Model 12-2 Nickel -Rough...

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So I was in a local pawn shop today, and saw this abused (?) nickel 12-2. I don't own a round butt snub 12 so why not. It's rough, and I'm being kind, the nickel is in very bad condition, but mechanically it's very solid, and has matching grips. Diamond delete on the grips, and 'D' prefix SN says it's 1968 or later. It has the 'N' stamp on the cylinder, so it came from Smith this way. $325 out the door, certainly not a great price, but not too bad either I guess.

My question is this, looks like there is nothing that can be done for the nickel finish, too far gone, so should I think about having it refinished? I've done business with Ford's, but their pricing has increased, $375 for a bright finish, plus $50 surcharge for the aluminum frame. So I'm $425 in not counting shipping, which ain't cheap these days. I've been told that S&W won't do nickel refinishing any longer, so that's probably not an option.

Maybe I just answered my own question...but appreciate any comments.
 

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A little elbow grease and some flitz or semi-chrome
would do it wonders.
Clean it up shoot it and pack it.

That model makes a great carry gun.
DSC00300-zpsrja4rh6l.jpg
 
Congrats Danny!

A soft cloth, Flitz Polish (or maybe Mother's Mag Polish as Babysitr suggested), and a few hours watching something mindless (tomorrow night's debate comes to mind).

You won't make it look like a redo, but you'll likely improve its appearance enough to convince you not to call Fords.

One guy's opinion.
 
Cerakote it! I have an old .32 hand ejector that was ugly but mechanically nice. Its now quite a shooter and looks good. $100 for the revolver and $100 to have it cerakoated. :)
 

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I can't see pouring another $400+ in it. I agree with the others to clean it up the best you can and shoot it.
 
Congrats Danny!

A soft cloth, Flitz Polish (or maybe Mother's Mag Polish as Babysitr suggested), and a few hours watching something mindless (tomorrow night's debate comes to mind).

You won't make it look like a redo, but you'll likely improve its appearance enough to convince you not to call Fords.

One guy's opinion.

Hmmm, can you hear the little squeaky wheels turning, the cylinder and barrel will likely polish out nicely with some effort, the frame is pretty bad, but maybe cerakote or duracoat the frame...who knows?

See what you started, you've created a monster 👿.😂
 
Hmmm, can you hear the little squeaky wheels turning, the cylinder and barrel will likely polish out nicely with some effort, the frame is pretty bad, but maybe cerakote or duracoat the frame...who knows?

See what you started, you've created a monster 👿.😂

I "get" your intent!

Too funny.

Have a bit of fun.
 
Cerakote it! I have an old .32 hand ejector that was ugly but mechanically nice. Its now quite a shooter and looks good. $100 for the revolver and $100 to have it cerakoated. :)

That's a very nice job with the cerakote, $100 bucks is a great price for that IMHO. If you don't mind, did you do that yourself or have it done? And did you strip it yourself?

I think I could do the coating (maybe?), but the stripping (without removing the barrel) sounds tricky. The reason I ask is I polished the cylinder and barrel, little if any damage to either and they came out nice. That said, if I could create a pinto carry gun for $100 or so I might consider that option.

Thanks!
 

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I would do nothing but thoroughly clean it and protect it with oil or wax. Refinishing it is not going to increase it's value, but you can quickly spend the entire value of the revolver on the refinishing process.
 
Thank you all for the comments and the great advice. Sometimes you just want to hear from fellow enthusiasts what you already know.

I seriously considered turning it into a pinto, since the barrel and cylinder are in great condition and polished up nicely. But that would likely mean removing the barrel to do it right. From what I've read, here and on other sites, S&W barrel removal is tricky, and best left to the professionals. Even then, warping or breaking the frame during that process is always a possibility, I would think even more likely with an aluminum frame like this Model 12. Heating or chemical baths can also change the shape of aluminum in some cases.

In short, there's too much chance of turning a mechanically sound revolver into a paperweight.

Much appreciated!
 
I wonder if any of the damage was done by Hoppe's or any other solvent containing a copper remover?
 
I wonder if any of the damage was done by Hoppe's or any other solvent containing a copper remover?

Actually I don't think so, while Hoppe's is known to attack copper, and if it ever gets under the nickel will break it loose. However, it's my understanding that S&W never used copper as a base for their nickel plated firearms.

While there is some flaking around the cylinder release, the worst on both sides is under the grips. They were badly blackened inside and out, maybe never off the gun, I'm guessing moisture got under them, but no way to know. I've polished the barrel and cylinder, the plan today is to settle in for some college football and clean away.

I'm sure someone with more knowledge of nickel damage will chime in soon, but that's what I've read.
 

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Thank you all for the comments and the great advice. Sometimes you just want to hear from fellow enthusiasts what you already know.

I seriously considered turning it into a pinto, since the barrel and cylinder are in great condition and polished up nicely. But that would likely mean removing the barrel to do it right. From what I've read, here and on other sites, S&W barrel removal is tricky, and best left to the professionals. Even then, warping or breaking the frame during that process is always a possibility, I would think even more likely with an aluminum frame like this Model 12. Heating or chemical baths can also change the shape of aluminum in some cases.

In short, there's too much chance of turning a mechanically sound revolver into a paperweight.

Much appreciated!

I agree, removing the barrel on an aluminum frame revolver is tricky and risky. You can quickly end up with an expensive paperweight.


I wonder if any of the damage was done by Hoppe's or any other solvent containing a copper remover?

Not to S&W firearms as S&W did not use a copper base layer for their nickel plated firearms, they nickel plated directly to the steel or aluminum.
 
Well, she's not gonna win any beauty contests, but at least the nickel chipping off has been stopped, and it's smoothed out and polished.

Took the side plate off, cleaned and oiled, it was full of gunk inside, smooth action and mechanically sound.

For the money, will make a great carry gun and not another dime invested.
 

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