Home Invasion Prevention Suggestions

Judge Buckshot: these loads carry 3 or 4 000 pellets. At very close range they would probably do the job, but penetration might be a problem (as with .32 and .380 pistol loads). Rifling in the barrel spreads it out too much for lo ger distance accuracy.
Judge Slug: this is a 90 grain slug. So you have a handgun bigger than a 629, and it holds five rounds of .380 ACP equivalent?

When the grown-ups, i.e. law enforcement and professional security, start carrying the Judge, I'll start believing.
 
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Love the post about "turn at the place where ****** barn used to be". Although, given GPS mapping it may no longer be necessary. On the other hand, out in the country, the systems sometimes seem lost. I can recall being told "You have arrived" when the only thing around me was wheat fields.

OK, You don't want to be stashing armament all over the house. You're just giving any intruders an Easter egg hunt and arming them. Pick something you can have on you or within reach all the time and go that way. If you're really worried, a zip-lock bag will keep things dry in the shower. A little experimentation and you won't have to take it out of the bag to use.

Waaay back, the S&W Academy did a study involving a random selection of folks and various handguns. They found that .38 Spl/9 mm was about optimal for most folks. After that point, both accuracy and speed (over rated) of fire was compromised. My own experience as a LE instructor suggests they're pretty close. It's not good to have an exaggerated opinion of your capabilities. I'd suggest you trade in the .460 on something like a model 10/64, the .357 version or a good 9 mm semi auto if you're comfortable with that and can operate it and practice. Where you put the bullet, should it come to that, is much more important than diameter, velocity or trendy bullet design.

There is now a statistically significant data base on shootings by private citizens. Two in the chest seem to be sufficient, but don't depend on it. Have a backup plan and a back up to the back up. BTW, average range is around 5 yards, extremes are 3 and 27 yards.

There have been a slew of awesome, stupendous and revolutionary bullet designs that have been spectacular flops (except for enriching the designers and the advertising flacks). Until someone else does the Beta Testing, stick with traditional defensive/service ammunition from any of the major ammunition manufacturers.
 
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A DOG WOULD HAVE HELPED?

My grandmother woke up as usual one morning and noticed her bed headboard drawer was pulled out and things were missing. The intruder even took her flashlight that was in the drawer. She had no idea anyone had been standing over her while she slept in bed.
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Being that so many dog owners sleep with the dog in their bed
IMO grandma is lucky she slept thru the whole thing rather than being awoken to come face to face with the intruder. It could have been far worse for her. NOT SAYING dogs can't be a good thing, just that each situation & dogs are different. That pic of a big dobie in the front window IS A deterrent for sure. :D To barricade oneself "TOO" much with barred doors/windows etc. would feel like living in a prison & I'd rather be robbed than die in a fire, or from an ems crew being unable or take too long to get to me.
 
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The first thing that popped into my mind when I read your post was good door/window locks and a large dog. No sarcasm intended. Seems like you’ve got the weapon side covered pretty well.

May just be a geographic thing, but I’ve always considered a home invasion to be done by multiple people forcing themselves into your house when they know you’re home because you’re the target. No knocking or peering in windows.

100% A large dog & some reliable handguns/caliber choices along with the training needed, goes along way. Good locks, good lighting at entry points.
Merely having a gun means little if you are not trained in its use & skilled enough to deploy it safely. Never threaten, at some point your bluff will be called. Fwiw, neither of those incidents would he called a home invasion. Your initial choice already shows little training/knowledge.
Jmo, sell the big heavy 460. If you want a 45colt, get one. It will be easier to shoot & manouver with. Practice ammo can be really anything. The 45colt will be exoensive to practice with in factory ammo. You'll wany a good jhp for hd, another sticky point with the 45colt.
A better choice might be a 325 in 45acp. Lots of ammo choices, cheaper to shoot, just as formidable on target. Plus is with moon clips it will reload faster, certainly important in a true home invasion. For the wife, dump the snub, get a good 4" 357/38, feed it a good jhp std pressure load.
 
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My tried and true method of preventing home invasions: to live where I do. I could not imagine living in a place where I had to worry about that.

Doesnt matter where you live. Study crime stats, bad things happen in the most docile enviros. Better to have a plan in place & never need it. The days of not locking your doors are really over.
 
