pretty girls...heated debates abound and every opinion is correct...especially on the internet. Now to prove my point, I use Froglube and have had great luck with it when used correctly...let the games begin!
Frog lube is garbage! Lol jp. I'm going to ask you honestly, how long does it last and is it easy to apply? Why is it better than hoppes?
 
Frog lube is garbage! Lol jp. I'm going to ask you honestly, how long does it last and is it easy to apply? Why is it better than hoppes?

It is easy to apply. You don't have to worry about getting it all over...just wipe it off...no mess like smelly chemical and petroleum products. You can eat it if you wish, or put it behind your ears to entice the ladies. They sell it in oil and paste. I use the paste. Follow the directions and you should be fine. For long storage, use more and it will stay put, and protect from rust. It won't run off or evaporate like thinner oils, etc. For regular cleaning and lubrication (not storage), put it on, warm up the gun so it flows and covers (I use a hair dryer), and wipe off the excess. Hoppes is tried-n-true also, but I like the non toxic Froglube.
 
I'm going to ask you honestly, how long does it last and is it easy to apply? Why is it better than hoppes?
I've used Frog Lube a lot and am intimately familiar with its application.

How long does it last? Well, that's a loaded question. That will depend on use of course. If you're storing a gun, it will last many years. Just warm it up (place it in the sun) and wipe it all over. It will protect from rust as good or better than most other products.

When shooting, I've gone as far as 1,000 rounds without adding more and without loss of lubrication. How do I know? Because I could still see it on the gun.

Is it better than Hoppes? Better is an ambiguous term. Still, I like it better for two reasons. First, it's easier to clean up. Since it's non toxic, I don't worry about getting it on anything. My hands don't react to it at all and it smells good. The wife doesn't complain. Happy wife, happy life. That should be enough.

Secondly, it doesn't attract dirt or get all over your stuff. If applied properly, you stay clean too. Oil can get on things and stain them or ruin them. Frog Lube will not drip or run where it's not wanted.

To apply is easy. Start, by warming your gun with a hair dryer or just setting it in the sun for a while. Then liberally apply Frog Lube to anywhere you think you need lube. Let sit for 5 minutes. Now take a rag and wipe everything off that you can see. This sounds counter intuitive, but it really does work. You've left behind a very thin film of lube that is plenty. More than that can actually be too much for some guns.

After shooting you'll find your gun is much easier to clean. Use the liquid stuff and just put it on like normal, but remember to let it sit for 5 minutes or so and wipe it off. Seriously, it should seem like your not using enough. I can tell you that after many thousands of rounds, I have perfect confidence in Frog Lube and the method of application I just described.
 
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