Can you see which generation 686 it is on my high res images?

[SIG-P210-6]

Hello @ all, it's me again and the 686-3 6" is @ home now. ;-)

Here are some pics in high resolution. Just click the appropriate pic to enlarge it.

I got it with two grips. One is from Nill (first pic) and the other I don't know. Which one do you like more (visually)? I will use the first one, because it feels better in my hands.

It is a square butt frame. Do you know what this "199" stands for? Same number is also in the yoke.

And yes, it's really a performance center -3. But I think that's quite common, isn't it?

Please look the barrel entry part. Is it normal that the rim is fragmented/scratched that way?

That's the hammer.

And finally you can see the "magnum groove". What do you think, is it a 686-3 with a lot shots or still a lower number. ;-)

Another question I have is about the cylinder tolerance. When I try to rotate it, I see a tolerance of around 0,3 mm (estimated). Is that good, normal or weak?

The space between cylinder and barrel is also around 0,3 mm (estimated).

So...what do you think?

Thank you in advance and good night...from Europe.
O.

PS: Yes, now I need to clean it a bit... :-D

 

[RGVshooter]

All I want to know is what camera are you using?

 

[SIG-P210-6]

All I want to know is what camera are you using?

*hahaha*
That was my iPhone X and for the close ups a dnt cam:

[ame]https://www.amazon.de/dnt-Drahtlose-Nachrichtentechnik-Entwicklungsdigitalmikroskop-TFT-Display/dp/B006GE66VQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=ce-de&ie=UTF8&qid=1536617451&sr=1-1&keywords=DNT+DigiMicro+Mobile+Kameramikroskop[/ame]

Cheers
O.

 

[apollo99]

That's a nice looking 686, first the hammer, or the firing pin issue, a little pitted, but an easy fix. Just re-pin a new one in. The forcing cone is pretty rough, that can be turned down and redone by a qualified gun smith. The "magnum grove", that's pretty severe, probably saw a lot of light 125 gr. bullets with 296 powder. That can probably be massaged smooth to look a little better, but there is still plenty of meat on that top strap. The forcing cone and top strap issues should be dealt with sooner than later, a rough surface on those area would be more prone to cracking. Usually that's not an issue with the L-Frame, but why take chances.

 

[murphydog]

Thanks for the extra photos. The extra stocks are made by Pachmayr - never did quite understand the slippery wood on the back with the rubber on the front and sides.

The (7867) 199 is some type of factory code, probably an "assembly number" to keep initially fitted parts identified for final assembly.

The top strap groove occurs with a (relatively) few rounds fired; it generally will get to a certain depth and stop. The forcing cone looks pretty rough; is the rifled section of the nearby barrel heavily eroded? I'd be tempted to have it recut or smoothed.

Performance Center guns are not all that common and you have a nice one. Enjoy!

 

[ctxcummins]

Hello @ all, it's me again and the 686-3 6" is @ home now. ;-)

Here are some pics in high resolution. Just click the appropriate pic to enlarge it.

I got it with two grips. One is from Nill (first pic) and the other I don't know. Which one do you like more (visually)? I will use the first one, because it feels better in my hands.

It is a square butt frame. Do you know what this "199" stands for? Same number is also in the yoke.

And yes, it's really a performance center -3. But I think that's quite common, isn't it?

Please look the barrel entry part. Is it normal that the rim is fragmented/scratched that way?

That's the hammer.

And finally you can see the "magnum groove". What do you think, is it a 686-3 with a lot shots or still a lower number. ;-)

Another question I have is about the cylinder tolerance. When I try to rotate it, I see a tolerance of around 0,3 mm (estimated). Is that good, normal or weak?

The space between cylinder and barrel is also around 0,3 mm (estimated).

So...what do you think?

Thank you in advance and good night...from Europe.
O.

PS: Yes, now I need to clean it a bit... :-D

That is a round butt frame.

Looks like it's been shot quite a bit, with hot 125gr rounds, by looking at the forcing cone and the flame cutting. The forcing cone is a fairly straightforward fix by a competant gunsmith.

Usually flame cutting is self limiting. Meaning, it'll only go so far, and then stop. At least, I've never heard of it causing any issues.

The other set of grips are made by Pachmayr, and I never really understood why they made those. Wood and rubber doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me. I much prefer the look of the Nills.

Fantastic looking revolver! I need a 6" 686 in my life.

 

[AveragEd]

I need a 6" 686 in my life.

I have two 6" 686s, a -3 Classic Hunter and a -4 PowerPort, but I would love to have one like that!

Ed

 

[RGVshooter]

Fantastic looking revolver! I need a 6" 686 in my life.

Every revolver fanatic should own at least one or two 686's...

Call me nuts but my EDC is a 4" 686-6 that I carry in a Galco master combat OWB holster

 

[SIG-P210-6]

What do you think about the tolerances I described?

Thanks,
Oliver

 

[Tom S.]

.3mm equals about .012 inches, which is the high side for clearance. So long as it's a). accurate and b). not spitting lead, you should be OK. It can be corrected for a tighter fit but that's not something I would recommend a novice try doing. Also, make sure nothing (like your finger) is sticking beside that gap when firing - you won't like the results!