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My comment on the dogs is that smaller yappers are better for older or handicapped people. I would like to have another German Shepard but I also know my legs and knees aren't up to handling a big dog anymore. It is to easy for a big dog being playful to knock me off my feet, especially if I wasn't expecting it. The liability of owning a big dog is something to consider.
A man at work told me his neighbor was beaten up and robbed. His house was only house on the block that had no dogs.
My grandmother woke up as usual one morning and noticed her bed headboard drawer was pulled out and things were missing. The intruder even took her flashlight that was in the drawer. She had no idea anyone had been standing over her while she slept in bed.
Get a small dog or at least get an alarm that sounds off when any door or window are opened.
I also suggest a handgun with a grip activated laser. Put the red spot beam on the intruder and pull the trigger. No need to see or use your gun sights.
My minimal target experience shooting the Judge I will never own one for self defense. To each his own.
My night stand drawer has a .45 Kimber 1911 with grip activated red dot laser. I also have two dogs that know when a sound isn't normal.

Couple points. Small dogs are a huge trip hazard for old people. So while a big dog might knock you down, a small dog is likely to cause just as serious a fall. Dogs need to be trained, big dogs need more training.
Nothing wrong with lasers BUT, I shy away from things that rely on tech &/or batteries. Just when you need it, it will let you down. A laser also makes you not learn how to shoot. A better choice imo, pistol with weapon light. Still tech, but more useful. Training, develope your skill with your weapin of choice. Nothing beats that. With good technique & proper training/practice, you can get good hits without actually getting the sights on the tarhet at room ranges in darkness with just ambient light.
 
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This isn’t totally pertinent to this post, but here’s a piece of advice to those with kids or Grandkids in their home. Do not let them post on Faceplant or other social media anything about you or your property. Things like “We are taking a spring break trip to Florida. Can’t wait for a week in the sun.” That one got us. Or “My Dad collects old handguns. I’ll bet he has two hundred.” Might as well put a ROB ME sign in the yard. Our burglary they threw a decorative brick through the back-door glass, loaded our son’s pickup that was in the driveway once they had the keys that were on the kitchen counter, and drove off.
 
Nothing wrong with a Ladysmith... 3" 357. There are lots of 4" 38 / 357 former Police duty guns out there... well proven, easy handling... and economical to shoot & maintain. I'd recommend 38+P if you can handle it... Yes, I load my 357 chambered revolvers with 38+P 146 grain or heavier hollow points. 357 is too violent unless you are well practiced & have good hand strength. Try various grips... I'm fond of Hogue rubber "Monogrip" for shooting. My 4" M66 former duty gun still has it.
Trick guns really aren't significantly better. I'd use gun(s) compatible with hers. Your wife's Ladysmith is a fine gun. Imagine you might have to switch guns for some reason... interchangeable firearms and ammunition is a plus.
One of my shotguns is a 18 1/4" double barrel... while ammo for it is the butt carrier, as I mentioned earlier, I intend to go to a 4" revolver (ex-PD) next.

I really like the idea of an outside driveway alarm that triggers an inside light.
I would have motion lights on the back of your garage & the garage roof.

I dated a woman who worked at my LGS. I said something about blocking the view of the security camera while we talked... it was a fake with a blinking red light.

Before the days of solar lights... including my previous residences... I had banks of flood lights that could light the entire yard, barn & pasture. Some poor lost soul... maybe... wandered up my driveway. my dogs went nuts. I flood lit the driveway, tucked my service weapon in my belt, went out to hold my husky who was on an overhead run & wouldn't give the guy enough room to turn around.

A buddy has always had a dog... of a breed known to be aggressive. Someone got seriously bitten once... but he replaces them with another same. I won't get out of my car until he comes out. There's a lot to be said for having a reputation of "no place to mess around." Actually i know of several such situations.
 
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I am against shotguns for home defense. Most are low capacity. Most require both hands to operate, something you can't do if you're fighting off an attacker up close and personal, and what happens if you get an arm cut up or broken? No pump action = no working shotgun. Sure, you can get a semiauto shotgun, but good luck controlling it one-handed. Most people can't effectively take corners inside a home with a shotgun, either.

I'll take a high-capacity pistol with extra mags for multiple intruders any day of the week over a shotgun.

If you don't want to actually get a dog, you can still put a huge dog bowl of water, a dog chain, and some muddy work boots on the front porch, maybe a big doghouse in the back yard, encouraging potential intruders to just move on to the next house.
 
Here is another option.
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Made by Master Lock. You can find them online or some hardware stores.

It won’t stop someone completely. But it will slow them down.

See that long window next to the door? Smash it, reach in, knock away the bar and unlock the door (need a key, not a turn lever there)

In the house in less than 5 seconds.
 
I have posted on this before, and I am sure that a search would provide the same info, but ...

