Hi, my friend's 2 1/2" 66-1 was working fine. Then some light primer strikes. Then the hammer felt like something was causing too much resistance to pull back. Finally, with the hammer cocked, the trigger would not budge. It was locked up. Any ideas ?
Trigger jammed 66-1
- Thread starter Oakaged
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
Main spring strain screw backed out?
66-1 locked up
Thanks for your reply. That screw is tight. We removed the sideplate, the only thing we saw wrong looking was a semi circular wear mark on the inside of the sideplate that corresponded to rubbing a pin on the hammer which connected it to the sa/da sear.
It did not look bad enough to jam the whole action up.
Thanks for your reply. That screw is tight. We removed the sideplate, the only thing we saw wrong looking was a semi circular wear mark on the inside of the sideplate that corresponded to rubbing a pin on the hammer which connected it to the sa/da sear.
It did not look bad enough to jam the whole action up.
When was the last time the action was lubricated? It sounds like a totally dry action in the process of binding up. Either that, or a hammer stud broke. A look inside should solve this pretty quick. If you are unfamiliar with opening up a S&W, you could take a spray lube of choice and spray into the opening by the hammer and trigger. Let soak in a little while than do it again. Let sit for maybe 15-20 minutes then try to gently cock the hammer back and work the action.
Here's hoping it resolves easily, if it is a broken hammer stud, that is factory repair.
If you are totally unfamiliar with opening up a S&W, see lots of Video's on U-Tube, and don't attempt until you have purchased a set of "GUNSMITHING" screwdrivers and make sure the driver fits the screw slot completely.
Here's hoping it resolves easily, if it is a broken hammer stud, that is factory repair.
If you are totally unfamiliar with opening up a S&W, see lots of Video's on U-Tube, and don't attempt until you have purchased a set of "GUNSMITHING" screwdrivers and make sure the driver fits the screw slot completely.
Thank you. Nothing obvious from the sideplate open view. We didn't remove any guts. You may have something there. If the hammer stud is broken on the non visible side. I don't have the gun in front of me now. I think that is taking a trip to Springfield Mass. Thanks again.
Jason Demond
Member
If one the hammer or trigger studs were broken, you'd have known it the moment the side plate was removed.
Trigger jammed 66-1
Thanks for Your reply . Yes , that makes sense , it would habe been obvious. Actually, a few times, with the sideplate open, we could release the trigger and hammer. Cycle it a few times, trying to see what looked abnormal. Everything seemed fine, then would jam up again.
Thanks for Your reply . Yes , that makes sense , it would habe been obvious. Actually, a few times, with the sideplate open, we could release the trigger and hammer. Cycle it a few times, trying to see what looked abnormal. Everything seemed fine, then would jam up again.
OutWest50
Member
If the sear pin backed out just a bit (or any pin), it can cause significant resistance as you described. There should be no pin marks on the side plate. If that is the case, then you must correct the cause, because pins normally fit tight enough that they stay in place over the years.
How loose was the side plate when you removed it? If it was coming loose during firing, it could have caused parts to come out of alignment. Lube and reassemble to see if it's working now.
Also a few pics posted of the internals may help.
Also a few pics posted of the internals may help.
The sideplate screws were somewhat loose but the plate still needed the usual persuading to open up. Will visit there this weekend. Perhaps will get the hammer out and see what the underside looks like. Try to drift that pin back in. Only protruding very little but enough to gouge the inner of the sideplate. Going slow with this. Taking all of the advice with me. Thanks to all.
RevolverJim
Member
Does this particular gun have a trigger stop rod inside the rebound spring?
Unlikely but won't hurt to check.
Unlikely but won't hurt to check.
Hair Trigger
US Veteran
Just what are you doing to get the side plate off? If you do it according to S&W's recommendation, there is no "persuading", it pops off. Just FYI, you remove the stocks, remove the side plate screws using the proper size screwdriver, and take a plastic mallet, and with the side plate facing up, strike the butt frame a sharp rap from the side plate side. Inertia will make the side plate pop up. Definitely you do not pry on it.
Rapping the frame with something is what I would consider persuasion. I have never had one that just fell off with out some help.
Thanks to all who replied. There is no trigger stop in place, the slots on the frame and underside of the trigger are empty.
We did not pry it open. Used the tapping method. The sideplate was not loose. The screws were just a bit loose.
We did not pry it open. Used the tapping method. The sideplate was not loose. The screws were just a bit loose.
Hair Trigger
US Veteran
I wasn't implying the plate would just drop off when the screws are removed; there are too many people who own these guns that work on them improperly, creating function issues, and "persuading" the side plate to come off isn't how I see the proper method to remove it being called. My view of persuasion is encouraging something that doesn't otherwise want to be encouraged. Dislodging, to me, would be a more accurate description of removing a side plate, but I suppose it's just a choice of words. One of the things I look for when I'm deciding whether or not to buy a revolver are marks or indications that the side plate has been pried off. If I see them, I assume the gun hasn't been properly treated in other ways.
captaint
Member
Just as something else to look at, make sure the extractor star hasn't backed out. If that happens it will bind things up.
Just now remembering, that day at the range, upon discovering that the rear sight screw and the sideplate screws were coming loose, also the cylinder latch screw was loose. We tightened it up so that it was tight to the latch bolt inside the frame. However , that bolt was loose inside the track that it traveled in. The spring tension on it seems fine, but has more up and down movement than what would seem to be normal. Sorry for not mentioning that sooner. Again, I thank all who have shown interest in this problem.