Fencing, as tall as you can have under your zoning, and certainly nothing under 6'. 8' is better if you can have it. Chain link, not cosmetic crud - you want to make the unwelcome stop as far from your house as possible. If someone can get to your door/window/wall without you making an effort to allow it, or if they feel welcome to try it, you're missing out. The gates must be locked at all times except to go through them, just as with any door or window.

Lights: timer, motion detector, whatever you prefer.

Camera: not a direct help, but if you can get a record of attempts, or probes of your system, the cops might get farther. Thursday AM when I went out to walk Teddy, there were prints near my house as if someone had considered trying to enter over the gates or trying the garage door. Other neighbors did too, and the majority of the tracks looked as if the person making them was trying to obscure them as much as possible in the small amount of fresh snow.

Cops: Make sure you have a good idea of the realistic response times, and if you have a regular district officer/deputy, ask to have him/her come by so they get to know you before the excrement is in the air circulation device. They so rarely get to meet decent people under decent circumstances that you might be appreciated, especially if you have good strong coffee and some pie. :D

Physical capacity is a major issue. I have seen articles about "old man guns" from BTDT guys. They are not looking forward to the day when a .22 is the best they can handle, but they have the plans anyway. The real world of ballistic performance, in which a pistol is what you use when you have no specific reason to expect a problem and a long gun is a better choice, can be trumped by your physical ability. Our next house will be single story, and not so big, in part for those reasons. (I'll be 60 soon, and am still pretty big and active, but time is not one's friend.)

Buy and read and re-read a copy of CAP - In Defense of Self and Others . . .: Issues, Facts & Fallacies -- The Realities of Law Enforcement's Use of Deadly Force, Third Edition (9781611636826). Authors: Urey W. Patrick, John C. Hall. Carolina Academic Press. While directed at LE specific issues, many of the principles about ballistic performance, the time constraints, and the like are the same. I am sure you can get it cheaper on Amazon or some other location, but even at full price, the investment in knowledge is easily worthwhile.

Dogs: I like dogs. I like larger protective dogs. Most of our dogs have been Rotts and Rott X. My life is set up to allow for them. Note my avatar - Bozo was a RottXFila and that muzzle was not for show. He took after the Fila temperament - loved us and his canine sister but HATED everyone else. (He did have some dog and horse friends, too.) Not all that big at 125 pounds, but strong, and truly dangerous. You might, with a really savvy dog person, find a breed that will suffice but also be within your physical capacity, but if you you do, that research will be a pain. I know some recommend the Great Dane as they do not need a lot of exercise. My impression is that a true protection capable dog breed will be outside of your physical capacity. An alert dog serving as an alarm might be as good as it gets.

Guns are the last layer, and hopefully the least important. One of the advantages of all the previous layers is that it will be easy to show that someone who goes through them will not be someone making a "mistake", but undoubtedly a violent criminal. Get enough training to be able to deliver rapid accurate fire with a controllable firearm. As noted, a .38/9mm pistol platform is about as good a compromise as you will find. In a traditional revolver caliber, I am a fan of semi-wadcutters at modest velocity and at the upper level of weight for caliber.

Given your description of your capacity, I am not a fan of the shotgun. It does have a relatively complex manual of arms, is relatively heavy, and with service ammo will kick a good bit. It is not a point and shoot area weapon, contrary to myth. (And slugs are generally the default, as I was taught in my academy.) In reality, a quality AR with good ammo, a sling, light, and red dot (Aimpoint) is a very good choice. Relatively light, easy to shoot, and among the least likely platforms to "over-penetrate" (an overblown risk, but not zero risk). Long guns do present a greater problem in close quarters weapon retention. Given your capabilities, you have no business engaging in hand to hand conflict with anyone over 10 or so. Anyone who gets through your door needs to be shot, and long before they can make contact with you. Where I live and work, no one would GAF at all about you shooting in that manner. Other places may not be so enlightened. Know your political and legal environment. (Reading that book and getting training allows you to articulate the risk presented to YOU by almost anyone, part of the process of defending yourself legally.) Don't bluff, or talk, or screw around - if they don't turn and run at first sight of you, you have a clear and imminent life threatening problem. Mindset is critical - you need to understand the nature of the offender and what you need to do to prevail.

As noted above, social media such as FB, Instagram and the like are not your friend. Anyone you know, friends or family, needs to have strict directions to never mention you in any way at any time. If they ever do, never tell them anything again.
 
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The video, btw was by an experienced adult shooter, shows why I will never own a Judge. Hype isn't what I depend on.
Like they say, go shoot a gun before you buy it is by far the best advice. If it works for you then have at it.
 
During our training, the instructor presented some “gun rules” that I wrote down. I’d like to share them with all of you here.
The 1st was what he called “4 primary safety rules”. They were: 1) always assume that every gun’s loaded; 2) never point any gun at anything that you don’t want to destroy; 3) keep your finger off of the trigger, and out of the trigger-guard, until you’re ready to fire the weapon; and 4) be sure of your target, what’s around it, and what’s behind it.
He also we should all be able to fire 5 shots within 5 seconds inside of a 5” circle within 5 feet. He called it a “5x5x5x5 drill”, or the “5 to the 4th power drill” (54). No, we can’t do it – yet, but we’re workin’ on it.
He also pointed that most home/personal protection conflicts are settled with 3 bullets, fired within 3 feet, and occur within 3 seconds. With that fact in mind – if the issue can’t be handled with 5-6 bullets, then 8,12,15, or even 18, bullets won’t make much, if any, difference.
He also went into great detail about selecting a handgun for home defense. He said the criteria is basically the same for every person, but the result will vary based upon the person’s size, hand size, comfort factor around firearms, family dynamics (kids, elderly, number, etc.), domicile dynamics (home size, house or apartment, single or 2-story house, city or country, etc.).
The weapon must function every time – 100% reliability’s required. It can’t malfunction once in 25 shots, or once in 100 shots, etc. you certainly don’t want it to fail when you need it.
You’ve got to be able to hit the target's vitals (chest, and/or head). He said that speed’s wonderful, but accuracy’s deadly. He also told us that we weren’t Matt Dillon in a cowboy gunfight in Dodge City, Kansas.
The firearm we select should be simple for us to operate, and require minimal tho’t, and action, since we’ll be in a situation of great stress. Further, we must be thoroughly familiar with our particular gun, have absolute confidence in its operation, and read the owner's manual many times until we’re familiar with what is says.
Most guns used for home defense should be able to sit idle for long periods of time (perhaps, in some cases, even years), without use, or cleaning, but it must still function at a moment's notice. But, he also recommended handling it weekly, at least monthly, to remain familiar with the feel/weight of it. He also suggested periodic trips to the gun range for practice, to at least be able to hit the target, and to retain what the gun feels like, and sounds like, when discharged.
The gun should have a barrel length of at least 4", but no longer than 6½", for balance retention, sight radius, and ballistic efficiency. Snub-nose guns are harder to handle even for experiences shooters. Beginners/novices will encounter problems that may be too much for them to handle, to the point that they may not practice with it, and make the occasion of having to use it in an emergency too dangerous for themselves.
The cartridge selected for home defense should be of sufficient caliber, and stopping power, factory loaded, affordable, and available. We should select a cartridge with sufficient power to get the job done, but no more. We’ll probably be shooting indoors, in the dark, so we should try to select ammunition that’ll minimize muzzle flash, recoil/muzzle flip, and noise, as much as possible, so we can maintain maximum control of the gun.
Above all, the weapon must be safe for our self, and others. He stressed that we have the moral right to defend our home, and our family, but also a moral obligation to not endanger any innocent bystanders while so doing.

Dockmurgw,
That’s one of prime reasons we’re returning to the mid-west.
WRMoore,
You sound like a researcher. Our decisions were based upon empirical research (which is what I spent the majority of my healthcare career doing (epidemiology)). My wife isn’t at all comfortable with an auto-loader, and I just don’t care for them. Revolvers are simpler, so that’s why I focused on them.
Kanewpadle,
Thanx . . .
Fredj338,
Right . . .
Flagman1776,
Good points . . .
500SNW,
Excellent video!!! His closing statement really sums it up – [sic] use what we’re comfortable with. Granted, at the distances that Paul Harrell demonstrated – not so good, but when considering the probable shooting distances we’re talking about – 15±’ vs 10-25 yards, the Taurus Judge should be fine.
LPD256, Doug M,
Neither of us engages in social media, unless this site can be considered as such. We don’t understand why anyone would be interested in what kind of sandwich we’re having for lunch. Just sayin’ . . .

Again, and as usual, we’ve been receiving great input/replies, and we greatly appreciate everyone taking the time and effort to do so. Many thanks to all . . . .
 
See that long window next to the door? Smash it, reach in, knock away the bar and unlock the door (need a key, not a turn lever there)

In the house in less than 5 seconds.

See that wall to the left of the door? Unless there is brick outside, a crowbar will pull off the siding and crash through the sheet rock in a bit more than 5 seconds.

Houses are not built for security. They are easy to get into.

The principal method of invaders is to kick in the front door. A burglar bar will slow them down. It will not stop them. It is not possible to stop them.
 
See that long window next to the door? Smash it, reach in, knock away the bar and unlock the door (need a key, not a turn lever there)

In the house in less than 5 seconds.

Dude, use your imagination. I got that pic off the net. For all you know the glass could be reinforced.
 
During our training, the instructor presented some “gun rules” that I wrote down. I’d like to share them with all of you here.

He also pointed that most home/personal protection conflicts are settled with 3 bullets, fired within 3 feet, and occur within 3 seconds. With that fact in mind – if the issue can’t be handled with 5-6 bullets, then 8,12,15, or even 18, bullets won’t make much, if any, difference.
The weapon must function every time – 100% reliability’s required. It can’t malfunction once in 25 shots, or once in 100 shots, etc. you certainly don’t want it to fail when you need it.
You’ve got to be able to hit the target's vitals (chest, and/or head). He said that speed’s wonderful, but accuracy’s deadly. He also told us that we weren’t Matt Dillon in a cowboy gunfight in Dodge City, Kansas.
The firearm we select should be simple for us to operate, and require minimal tho’t, and action, since we’ll be in a situation of great stress. Further, we must be thoroughly familiar with our particular gun, have absolute confidence in its operation, and read the owner's manual many times until we’re familiar with what is says.

The gun should have a barrel length of at least 4", but no longer than 6½", for balance retention, sight radius, and ballistic efficiency. Snub-nose guns are harder to handle even for experiences shooters. Beginners/novices will encounter problems that may be too much for them to handle, to the point that they may not practice with it, and make the occasion of having to use it in an emergency too dangerous for themselves.
The cartridge selected for home defense should be of sufficient caliber, and stopping power, factory loaded, affordable, and available. We should select a cartridge with sufficient power to get the job done, but no more. We’ll probably be shooting indoors, in the dark, so we should try to select ammunition that’ll minimize muzzle flash, recoil/muzzle flip, and noise, as much as possible, so we can maintain maximum control of the gun.
Above all, the weapon must be safe for our self, and others. He stressed that we have the moral right to defend our home, and our family, but also a moral obligation to not endanger any innocent bystanders while so doing.

Again, and as usual, we’ve been receiving great input/replies, and we greatly appreciate everyone taking the time and effort to do so. Many thanks to all . . . .
Some of what your instructor tells you is valid, but preparing for the average leaves you unpreoared for something more. The statistics of avg gunfights does NOT aplly to a serious home invasion imo. It is fast, multiple attackers, if really serious, they are armed as well. While a revo is a good tool for the so called avg fight of 3rds in 3sec at 3yd, it will come up woefully short if your attackers are multiple & you are not practiced & have not developed reqd skills.
What does that mean? Well 5x5x5 is a nice slow speed drill, it isnt prepping you for a fight across a room with likely multiple attackers. Yes accuracy is final but delivered slower than the fight speed, you still come up short. Its always been a balance of speed & accuracy, since the first gunfights.
You need to practice dry, no ammo, often, once a week is a min. Then once a month live, someplace you can shoot & move. Flat range drills are marginally effective, you wont have the luxury of that in a real fight. Just things to keep in mind as you move forward with this. Speed. Accuracy & power, shoot & move, repeat.
 
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You've got some good info so far with the dog, motion detector lights, alarms, reinforced jams, dead bolt locks with 1 inch throw, peep hole door and also consider your landscaping around the house.
Is it so over grown or crowded that it gives cover to a bad guy approaching, parking or walking around your home? Bad guys hate to be lite up and in the open.
Make it look like someone's home by keeping some indoor lights on instead of sitting in the dark. A dog dish and some kids toys in sight as you approach the home makes it appear others live there besides just you and the wife. When gone out in the evening, leave inside lights on and a radio or TV going to make it looks like someone's there.
I like the idea of the motion detector lights with alert. I'll have to check those out myself. Good luck.
 
Some of what your instructor tells you is valid, but preparing for the average leaves you unpreoared for something more.

There is only so much you can practically prepare for. I will spend no time preparing for the obscure.

If the 82nd Airborne, or the 1st Armored Division come after me, I will not prevail.

If everything goes well, I might handle a dozen. I can't handle 50. We must each decide at what level we are going to prepare. We are all responsible for our own salvation.

Just having a gun puts you ahead of most. DrDoctor doesn't need to become a high speed, low drag operator.
 
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